Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[IslandTractor]

I'm glade i was able to fix the problem because I don't have the funds for a new flail mower . Thanks for everyone's help.

I'm sure you have inspired at least a few other guys to tackle a similar "renovation" of an oldie but goodie flail mower that needs a bit of technical loving attention. I think the key, besides your skills and determination, was how you managed to get the original part drawings from the Ford/BushHog guys. You get the bird dog award for finding that!:thumbsup:

 

[Xfaxman]

I don't understand, your weights look way too big and heavy. Where did you find the weight of .88? Nevermind, found it:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...alk-flail-mowers-post4704688.html#post4704688

Correct me if I am wrong. Looking at the print you posted, I see a weight that is 2" x .88" and comes in three thicknesses, .031 weight is .02, .125 weighs .07, and .250 weighs .15.

I would think the weights would be stacked using different thicknesses to balance the rotor, not using all of them shown in the parts list.

 

[Catman8]

I don't understand, your weights look way too big and heavy. Where did you find the weight of .88?

Correct me if I am wrong. Looking at the print you posted, I see a weight that is 2" x .88" and comes in three thicknesses, .031 weight is .02, .125 weighs .07, and .250 weighs .15.

I would think the weights would be stacked using different thicknesses to balance the rotor.

View attachment 504987

View attachment 504991

The manual says if you use fine cut blades the stacked weight should be 7/8" and if your using standard or course cut blades the stacked weights should be 1-15/32". The parts diagram shows 10-.250" thick, 2-.125" thick and 6-.031" thick, so each side should be 5-.250", 1-.125" and 3-.031" and those nine weights equal to 1-15/32" thick and total .88 lbs. The one thing I did not understand is why the weight did not come out as the print called for, and if they only needed two different size weights why did they make so many small weights.

View attachment 505011View attachment 505012View attachment 505013

 

[Xfaxman]

Just did a search on the 1/4" part number: Bush Hog Part# F751925

 

[Catman8]

Just did a search on the 1/4" part number: Bush Hog Part# F751925

I called my local tractor wrecking yard and they put a request on their computer system for the weights and I never heard back. The rotor is balanced with welded on weights and the adjustable weights are only used when using different styles of blades, so the owner is never really balancing anything, he is just keeping the rotor balanced when the amount of blades are increased or decreased using a different hole pattern.

 

[Xfaxman]

The manual says if you use fine cut blades the stacked weight should be 7/8" and if your using standard or course cut blades the stacked weights should be 1-15/32". --------------------]

Thanks.

Sure would not want to have to switch between fine cut and one the other style blades very often.

 

[Catman8]

Thanks.

Sure would not want to have to switch between fine cut and one the other style blades very often.

No kidding, I'm glade I only have a field to mow, no golf courses.

 

[Catman8]

I'm sure you have inspired at least a few other guys to tackle a similar "renovation" of an oldie but goodie flail mower that needs a bit of technical loving attention. I think the key, besides your skills and determination, was how you managed to get the original part drawings from the Ford/BushHog guys. You get the bird dog award for finding that!:thumbsup:

If Bush Hog would not of found me the print my last resort was to have Fallon weigh his weights in return for a case of beer :drink: lol

 

[Fallon]

If Bush Hog would not of found me the print my last resort was to have Fallon weigh his weights in return for a case of beer :drink: lol

lol. The end all be all test is does it vibrate at 540 rpm... And it sounds like it doesn't, so you won.

My rear roller was welded in place & no longer asjustable. Not even sure if the side feet are there or adjustable either. Hapy enough with it despite the flaws. Looking forward to replacing it with a new flail that hasnt been beat to **** here within a few years. Still beats a rotary cutter even beat to heck.

 

[shaeff]

Had to replace the roller bearings on my JD 25A. They're hex bore, picked them up over the winter. After some other cleanup and yard work, I decided to tackle them. This mower is pretty beat up but still cuts nicely.

The bearings were so shot that the roller wouldn't turn, and the hex roller shaft had turned INSIDE the hex bore bearings!

A BFH took care of that, it just broke my wheel puller. need some new carriage bolts, as all needed to be cut off. Previous owner put on some real long ones, then must have snagged an immovable object and bent the crap out of them.

Need one new pillow block, as it's cracked. May still be usable but if I can find a new 3-bolt block that would be best.

Question- the bearings that I removed and the bearings that I'm installing don't have a grease hole ANYWHERE for grease to make it from the pillow block mount into the bearing. What gives? Why even a zerk on the block if the grease can't enter the bearing?