Eric:
I was thinking that the rough running would be oil leaking down one of the guides. Or somehow the oil getting into the intake portion and being sucked into the chamber. Since it's not atomized, it's causing the popping. That might be why when it's revved up, it doesn't produce as much smoke or pop as much, as it's sucking in less oil at a faster idle.
Like you said, the rocker section is not under pressure, so the dripping of oil at a specific amount would remain constant regardless of rpm.
For oil additives, there are some that "block" cracks, splits, holes, etc. Those do work under pressure and start to build up an actual hard layer in that spot. There are others that are referred to as conditioners. That's what Blue Devil is; at the least the seal one, not the head gasket one. It actually helps to recondition the rubber seals by helping them to swell back up. And if you have a seal that separates oil/water, then you should use both BD's, the one for oil and the one for water, to get the seal repaired from both sides.
The BD for oil seals, not head gasket, only costs about $20. A lot more palatable than the head gasket one. I'm more willing to try that one.
arrow:
Thanks for the info. The tractor has been being worked harder than it had in the past (at least since we got it). I found out that it's operating rpm is 2400rpm. My uncles had been using it at 2100rpm. The extra 400rpm made a huge difference in performance.
- I don't think it's worn rings, liners, pistons as it was almost an all of a sudden type of deal. Possibly when the injector began to foul out could have caused a cascade effect.
- I've checked the oil, and aside from being dark black (getting ready to change the oil), there's nothing else really wrong with it. I didn't notice any diesel smell in the oil. The level of oil is within the hatch-marks.
- We only put in standard oil. I know that synthetic in a worn engine that has had conventional oil can actually be bad for the engine. The synthetic oil has smaller molecules and can't keep the passages full and under pressure. So only full conventional is being used. I'll be putting in a quart of Lucas Oil Conditioner in when I do the change. I like the extra stickiness that Lucas has and has done a great job in gas engines.
- I'm leaning to possibly valve stem seals; which I addressed.
At least with the problem coming from the top portion of the head, it dramatically decreases the cost of repair work. The parts are cheaper, and the problems are a lot less severe in nature (though, left long enough, could cause more severe problems; hence, i'm working on it now instead of waiting)
Thanks for all the helps, guys.
Kori
I was thinking that the rough running would be oil leaking down one of the guides. Or somehow the oil getting into the intake portion and being sucked into the chamber. Since it's not atomized, it's causing the popping. That might be why when it's revved up, it doesn't produce as much smoke or pop as much, as it's sucking in less oil at a faster idle.
Like you said, the rocker section is not under pressure, so the dripping of oil at a specific amount would remain constant regardless of rpm.
For oil additives, there are some that "block" cracks, splits, holes, etc. Those do work under pressure and start to build up an actual hard layer in that spot. There are others that are referred to as conditioners. That's what Blue Devil is; at the least the seal one, not the head gasket one. It actually helps to recondition the rubber seals by helping them to swell back up. And if you have a seal that separates oil/water, then you should use both BD's, the one for oil and the one for water, to get the seal repaired from both sides.
The BD for oil seals, not head gasket, only costs about $20. A lot more palatable than the head gasket one. I'm more willing to try that one.
arrow:
Thanks for the info. The tractor has been being worked harder than it had in the past (at least since we got it). I found out that it's operating rpm is 2400rpm. My uncles had been using it at 2100rpm. The extra 400rpm made a huge difference in performance.
- I don't think it's worn rings, liners, pistons as it was almost an all of a sudden type of deal. Possibly when the injector began to foul out could have caused a cascade effect.
- I've checked the oil, and aside from being dark black (getting ready to change the oil), there's nothing else really wrong with it. I didn't notice any diesel smell in the oil. The level of oil is within the hatch-marks.
- We only put in standard oil. I know that synthetic in a worn engine that has had conventional oil can actually be bad for the engine. The synthetic oil has smaller molecules and can't keep the passages full and under pressure. So only full conventional is being used. I'll be putting in a quart of Lucas Oil Conditioner in when I do the change. I like the extra stickiness that Lucas has and has done a great job in gas engines.
- I'm leaning to possibly valve stem seals; which I addressed.
At least with the problem coming from the top portion of the head, it dramatically decreases the cost of repair work. The parts are cheaper, and the problems are a lot less severe in nature (though, left long enough, could cause more severe problems; hence, i'm working on it now instead of waiting)
Thanks for all the helps, guys.
Kori
