LA723 loader on L3830 performance?

willy1947 · Jul 12, 2004

I'll be sure to find out exactly what the dealer sets it at. It may be another week though. For general moving of dirt and such, it works pretty well. But sometimes I really have to work at it to get it to curl the bucket. Forget the old curl and lift technique when driving into a pile of dirt. Only one function at a time.

What is everyone experience in using the bucket to "get you out"? I've had the tractor hung up and tried using the bucket to help push me out. Didn't seem to help at all. A friend, who works on Bobcats, said a tractor doesn't have that much breakout force.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Dave

_RaT_ · Jul 12, 2004

My guess is that if you are not aided in moving the tractor via the loader curl funtion, you probably are a little weak on the pressure. I plan to get a gauge and pop it in the loader quick connector to occasionally check the pressure. The gauges are pretty cheap. A 5000 PSI gauge should suffice.

willy1947 · Jul 16, 2004

Just a quick update.

I have 42 hours on my tractor now (30 with the FEL). The loader doesn't seem to be working as well. The power seems lacking. Don't know what is happening. The dealer still has not looked at it, but suspects it needs adjustment and the filter changed. I just wish they would do it soon. I'm using it a lot right now.

Dave

_RaT_ · Jul 16, 2004

I have a high pressure Tee from Graingers and a gauge and bushing on order. I will post a picture of what I have. It will be a permanent fixture on the joystick. It simply takes a 3/8" tee, a 3/8" close nipple, a gauge and a 3/8" to 1/4" threaded bushing to do. It will give me a clue not only what the pressure is, but how it varies as things heat up. I just started my L3830 and there is no question, at idle it very easily lifts the tractor off the ground. The bucket dump, even with the toothbar on can do the same. Even saying that, I suspect my pressure is down some as it has been my experience, most new things seem to drop a little in PSI after a relatively short period of time.

willy1947 · Jul 19, 2004

Does anyone know how the pressure is adjusted? I'm not going to mess with it, but would sure like to know how/where the adjustment is.

Thanks for the info. on your gauge setup. I'm anixous to see it.

Thanks,
Dave

_RaT_ · Jul 19, 2004

I will be finding out exactly perhaps as early as today. I have to visit my tractor dealer to return a hydraulic fitting and will ask the what, when's and how's.

Patk · Jul 19, 2004

Here's how/where to adjust the Main hydraulic pressure for an L3130. See the attached file/image. It's done by adding a shim under the relief valve spring, but when my dealer did it he started by adding a 1/16th inch thick washer and it put the pressure at ~3000 PSI ...way too much above the ~2700 PSI max so he went down to a 1/32 inch think stainless washer. That dialed it right in at ~2700 PSI, up from ~2400 PSI.

If you're quick, you'll only drip out about 4 oz's hydraulic fluid.

willy1947 · Jul 19, 2004

Very nice post /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Where is the best place to measure the pressure at? How?

Thanks,
Dave

Patk · Jul 19, 2004

If you can get a guage plumbed up with a quick-connect coupler, you can put right into the loader control valve. Move the control stick and you'll see the pressure jump up and stablize in 2-5 seconds.

I found not difference in pressure attained above ~1800 RPM.

If you want to plumb up a Quick-connect 'T' to put the guage inline, that would also work.

Somewhere on TBN was a thread where folks where mailing around an inline pressure guage to anyone who wanted to check thier pressure...I think it was a NH thread. You might be able to ask whoever's at the end of the mailing list to send it your way when they're through....or just go buy/build your own.

TORQUIN · Jul 19, 2004

Patk,
Thanks for the info. Now I guess the question is what's it like getting those shims? Will the dealer sell them to a walk-in?
I ask because sometimes the dealer lieks to keep this sort of thign a secret, and/or want to void warranties if the end user messes with that himself.

Thanks,
Chris

_RaT_ · Jul 19, 2004

I should think pretty much any washer with various thicknesses would be fine. As mentioned, about a 3/8". It merely has to add a slight more pressure to the quite strong spring to increase pressure. My L48 had a adjustable regulator via a threaded screw which could vary the pressure right down to a very fine degree. I should think that anything close to ballpark would be close enough on the L30 series. To be sure, an amount just at or under 2650 psi would give you the proper protection. On the otherhand, folks over in the JD section talk of upping the pressure on thier hydraulic system by many hundrds of pounds.

Patk · Jul 20, 2004

I was being kind to the dealer when I called them 'shims'. I do believe he grabbed one out of a bin right next to other bins labeled 'bolts', 'nuts' and 'lock washers'. When the zinc plated washer was too thick, he grabbed a stainless washer that was half as thick. A quick tour of the hardware store and $2.00 should get you an assortment of 'shims'. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

_RaT_ · Jul 20, 2004

Thanks Pat, you saved me some footwork. I suppose the reason for designing the unloader in this way is to make it harder to increase the pressure and the simplicity of the design.

_RaT_ · Jul 20, 2004

I installed my gauge today on the loader dump circuit. The pressure was right on the money. If you desire a picture, let me know. I will be modifying it with a street 90 to read the gauge upright. Rat...

TORQUIN · Jul 20, 2004

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
OK, so I guess this is like when I want to increase the pressure on my Holley Blue pump, just remove the plug and stretch the spring a little, only with a little more precision. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Rat, please post a pic, I'd like to see it. Did you use quick connects for this guage?

Thanks,
Chris

_RaT_ · Jul 20, 2004

I think we have a margin of error in there of a few hundred pounds, not plus or minus, just plus. I plumbed mine in hard. It's permanent.

willy1947 · Jul 21, 2004

Post a picture please /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Sounds like this is could be very useful. I wonder how much the pressure will vary over time.

Dave

_RaT_ · Jul 26, 2004

Here is a picture I took of the gauge I set up on my L3830. It could easily be done on any of the L30 loaders. It's not fancy, a street 90 would get the gauge upright, but I find that I really don't read it much to really care. My pressure has been right on specification even after hours of running and getting reasonably warm. Total for the gauge (about $24) tee $9, threaded bushing 3/8"-1/4" and one close 3/8" nipple was about grand total of $40. Not to bad and if you question your pressure being below the specification, a very easy way to find out. I find out by using the dump circuit on my bucket. Once the bucket cylinders bottom out, it will give you full pressure. All the parts came from Graingers. NOrthern tool carries the same stuff, probably cheaper.

willy1947 · Jul 27, 2004

Did you lose much fluid with this addition?

Also, what fluid/where do you add fluid? I may go ahead and adjust mine. I'm tired of waiting on the dealer. Do you need to add fluid, even after adjustment? Someone mentioned you only lost about 4 ounces? What about air in the line?

I still have not gotten my manuals for my loader yet (sure would like to know how to take it off). I'm still waiting to pay for my tractor and get my toothbar too. I hit the 50 hour service this weekend. Don't know what the dealer is thinking. I guess he doesn't need the money. I've had the tractor over 2 months now. No payments, no papers signed, no nothing. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks for all the info!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Dave

_RaT_ · Jul 27, 2004

I did not need to adjust mine as it was right on the money. I can't imagine loosing much fluid at the regulator though. If it continued to pour out, you could simply remove the cap, quickly add a 1/32" washer or so, pop it back in and tighten. A quick check of the gauge and your either satisfied or readjusting. If I was within 100 PSI on the high side, I would leave it.