Let's see some homemade 3 point ballast!

[PEJ5]

Here's my recently completed ballast. It's a 2ft cube with sixteen 60 lb bags of concrete, rebar, several disc brake rotors, angle iron and some other stuff. I'm guessing total weight is around 1300 to 1400 lbs. When I bought the tractor I had them not fill the tires knowing that I'd need ballast of some kind. It was kind of neat seeing the contrast between trying to scoop up dirt with and without the ballast.
View attachment 648686

Great job. Kitchen sink in there too? I like how my tractor squats a bit and feels much more stable. Enjoy.

 

[streamin]

what is a good calculation on what you need for ballast? should you go 75% of your FEL capacity? Or does it really matter what you're lifting? Should it be somewhat the same as what your lifting or just a helper of maybe 50% etc.

 

[WranglerX]

what is a good calculation on what you need for ballast? should you go 75% of your FEL capacity? Or does it really matter what you're lifting? Should it be somewhat the same as what your lifting or just a helper of maybe 50% etc.

This is what came with my FEL for my SCUT.... Seems it would apply to larger tractors too..... Only issue is one needs a scales to do calculations, unless you want to trust factory weights...



A 400 pound (+/-) ballast box seemed to cure this problem when lifting a 520 pound JD dead Deere...





Dale

 

[PEJ5]

what is a good calculation on what you need for ballast? should you go 75% of your FEL capacity? Or does it really matter what you're lifting? Should it be somewhat the same as what your lifting or just a helper of maybe 50% etc.

streamin:. So many options. Let me share my own observations.. My tractor data says it can lift 2600lb at my FEL pins and at my 3Pt. I made my counterweight/ballast about 1300lbs. I had it poured at the local ready-mix and they set the pallet and forms on my trailer. When I went to remove it from my trailer with my tractor pallet forks, it was a bit of a reach...about 3'+ out on the forks from the pins. My rear (loaded) tires lifted instead (pucker)!! I dragged the pallet to the back of the trailer (dangerous) and then I could lift my counterweight with the forks.
So... I learned that with ballasted tires, but without a counterweight, my FEL limit is about half the quoted amount. With the 1300# counterweight on the 3pt, 2' out, I feel much more stable with a load in the FEL or on the forks. I could/should have made it between 1500 and 2000 lbs.

I hope that helps.
View attachment 648998

 

[streamin]

That is really interesting, it makes you wonder how they come up with the 2600 in the first place, and the tire ballast doesn't help as much as I thought in this scenario. Thanks

 

[PEJ5]

That is really interesting, it makes you wonder how they come up with the 2600 in the first place, and the tire ballast doesn't help as much as I thought in this scenario. Thanks

The believe the rating in the specs(2600) is based on the strength of the loader arms and the hydraulics/cylinders. It does not factor in the front to back stability. Some have commented that a good dealer would never let you off the lot without a heavy rear implement or a counterweight.
As for the tire ballast, I had mine filled from day 1 based on advice on TBN to newbie tractor owners. I do not know what it would have felt like and how it would have operated empty. I suspect it would have been scary and does more than I know. Ballast is not the same as counterweight - 1300lbs stuck out two feet behind the 3pt has way more leverage.

 

[RBA50]

Ballast in the rear tires does help, but the pivot point for that weight is the front axle. 3pt counterweight on the other hand pivots at the rear axle, helping to unload the front axle while holding the rear down.

 

[npalen]

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/379539-counterweight-dumpbox-pics.html?highlight=
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...-earth-mover-ballast-box-dump.html?highlight=

The second thread is an improved version of the first with a second cylinder added.

 

[streamin]

As for the tire ballast, I had mine filled from day 1 based on advice on TBN to newbie tractor owners. I do not know what it would have felt like and how it would have operated empty. I suspect it would have been scary and does more than I know. Ballast is not the same as counterweight - 1300lbs stuck out two feet behind the 3pt has way more leverage.

I had a previous tractor that I filled the tires later on, yes it is a noticeable difference and I agree it's not the same as rear counter weight.I did not fill my current tractor tires only because I wanted to keep the weight down for towing but now that I am more settled I am going to do it. I use my 1100lb boxblade as ballast now but I want something heavier and smaller profile. I may do the cement block type.

