Lawn Striping Attachment
- Thread starter robertm
- Start date
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Gatorboy
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2001
- Messages
- 3,138
- Location
- Bel Air, MD
- Tractor
- Kubota M8950, Bobcat 873 SSL & Kubota ZD-331
Great job. Your lawn looks like a major league outfield. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I recently posted that I was considering getting rid of my B7500 because of the cut quality, but someone (I believe Alan0043, or someone like that) posted that if a man likes 90% of his tractor, he should fix the other 10%. So, I did. The striping attachment takes me to about 95%, and the tires will make up the last 5%... except I am in the process of trading my B7500 on a B7510... purely financial reasons only. Surely the B7510 will not mow any worse... only MUCH BETTER! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Robert:
Great looking lawn, the attachment does a wonderful job!
I wonder if it would work on my dandylions and clover? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
With a lawn that big, do you fertilize the whole thing? I have about 2.5 acres that needs help but I'd go broke spreading fert over the whole thing!
Great looking lawn, the attachment does a wonderful job!
I wonder if it would work on my dandylions and clover? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
With a lawn that big, do you fertilize the whole thing? I have about 2.5 acres that needs help but I'd go broke spreading fert over the whole thing!
This is the first year I ever fertilized, and the pictures were so close to the day I fertilized, it hadn't made a difference yet. I fertilized about 1-1/2 acres with a mix from the local Farm Service for about $40 for a big garbage can full. If I went Scotts or something, it would cost $300 for the same (or less) results. Now I mow twice a week as I read that you should cut off less grass blade length, and more often. That is may plan to get this farm-field lawn in shape. It seems to be working. At 1hr 15min to mow each time (on a diagonal), I can get some seat time, and some tranquility... not to mention the satisfaction. By the way, yes it works on clover/dandelion, but the results are better with grass. I have no special lawn, just field grass getting it's butt kicked into shape.
Sarge
Bronze Member
Been watching this post pretty close cause I'm planning on doing the same with my new lawn. Every one had good ideas and I looked at all the Links about striping and it seems to me that all you need to do is drag the lawn roller behind you and you should get the same results?? (Provided you don't have a million obstacles to go around)
Yes, you will. I pass this guys house everyday on the way to and from work. He drags a roller around behind him each time he mows. It may work well, but that's one thing I do not want dragging behind me as it can be a pain when mowing on diagonals, as there is sometimes more direction reversals than normal. Once the stripe pattern is "engraved" in the lawn, it is easy to always drive forward because you can always find a stripe "heading" in the same direction you need to go. Otherwise, you will spend alot of time backing up. Also, I find that depending on the time of day (the height of the sun) the stripes are faint, or really pronounced. Mowing during the mid-day, makes it harder to "find" a stripe.
IrTxRx
Silver Member
Does the material bind when you go in reverse?
Nope. The rubber flap just flips in the opposite direction, and the flips again when you go back forward. Nice thing is, no cutting into the grass with a "roller edge" as the rubber is flexible enough. The only thing to watch is the piece of angle. Although it is close to the rear tractor tires, it will "swing" out when you turn, and it can limit you backing "into" a ditch as the 3pt drawbar may hit the opposite bank of the ditch before the tires carry the tractor up the bank (in reverse only). If you go down a slope and the nose of the tractor starts going up and out of a ditch, the flaps just ride the contour and float.
Alan0043
Bronze Member
Robert,
Nice looking attachment. Thank you for sharing your idea. I miss not having strips in my lawn. I have gone to a different tractor for mowing. I used to mow with a Steiner that I am selling because of my back. I needed a tractor that has a softer ride. Your idea will give me what I am missing, strips in my lawn and a softer riding tractor. All this in one machine.
Nice looking attachment. Thank you for sharing your idea. I miss not having strips in my lawn. I have gone to a different tractor for mowing. I used to mow with a Steiner that I am selling because of my back. I needed a tractor that has a softer ride. Your idea will give me what I am missing, strips in my lawn and a softer riding tractor. All this in one machine.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 66,099
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Very nice! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Just an update for those interested in making one of these attachments...
