Let's see some homemade 3 point ballast!

[fruitcakesa]

After standing the M on its nose trying to move a ginormous boulder, I decided my initial ballast was really way to light so I added a rack on top of the original and laid in this former concrete pier that used to hold up a corner of my old woodshed [now reconstructed with new foundation].
I know ideally, ballast should be at or below the rear axle line but this was the how it mounted.
I figure it is now about 800 lbs.
You can see its partner laying behind on the bank

 

[WranglerX]

This is what came with my FEL for my SCUT.... Seems it would apply to larger tractors too..... Only issue is one needs a scales to do calculations, unless you want to trust factory weights...

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A 400 pound (+/-) ballast box seemed to cure this problem when lifting a 520 pound JD dead Deere...

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Dale

Umm correction, ballast box is about 550 to 600 lbs... Box is 4 cu-ft and one cu-ft of concrete is approximately 150 lbs...

Dale

 

[redrider16]

Umm correction, ballast box is about 550 to 600 lbs... Box is 4 cu-ft and one cu-ft of concrete is approximately 150 lbs...

Dale

this is my flintstone model 150

 

[i7win7]

this is my flintstone model 150

Hope you were wise enough to make it QH compatible. Wish I had.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Hope you were wise enough to make it QH compatible. Wish I had.

I'd be tempted to just remove the top link. Do you really need it? It looks like most of the weight is below the bar. Then you should be quick hitch compatible.

 

[California]

I decided my initial ballast was really way to light so I added a rack on top of the original and laid in this former concrete pier ...
I figure it is now about 800 lbs.

I wonder if you could use chains to lash on that concrete cylinder behind the existing ballast. If the chains came up from the outer corners of the existing ballast box and ended at its top link, then not all the cylinder's weight would stress the ballast box if that is a concern.

 

[V1BuzzBomb]

Quite a bit actually. I figured i needed space for some spare parts, tools and a chain since there isnt much room in the cab and the tractor gets parked at a down town account for the winter pretty far from the shop.
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There are a lot of great ideas here. So far, the barbell weights and this box impress me and intrigue me the most so far. This is really clever. I'm a John Deere guy with 110 TLB. I bought a BX2360 because for implements and compactness, nothing is close. For that beauty of compact size, to have weight inboard and in between the arms really follows suit for close quarter work. Fine Job!

 

[V1BuzzBomb]

The BX2360 I purchased I have not yet received. It's being delivered. It's a tractor with factory FEL/bucket. It's a clean low hour machine that I believe is all original. It has turf tires. I don't yet know if the rears are filled from dealer new.

I'm interested in suggestions for rear 3ph ballast weight. Let's assume centered at lower link outer pin.

 

[TomIre]

For those of you who used a 55 gallon barrel and a 3pt cross pin - how did you decide what height on the barrel to put the 3pt cross pin? I like the idea as it keeps the weight a bit lower but not sure where to put it.

 

[ns_in_tex]

For those of you who used a 55 gallon barrel and a 3pt cross pin - how did you decide what height on the barrel to put the 3pt cross pin? I like the idea as it keeps the weight a bit lower but not sure where to put it.

On mine, we put the pin about 3" above the bottom ring of the two rings on the barrel. Also near the same for the trailer receiver. This give plenty of lift height and can set it on the ground for park brake. Also, you probably want to move it forward of center of barrel (front to rear) to keep top link pin, not so deep into barrel. I think we moved ours, maybe 5" forward of center.

This is presuming you are wanting the barrel vertical.