Leaking Log Splitter Cylinder

[dougtrr2]

I have had my TSC log splitter for well over 20 years. Yesterday I noticed a small amount of seepage on the closed/welded end of the cylinder. As I was trying to verify that it was actually hydraulic fluid, I discovered a second pinhole leak that spurts fluid. So I have at least two leaks on that end of the cylinder, one seeping and spurting.

I am assuming I need to just replace the cylinder since it is on the closed end. Even if I were to have someone weld over those two spots, I wonder how many more are on the way. Any thoughts on repairs and sources for replacements?

Doug in SW IA

 

[WranglerX]

Guaranteed fix would be expensive, replace cylinder.... But My first though would be to try to have cylinder welded.... Experienced welder should be able to do this in a heart beat... Then keep fingers crosses they are the only problem with weld...

If you are replacing cylinder many places have them.... Northern Tool, Surplus Center, search for "log splitter ram"

Possibly something like this....

Double Acting Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Double Acting Hydraulic Cylinders,Hydraulic Cylinders,Hydraulics, 4" x 8" x 2" DA HYD CYL Brand new, PRINCE. Double

www.surpluscenter.com

 

[4570Man]

I’d have it welded.

 

[Doughknob]

You didn't say if leaks are on the weld or on the metal cap. Assuming on the weld, i second the weld repair. If on the actual cap area, i'd be scared something else is going on inside and want take a look in there instead of just welding.

Pinhole leaks are bad news - under pressure they act like a waterjet cutting machine. Hang heavy white rag over it if you repair it, to see if the spray leak comes back.

 

[ptsg]

Have it welded and it will be good for another 20+ years.

 

[wdchyd]

The right way to do it is pull the cyl apart, machine off the buttplate, tig weld the root and cap weld the outside.
If you weld it only on the outside only it will only be a temp repair cuz the crack will push its way out eventually.

 

[4570Man]

The right way to do it is pull the cyl apart, machine off the buttplate, tig weld the root and cap weld the outside.
If you weld it only on the outside only it will only be a temp repair cuz the crack will push its way out eventually.

Yes, but paying a shop to do that would exceed the cost of a replacement cylinder. Welding the outside will very likely last the life of the splitter.

 

[wdchyd]

No problem for the right repair shop if they are set up. This cyl was previously professionally welded and failed after a few months after the crack migrated.
Here’s the before, during and after of the right repair.

 

[dougtrr2]

I am leaning toward replacement. I had a welder come in to fix some seeping on my low pressure (<30psi) boiler. The location was awkward, but he had a very hard time getting is sealed. The leaks kept moving to the perimeter of his weld. Maybe it was just his skill level, but it does make me gun-shy.

I am finding it hard to find the exact replacement. I think I have a good Speeco number, so I will scour the internet now.

Doug in SW IA

 

[WranglerX]

Forget part numbers.... Go by diameter of cylinder and length and type of securing to rail and wedge.... Funny thing I found when repairing my DURR splitter, many splitters where made under contract from MDT... Same part numbers on many different brands of splitters....Only difference really seemed to be they were painted different colors, sort of like this week, 500 red ones, next week 500 blue ones, and week after 500 black ones.....

See link in post #2...

 

[dougtrr2]

Local hydraulic place gave me a part number and an online source.
www.magisterhyd.com Ordered the cylinder and received it within a week.

It is not an exact match, but very close. There were some minor issues hooking up.

It is larger in diameter, but the speed does not seem to be significantly slower.

The ports were about 1/2" farther apart than on the old one. On my old cylinder they were connected with a steel tube. Because of the expansion(?) bend in the tube I was able to "stretch" it a make it fit. If it leaks I will replace it.

It is 2" longer, but while it does reduce the length I can split, it is still plenty long for the wood I burn.

Because of the longer length, the wedge slide plate bottoms out against the end stop. The slide plate extends about 2-3" past the point of the wedge. I may just shorten it and see how that works. It would give the added benefit of completely splitting the wood, but have the drawback of creating a mini guillotine.

All in all I am happy with the replacement.

Doug in SW IA

 

[WranglerX]

The first thing that would put me off of using recommended cylinder is fact it is to long..... Second and third things are modification you have to go through to "make it work"....

But that is just my opinion....