Landscape Rake Build

[GuglioLS]

Maybe nobody else thought about cheating the process Think I'll stick with the heat lamp option over direct flame though. I'll definitely give it a whirl soon. , I don't have the full required redneck gear so mine may not work as well
The stand add-on was a definite plus. Did you get powders from HF too? The colors look really good.

TLBuser - your post cracks me up, The redneck gear IS important or your results may vary. Thanks for the stand add on compliment, it really was a last second decision to make that. I'm sure glad I stood back to look and think a second before starting the powder coat process, I believe that paid off. The powders are from Harbor Freight, 16 oz for 3.99 made in India, based on the results it seems to be OK. I have no experience with powder coatings other than what you saw in the photos so I have nothing to compare it to. How does the heat lamp work? how large or thick a part have you been able to cure using that technique? I thought those two 25 thousand BTU's heaters would have worked allot better than they did. After babysitting those heaters for three hours, that's when I decided to try something radically different to make some forward progress. These parts are big and heavy, the A frame alone weighs in at 102 pounds.

Larry

 

[mjncad]

LOL - Mike Better check page 15 reply # 150, we were posting at the same time and you may have missed some really good close ups of the powder coating and my redneck powder coating "system". I sure am glad you brought up the idea of powder coating. If it were not for your suggestion I would have never even considered it, after reading up on it a bit, and finding out it's not really all that hard or expensive to get the best, most durable finish possible. Thanks! (Easy clean up too)


Larry

Glad to have made the suggestion. I don't have the space at the moment to powder coat; but I'm anxious to see more of your redneck oven in action.

Yes, powder coating tends to be thicker than paint, so it's common for some scraping and filing to be done to make the parts fit again. Or one can add extra clearance during the fabrication process to allow for the coating.

Primer is not as critical from my limited experience with powder coating, especially in dry climates like ours; but I have had some parts primed, then finish coated when I knew they were going to be exposed to long periods of moisture.

Keep up the excellent work.

Matt

 

[tlbuser]

How does the heat lamp work? how large or thick a part have you been able to cure using that technique? I thought those two 25 thousand BTU's heaters would have worked allot better than they did. After babysitting those heaters for three hours, that's when I decided to try something radically different to make some forward progress. These parts are big and heavy, the A frame alone weighs in at 102 pounds.

Larry

Well, the largest part I have done is a buddy's soft tail frame. Thickest has been 3/8 plate. I bought a new to me toy, a 1973 JD350B and had to make some bushings for the undercarriage which got powder coated. Time will tell if that helped with abrasion resistance.
Does your buddy have a plasmacam cutter with z-axis control? I have a heck of a time keeping the z-axis aligned.

 

[chumly2071]

Something else to try on the powder is to coat it, then heat the part as if curing, but only long enough to "gel" it. Then coat again, and let fully cure in the curing oven. This method probably won't work with the weed burner heat source though... If you can work out the process, this makes for a very durable finish, provided you have done your part cleaning/prep properly.

 

[J_J]

Here is some good reading about the different powder coat paints.

Spray Tech Systems, Inc. - Powder Coating Basics


Harbor Freight powder paint is Polyester Urethane.

 

[J_J]

Well, the largest part I have done is a buddy's soft tail frame. Thickest has been 3/8 plate. I bought a new to me toy, a 1973 JD350B and had to make some bushings for the undercarriage which got powder coated. Time will tell if that helped with abrasion resistance.
Does your buddy have a plasmacam cutter with z-axis control? I have a heck of a time keeping the z-axis aligned.

That plasma cutting system looks like a Plasma Cam unit. It should comes with a standard torch height control, and now has a new digital height control on the newer system.


Digital Height Control or Torch Height Contol is a new feature on the DHC2 Model plasma cutting table.

 

[GuglioLS]

....snip.....Does your buddy have a plasmacam cutter with z-axis control? I have a heck of a time keeping the z-axis aligned.

TLBuser -

Yep it's a plasmacam, just like yours in the picture you posted you have a plasma cutter? sweet . His has a Z axis stepper motor, it's manual or software controlled, and he fiddles with it allot. I think it's due to a combination of table and part warp-age. Do you use your plasma cutter much? What kinds of parts have you made? and do you use autocad or the plasmacam software to design parts? If I keep at it, one day I may have to invest in one. But so far I have a good gig going with them - Trade my mechanical and electronics skills to repair their equipment in exchange for metal and plasma cutting, it's a win win situation.

Larry

 

[mjncad]

PlasmaCam is located about 1/2 way between Larry and me and I've always wanted to see one in action and find out how others like it.

As for the Z-axis fiddling, I'm guessing a servo motor would be better than a stepper motor. I was looking at laser engravers a couple of years back when I thought about starting a small business with one. The unit I wanted to get used servo motors. They are more expensive than steppers; but are more accurate too.

 

[GuglioLS]

Here is some good reading about the different powder coat paints.

Spray Tech Systems, Inc. - Powder Coating Basics


Harbor Freight powder paint is Polyester Urethane.

Hey J.J. interesting read (short and sweet) Seems the Polyester Urethane powder I used from Harbor Freight is OK after all. Good thing to as it's already a done deal -coated and cured, I'm not about to strip it off. My climate is mostly bone dry, average of about 15% humidity or less year round. You said bare metal rusts in a couple hours, I have sand blasted parts setting around for two weeks now, and it's as good as the minute I blasted it. I have 30 year old metal setting outside unprotected and it's still got the black mill slag and not a spec of rust. I love the dry desert southwest. I've lived or visited all over the country and know what ~100% Humidity with 90+ temps are like, and what it does to metal, so I can understand in your area that bare metal rusts in no time at all.

BTW - Tonight I started working on your metal bending anvil, put a couple of hours into it. I will soon post pictures of my progress. Are you going to start a new thread documenting what it's going to be used for?

Larry

 

[tlbuser]

That plasma cutting system looks like a Plasma Cam unit. It should comes with a standard torch height control, and now has a new digital height control on the newer system.


Digital Height Control or Torch Height Contol is a new feature on the DHC2 Model plasma cutting table.

Exactly the one I have. If I didn't have to play with the z-axis all the time I would be much happier with it.