Lets talk about your balls

[John White]

Hitch balls of course. Those of you who pull a 14 gvw trailer, what is your ball rated at? I have pulled a 12 gvw16 ft for about 12 years. Sometimes loaded to the max. 10 K. I ran on to a 14 gvw trailer 18' long. I sold the 12 gvw trailer and the fellow wanted a pintle ring so I switched the 2 5\16 hitch, which I wanted anyway. My truck is a F450 with a utility bed with a hitch tube built in and that makes it sit about 26" from the ground. I made a 8' drop hitch for it to fit my pintle hitch with a 2 5\15 ball bolted on with 4 bolts. I got to setting up my new trailer and first I discovered that the trailer hitch was rated for 10k. It was one of those that have the sliding collar to lock and unlock it, and was always a finger pincer. (That's what was on the trailer when it was built) So I ordered a new one different style rated at 14k. When I got to checking my hitch out on the truck I seen that on top of the ball it is listed as 5000 lbs, 1' shank. I have found 4 or 5 hitch inserts with ball over the years laying in the road. One has a ball that says 10,000 lbs, but only a 2" drop, 1 1\8" shank and another one that says 26,000 with a forged insert but only 3" drop. I have another ball only that says 14,000l My pintle hitch doesn't show a rating on it. I did find a ball 2 5\16 that says 6000 rating on top of it but still a 1" shank. Is that strong enough for a 14 gvw trailer? I don't want to have it bored out to the 1 1\8 shank because I am afraid that would weaken it and a 8" 14k drop hitch is almost non exist-ant. What do you guys have on yours? I think those inserts that take the 1" shank ball are only rated at 500lbs tongue weight and I am sure a 14k trailer loaded will have more than that.

 

[Hay Dude]

40k 3” ball on my GN
20k 2.5” receiver on the back of the frame.
I can replace 3” ball with 2&5/16” by just interchanging if I hook up to a smaller GN

 

[Peter 315]

Mine is a raw steel ball 2-5/16 30k rating.....

 

[Topzide]

Check this [https://www.etrailer.com/Drop-Hitc...you on home made hitch with that much weight.

 

[TMGT]

I use the 6in drop version of this Attention Required! | Cloudflare
Very well built, price seems to have gone up a bit since I bought mine a few years ago.

 

[JJZ 109]

I just went from a WeighSafe to a Shocker. So far only 100 miles or so on it but it seems to be a worthwhile move. I opted for the 12k version for my uses but they do make a 16k version.

Shocker Air Receiver Hitch - Build Your Own

 

[3Ts]

My understanding is that the max load is limited to the weakest part of the trailer, so for a 14k trailer all parts need to be able to handle the load. Having said that, I have a 7k trailer from the factory that has a welded on coupler that is stamped as 5k. I seldom run near the max load so it's not been a problem, but it sure makes me concerned when I do carry a heavy load.

 

[fried1765]

My understanding is that the max load is limited to the weakest part of the trailer, so for a 14k trailer all parts need to be able to handle the load. Having said that, I have a 7k trailer from the factory that has a welded on coupler that is stamped as 5k. I seldom run near the max load so it's not been a problem, but it sure makes me concerned when I do carry a heavy load.

Your REAL concern should be if/when you have a accident, (any accident) and either the DOT, or insurance company, see that illegal hitch on your 7K trailer.
If a death might be involved, the plaintiff attorneys will eat both you and your insurance company alive.
The charge would likely be.... "culpable neglect/negligence".

I was the victim (not seriously hurt) of a loose trailer on I-95 at 75 MPH.

 

[Fallon]

Been there, done that. Was surprised & depressed it took me so long to notice the under rated ball & stinger on my previous truck.

Have a 2.5" Weigh Safe drop hitch now on the newer truck. 8k on the 2" ball & 18.5k on the 2 5/16". 7.5k for the 1 7/8" ball I got just in case but have no need for. Retired all my other singers & balls from street towing as many arent clearly labeled or are to small.

I'm a fan of the built in scale on the Weigh Safe. Another part to go wrong, but I balance every load perfectly with ease every time. Slightly annoying to change ball size on, but better than needing to find the big *** wrench for a normal ball.

 

[fried1765]

Been there, done that. Was surprised & depressed it took me so long to notice the under rated ball & stinger on my previous truck.

Have a 2.5" Weigh Safe drop hitch now on the newer truck. 8k on the 2" ball & 18.5k on the 2 5/16". 7.5k for the 1 7/8" ball I got just in case but have no need for. Retired all my other singers & balls from street towing as many arent clearly labeled or are to small.

