Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

IslandTractor · Apr 3, 2017

It is standard to trim the flail so that front to back is level. However, I sometimes shorten or lengthen the hydraulic topping lift to slightly lower or raise the cutting height while mowing so it isn't critical to have the front to back exactly level. Bottom line is simply to understand the geometry of the mower as it pivots up and down on the rear roller. I might for instance lengthen the topping lift and "push" the mower up a bit when cutting very lush thick grass that would otherwise slow me down. Conversely, I sometimes lower the mower an inch or two by shortening the topping lift if I am trying to cut off brush as close to the ground as possible. Use the rear roller to set approximate cut height and then fiddle with topping lift to get it exact. I even use the 3PT at times to raise the whole mower when backing into thick brush (and then lowering it when I drive forward to get a clean second cut). 3PT also can be used to make small adjustments to cutting height but I prefer to use the hydraulic topping lift. If I had a manual topping lift I'd use the 3PT for the same fine adjustments.

pd tractor · Apr 5, 2017

thanks!
what is the HP of your PTO? Tractor width? I'd like to go with the 48" to match my tractor (48" edge-to-edge tires) but my PTO is 15 HP, not the recommended 20 HP.
They have a 41" rated at 16 HP

IslandTractor · Apr 5, 2017

pd tractor said:
thanks!
what is the HP of your PTO? Tractor width? I'd like to go with the 48" to match my tractor (48" edge-to-edge tires) but my PTO is 15 HP, not the recommended 20 HP.
They have a 41" rated at 16 HP

Ignore the recommended PTO. That's just to make sure you don't complain that you need to slow down in thick grass. It is preferable to cut a bit wider than your tires so you have some ability to get the mower close to objects you don't want to scrape up against (fence, tree, rock).

pd tractor · Apr 5, 2017

IslandTractor said:
Ignore the recommended PTO. That's just to make sure you don't complain that you need to slow down in thick grass. It is preferable to cut a bit wider than your tires so you have some ability to get the mower close to objects you don't want to scrape up against (fence, tree, rock).

ah, just what I needed to hear! More concerned about damaging the tractor; I can mow slowly, I have more time than money.
Thank you!!!

IslandTractor · Apr 6, 2017

Check to see if the mower you are looking at can be offset. My Caroni has two positions for attaching the 3PT bridge to the mower. One leaves the mower centered and the other offsets about 12-15". Additionally, even with the mower "centered", you can adjust the tractor 3PT arms to push over to one side which gets you another 3-4" typically. Also I think a lot of mowers are naturally a bit offset. Mine is 73" with about 12" extra on the right. Works well with my approx 60" tire edge to tire edge distance.

I find a total of 12-15" mower cutting off the right side of the tractor to be very efficient and is my standard setting. It allows cutting closer to obstacles and under bushes for starters. It also means that I can run the left front wheel just at the cut edge of where I previously mowed and gives me the largest possible cut width without risking missed patches. It works best if you mow in a clockwise loop.

pd tractor · Apr 7, 2017

IslandTractor said:
Check to see if the mower you are looking at can be offset. My Caroni has two positions for attaching the 3PT bridge to the mower. One leaves the mower centered and the other offsets about 12-15". Additionally, even with the mower "centered", you can adjust the tractor 3PT arms to push over to one side which gets you another 3-4" typically. Also I think a lot of mowers are naturally a bit offset. Mine is 73" with about 12" extra on the right. Works well with my approx 60" tire edge to tire edge distance.

I find a total of 12-15" mower cutting off the right side of the tractor to be very efficient and is my standard setting. It allows cutting closer to obstacles and under bushes for starters. It also means that I can run the left front wheel just at the cut edge of where I previously mowed and gives me the largest possible cut width without risking missed patches. It works best if you mow in a clockwise loop.

not sure if you were specifically addressing me; thanks if you are
that is good advice. I believe it does have offset positions. Also, as you suggested just adjusting the arms a few inches would probably get me just past the wheel, which would be enough. I am excited to get this after years of hacking at my open grass with a brush hog.

Catman8 · Apr 7, 2017

Update: Bush Hog FM188 or Ford 917 vibration problem, adjustable balance weights missing and no longer available for purchase.

I drew out the weights to scale and ordered a 1-1/2 x 1' piece of cold rolled.

I drilled two holes and used a 7" grinding wheel to make the radius, the weights needed to weight .88 pounds per the print, but they weighed less than that after drilling the holes and making the radius, so I did not bother machining the outside corners.

I gave it a spin using the old blades and she ran as smooth as can be, no vibration. I ordered all new hardware from Flail-master and tried out the two piece ruff cut blades for field mowing, they cut fine except for the very fine grass, it just laid it over. The manual said the standard cut blade would also create a suction and lift the grass and from what I experienced, that is true, if you really don't have thick brush I would stick with the paddle blades.

The original correct hardware was longer and extended past the side skids and I did not care for that because I feel the side skids will protect the blades from hitting the dirt, I could be wrong, but I made new skids anyway. As you can see the previous owner made new skids because most likely they were rusted out. Anyway all worked out ok and I now have a flail mower I can use.