I originally had this striping attachment bolted to the bar between the lift arms, which prevented me from using the 3pt quickly and easily for other things. The flap was always mounted on the tractor. This new mount has resolved any issues. In the attached photo, I put Cat 1 "top link" pins through the angle from the underside, and filled in with washers above the angle until I could just slide a hitch pin through the hole. The striping attchment's angle is pulled tight to the underside of the lift arms on each side. I did cheat and use large nuts as spacers below (as you can see) because I ran out of washers. Now, it all comes off real easily when I want. I will change the "top link" pins I used to regular Cat 1 hitch pins (threaded on one end) when I can find them. This will eliminate the pins wearing the holes out in the aluminum angle from the attachment being stressed back and forth when backing up and going forward. Right now my washers have the pins tight with minimal movement, but I used an aluminum angle, which is most likely to wear. My $0.02.
I originally had this striping attachment bolted to the bar between the lift arms, which prevented me from using the 3pt quickly and easily for other things. The flap was always mounted on the tractor. This new mount has resolved any issues. In the attached photo, I put Cat 1 "top link" pins through the angle from the underside, and filled in with washers above the angle until I could just slide a hitch pin through the hole. The striping attchment's angle is pulled tight to the underside of the lift arms on each side. I did cheat and use large nuts as spacers below (as you can see) because I ran out of washers. Now, it all comes off real easily when I want. I will change the "top link" pins I used to regular Cat 1 hitch pins (threaded on one end) when I can find them. This will eliminate the pins wearing the holes out in the aluminum angle from the attachment being stressed back and forth when backing up and going forward. Right now my washers have the pins tight with minimal movement, but I used an aluminum angle, which is most likely to wear. My $0.02.
Attachments
surfran
Platinum Member
That sure is a pretty cool idea. If I ever get a show lawn I think I may use this /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Of course since mine is mostly weeds, not as important, but heck someday.......when the kids are grown up.
dlockh4258 PM'd me and brought up an intersting question for those considering making one of these attachments. Should I make it the width of my mower? Shorter? Longer?
I originally considered telling him to make it shorter than 72" because of the lap you take with each pass of the mower. When I look at my "stripes" in the lawn, they are less in width than the 60" attachment (and mower) I made because on the next pass I cut, the attachment laps over the area I just cut. I was going to suggest he look at what his normal "lap" was, and cut that off each end of the attachment, or just make it that much shorter. I was going to cut mine off, and I believe I lap about 4"-6" each cut... minimum, so that is what I was going to take off each end. I'm glad I didn't.
I took a piece of paper and made a model to see what would happen if I made the striper shorter. It turns out it will leave "unstriped" strips between the striped rows, or stripes of grass that are not layed over (which makes the stripe), which in turn will make the stripes look ragged and not crisp and clean. Make your striping attachments the width of your mower decks. So what if the stipes you leave behind are less in width than your mower... at least they will be uniform and crisp-edged. By the way, making it longer will make the striped rows narrower yet because of excessive lap.
I originally considered telling him to make it shorter than 72" because of the lap you take with each pass of the mower. When I look at my "stripes" in the lawn, they are less in width than the 60" attachment (and mower) I made because on the next pass I cut, the attachment laps over the area I just cut. I was going to suggest he look at what his normal "lap" was, and cut that off each end of the attachment, or just make it that much shorter. I was going to cut mine off, and I believe I lap about 4"-6" each cut... minimum, so that is what I was going to take off each end. I'm glad I didn't.
I took a piece of paper and made a model to see what would happen if I made the striper shorter. It turns out it will leave "unstriped" strips between the striped rows, or stripes of grass that are not layed over (which makes the stripe), which in turn will make the stripes look ragged and not crisp and clean. Make your striping attachments the width of your mower decks. So what if the stipes you leave behind are less in width than your mower... at least they will be uniform and crisp-edged. By the way, making it longer will make the striped rows narrower yet because of excessive lap.