I'm a fan of the built in scale on the Weigh Safe. Another part to go wrong, but I balance every load perfectly with ease every time. Slightly annoying to change ball size on, but better than needing to find the big *** wrench for a normal ball.

I changed all my small trailers to 2" ball.
14K equipment trailer is 2-5/6".
I use the proportional bathroom scale method (e-trailer.com) for proper tongue weight on the equipment trailer.
It is inconvenient, but it works, and I don't need it often.

 

[RandyT]

My understanding is that the max load is limited to the weakest part of the trailer, so for a 14k trailer all parts need to be able to handle the load. Having said that, I have a 7k trailer from the factory that has a welded on coupler that is stamped as 5k. I seldom run near the max load so it's not been a problem, but it sure makes me concerned when I do carry a heavy load.

Unfortunately that 5K coupler on a 7K trailer from the factory was more common than most people would think.. Tons of 7K trailers straight from the factory with no brakes, just two idler axles.

 

[BRMyers]

Dad uses a 2 5/16" ball rated for 20,000lbs, trailer is rated for 14,000lbs.

 

[3Ts]

Unfortunately that 5K coupler on a 7K trailer from the factory was more common than most people would think.. Tons of 7K trailers straight from the factory with no brakes, just two idler axles.

Yep! It was a surprise to me when I found out. I've added brakes to both axles and a breakaway switch and battery. Also added the proper running lights (it's an old trailer I bought new, and not sure what the lighting requirements were when it was built, but it's current now).

 

[fried1765]

Yep! It was a surprise to me when I found out. I've added brakes to both axles and a breakaway switch and battery. Also added the proper running lights (it's an old trailer I bought new, and not sure what the lighting requirements were when it was built, but it's current now).

EXCELLENT !!!!!

 

[Ortimber]

I use this for both my travel trailer and my 12K equipment trailer. The 2-5/16 ball (not pictured) is also rated for 14K.

 

[RandyT]

Yep! It was a surprise to me when I found out. I've added brakes to both axles and a breakaway switch and battery. Also added the proper running lights (it's an old trailer I bought new, and not sure what the lighting requirements were when it was built, but it's current now).

Was just checking some of the Sikeston,MO trailer factory direct sales dealers, and it looks like most of the tandem axle trailers come with 8K hitches but they are 2" balls so even though the hitch is rated for the 7K trailer weight most people won't be using a 2" ball rated for that weight because most are 5-6K rated in 2" balls, and it also looks like if you want brakes that is an added option and not standard. Or if standard you get one brake axle not both.

My lawnmower hauling trailer is a 7x14 with brakes on both axles. I am using the factory hitch receiver on my Ram 1500 with a 17K rated insert, and the 2 5/16 ball hitch on the trailer is rated at 14K

 

[TMGT]

When I extended my 7k equipment trailer I used a 15k adjustable coupler, overkill but I didn't like the quality of the lighter couplers.

 

[4570Man]

When I extended my 7k equipment trailer I used a 15k adjustable coupler, overkill but I didn't like the quality of the lighter couplers.View attachment 669686

Those adjustable height couplers are by far the best. The OP probably wouldn’t be needing such a high drop ball with one. Even if he does manage to find one a drop hitch severely reduces the vehicle hitch rating. Another benefit to the adjustable hitch is it’s easily removed for theft prevention.

 

[dragoneggs]

I changed all my small trailers to 2" ball.
14K equipment trailer is 2-5/6".
I use the proportional bathroom scale method (e-trailer.com) for proper tongue weight on the equipment trailer.
It is inconvenient, but it works, and I don't need it often.

Great thread... even though I was prepared to talk about the subject first on my mind :laughing:

It is nice to hear how many here are conscious of proper towing practices. Unfortunately I'm afraid the vast majority are not as aware of the particulars as they should be.

I for one, early in my driving days, purchased a small garden trailer and towing it home, it got loose on me and as it 'pulled along side me' during a slow left turn in a residential area... learned that all balls are not created equal.

Now I critique my own set ups as well as anyone I am around to make sure they are properly hitched including safety chains, brakes, lights, etc. I feel I was taught a lesson that day and am thankful I didn't hurt or kill someone because of my ignorance.

 

[Ford850]

I ran into this when setting up a hitch for my dump trailer. I couldn't find a 2 5/16" ball locally (TSC, Rural King, Home Depot, car parts stores, etc) that was rated at more than 6 or 7k lbs. Seems they all carried the lowest priced option in stock. Many people will just by a ball that fits and not look at the rating stamped on the ball. I wonder how many heavy trailers are being towed by balls rated at half or less what they are pulling.