Let's see some homemade 3 point ballast!

PEJ5 · Apr 1, 2020

Stan B said:
Here's my recently completed ballast. It's a 2ft cube with sixteen 60 lb bags of concrete, rebar, several disc brake rotors, angle iron and some other stuff. I'm guessing total weight is around 1300 to 1400 lbs. When I bought the tractor I had them not fill the tires knowing that I'd need ballast of some kind. It was kind of neat seeing the contrast between trying to scoop up dirt with and without the ballast.
View attachment 648686

Great job. Kitchen sink in there too?

I like how my tractor squats a bit and feels much more stable. Enjoy.

streamin · Apr 3, 2020

what is a good calculation on what you need for ballast? should you go 75% of your FEL capacity? Or does it really matter what you're lifting? Should it be somewhat the same as what your lifting or just a helper of maybe 50% etc.

WranglerX · Apr 3, 2020

streamin said:
what is a good calculation on what you need for ballast? should you go 75% of your FEL capacity? Or does it really matter what you're lifting? Should it be somewhat the same as what your lifting or just a helper of maybe 50% etc.

This is what came with my FEL for my SCUT.... Seems it would apply to larger tractors too..... Only issue is one needs a scales to do calculations, unless you want to trust factory weights...

A 400 pound (+/-) ballast box seemed to cure this problem when lifting a 520 pound JD dead Deere...

Dale

PEJ5 · Apr 3, 2020

streamin said:
what is a good calculation on what you need for ballast? should you go 75% of your FEL capacity? Or does it really matter what you're lifting? Should it be somewhat the same as what your lifting or just a helper of maybe 50% etc.

streamin:. So many options. Let me share my own observations.. My tractor data says it can lift 2600lb at my FEL pins and at my 3Pt. I made my counterweight/ballast about 1300lbs. I had it poured at the local ready-mix and they set the pallet and forms on my trailer. When I went to remove it from my trailer with my tractor pallet forks, it was a bit of a reach...about 3'+ out on the forks from the pins. My rear (loaded) tires lifted instead (pucker)!! I dragged the pallet to the back of the trailer (dangerous) and then I could lift my counterweight with the forks.
So... I learned that with ballasted tires, but without a counterweight, my FEL limit is about half the quoted amount. With the 1300# counterweight on the 3pt, 2' out, I feel much more stable with a load in the FEL or on the forks. I could/should have made it between 1500 and 2000 lbs.

I hope that helps.
View attachment 648998

streamin · Apr 4, 2020

That is really interesting, it makes you wonder how they come up with the 2600 in the first place, and the tire ballast doesn't help as much as I thought in this scenario. Thanks

PEJ5 · Apr 5, 2020

streamin said:
That is really interesting, it makes you wonder how they come up with the 2600 in the first place, and the tire ballast doesn't help as much as I thought in this scenario. Thanks

The believe the rating in the specs(2600) is based on the strength of the loader arms and the hydraulics/cylinders. It does not factor in the front to back stability. Some have commented that a good dealer would never let you off the lot without a heavy rear implement or a counterweight.
As for the tire ballast, I had mine filled from day 1 based on advice on TBN to newbie tractor owners. I do not know what it would have felt like and how it would have operated empty. I suspect it would have been scary and does more than I know. Ballast is not the same as counterweight - 1300lbs stuck out two feet behind the 3pt has way more leverage.

RBA50 · Apr 6, 2020

Ballast in the rear tires does help, but the pivot point for that weight is the front axle. 3pt counterweight on the other hand pivots at the rear axle, helping to unload the front axle while holding the rear down.

npalen · Apr 6, 2020

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/379539-counterweight-dumpbox-pics.html?highlight=
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...-earth-mover-ballast-box-dump.html?highlight=

The second thread is an improved version of the first with a second cylinder added.

streamin · Apr 6, 2020

PEJ5 said:
As for the tire ballast, I had mine filled from day 1 based on advice on TBN to newbie tractor owners. I do not know what it would have felt like and how it would have operated empty. I suspect it would have been scary and does more than I know. Ballast is not the same as counterweight - 1300lbs stuck out two feet behind the 3pt has way more leverage.

I had a previous tractor that I filled the tires later on, yes it is a noticeable difference and I agree it's not the same as rear counter weight.I did not fill my current tractor tires only because I wanted to keep the weight down for towing but now that I am more settled I am going to do it. I use my 1100lb boxblade as ballast now but I want something heavier and smaller profile. I may do the cement block type.

Notforhire · Apr 6, 2020

Much has to do with your particular tractor.

My JD 5055e with just loaded tires, no counterweight could carry close to 2,000 lbs.
My L47 TL with loaded tires and no counterweight struggles with two bags of groceries. (Not really, but you get the idea.)

The L47 is at it's best with the backhoe attached. I'm sure that Kubota engineers had that in mind when they designed it.
With that big counterweight it feels stable and almost never needs 4WD.

A friend has a Ford 4100 which has a swept back front axle. This design makes it very maneuverable as it effectively shortens the wheelbase.
It also makes it a terrible choice for a FEL. Besides being really hard on the front end, using the loader really required a HEAVY counterweight.
The 4100 is a well built, heavy duty utility tractor, it just was never designed for FEL use.