 

[Notforhire]

Much has to do with your particular tractor.

My JD 5055e with just loaded tires, no counterweight could carry close to 2,000 lbs.
My L47 TL with loaded tires and no counterweight struggles with two bags of groceries. (Not really, but you get the idea.)

The L47 is at it's best with the backhoe attached. I'm sure that Kubota engineers had that in mind when they designed it.
With that big counterweight it feels stable and almost never needs 4WD.

A friend has a Ford 4100 which has a swept back front axle. This design makes it very maneuverable as it effectively shortens the wheelbase.
It also makes it a terrible choice for a FEL. Besides being really hard on the front end, using the loader really required a HEAVY counterweight.
The 4100 is a well built, heavy duty utility tractor, it just was never designed for FEL use.

 

[fruitcakesa]

After standing the M on its nose trying to move a ginormous boulder, I decided my initial ballast was really way to light so I added a rack on top of the original and laid in this former concrete pier that used to hold up a corner of my old woodshed [now reconstructed with new foundation].
I know ideally, ballast should be at or below the rear axle line but this was the how it mounted.
I figure it is now about 800 lbs.
You can see its partner laying behind on the bank

 

[WranglerX]

This is what came with my FEL for my SCUT.... Seems it would apply to larger tractors too..... Only issue is one needs a scales to do calculations, unless you want to trust factory weights...

View attachment 648976

A 400 pound (+/-) ballast box seemed to cure this problem when lifting a 520 pound JD dead Deere...

View attachment 648980

View attachment 648981

Dale

Umm correction, ballast box is about 550 to 600 lbs... Box is 4 cu-ft and one cu-ft of concrete is approximately 150 lbs...

Dale

 

[redrider16]

Umm correction, ballast box is about 550 to 600 lbs... Box is 4 cu-ft and one cu-ft of concrete is approximately 150 lbs...

Dale

this is my flintstone model 150

 

[i7win7]

this is my flintstone model 150

Hope you were wise enough to make it QH compatible. Wish I had.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Hope you were wise enough to make it QH compatible. Wish I had.

I'd be tempted to just remove the top link. Do you really need it? It looks like most of the weight is below the bar. Then you should be quick hitch compatible.

 

[California]

I decided my initial ballast was really way to light so I added a rack on top of the original and laid in this former concrete pier ...
I figure it is now about 800 lbs.

I wonder if you could use chains to lash on that concrete cylinder behind the existing ballast. If the chains came up from the outer corners of the existing ballast box and ended at its top link, then not all the cylinder's weight would stress the ballast box if that is a concern.

 

[V1BuzzBomb]

Quite a bit actually. I figured i needed space for some spare parts, tools and a chain since there isnt much room in the cab and the tractor gets parked at a down town account for the winter pretty far from the shop.
View attachment 637204

There are a lot of great ideas here. So far, the barbell weights and this box impress me and intrigue me the most so far. This is really clever. I'm a John Deere guy with 110 TLB. I bought a BX2360 because for implements and compactness, nothing is close. For that beauty of compact size, to have weight inboard and in between the arms really follows suit for close quarter work. Fine Job!

 

[V1BuzzBomb]

The BX2360 I purchased I have not yet received. It's being delivered. It's a tractor with factory FEL/bucket. It's a clean low hour machine that I believe is all original. It has turf tires. I don't yet know if the rears are filled from dealer new.

I'm interested in suggestions for rear 3ph ballast weight. Let's assume centered at lower link outer pin.

 

[TomIre]

For those of you who used a 55 gallon barrel and a 3pt cross pin - how did you decide what height on the barrel to put the 3pt cross pin? I like the idea as it keeps the weight a bit lower but not sure where to put it.

 

[ns_in_tex]

For those of you who used a 55 gallon barrel and a 3pt cross pin - how did you decide what height on the barrel to put the 3pt cross pin? I like the idea as it keeps the weight a bit lower but not sure where to put it.

On mine, we put the pin about 3" above the bottom ring of the two rings on the barrel. Also near the same for the trailer receiver. This give plenty of lift height and can set it on the ground for park brake. Also, you probably want to move it forward of center of barrel (front to rear) to keep top link pin, not so deep into barrel. I think we moved ours, maybe 5" forward of center.

This is presuming you are wanting the barrel vertical.