Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[sunspot]

J J, I checked out some Kevlar belts and they ran triple in cost. So far, my NAPA belts are holding up just fine. I had the belt cover off and they looked good.


I tried to tighten up the belts a bit and found that if you run the adjustment nut too far on the bolt, it (the bolt) sticks out into the flange area of the cover and then the cover can't be bolted down. I ran the nut back out a smidge and poked the bolt under with a screwdriver and snapped the cover on.

 

[J_J]

Good to hear the belts are working out. And yes, I agree the Kevlar belts are more expensive, but if they last three times longer, maybe worth it. I would recommend that after you use the belts awhile, and after the break in period, to re-check the tension. Does your flail use a set tension, or a spring tension?

 

[sunspot]

It uses a coil spring attached to an eye bolt. The bolt sits in a slot with a nut on top. Run the bolt towards the eye to increase tension.

I would buy the Kevlar belts if needed.

BTW, new crop Gallberry/Saw Palmetto honey should be out in you area at this time. It痴 very good.

 

[IslandTractor]

It uses a coil spring attached to an eye bolt. The bolt sits in a slot with a nut on top. Run the bolt towards the eye to increase tension..

I replaced my stock spring with a short piece of stiff but bendable steel rod so it fits the spring's anchor points. It allows me to get greater tension without the spring thingie hitting the cover as you noted. However, having done that, there was not any difference in the operating tempurature as measured at the pullies or the belt. I intended to go back to the stock spring but just haven't bothered to do it yet. Many hours of mowing later the system seems fine as is. Still on the first set of belts (maybe 50hrs mowing time, mostly high grass and brush).

 

[Reg]

My 1900 Caroni was doing some 4ft high wet thick stuff and started to load down the tractor a bit, I don't know what my ground speed was, but I dropped a gear and increased the revs a bit - it worked GOOD !

Later I did a bit of arithmetic; I am running on the 1,000 RPM shaft and THOUGHT I was running the engine revs at ~54% of what gives 540 out of the 540 RPM shaft.
OK, so I have been running this thing WAY fast - around 800 RPM at the shaft.
But I tell Ya ! It CUTS a lot better and does NOT load up or load the tractor down.

Yeah, I know; engines make more HP at higher revs, etc.
I think this is more about blade speed, cutting not hitting.
KOOL belts too, something about less likely to slip at higher speeds ? maybe just the better cutting equates to less load.
Anywho, it WORKS - it didn't seem to mind brush and small rocks either.

 

[sandman2234]

My JD 25a flail mower cuts great at 540 rpm, but anything less than that shows up real quick in thick stuff or wet grass. I have to keep the belt tight, as it doesn't like even a little bit of slack.(won't spin up the blades from a dead standstill with slack). It also cuts in the same rotation direction as the tires are turning, throwing stuff backward (known as climb cutting in a machine shop) Not a self adjusting belt tensioner, gotta keep an eye on it.
David from jax

 

[VAMountains]

J J, I checked out some Kevlar belts and they ran triple in cost. So far, my NAPA belts are holding up just fine.

Can someone post the part number for NAPA belts for a TM1900?

 

[DavesTractor]

.....OK, so I have been running this thing WAY fast - around 800 RPM at the shaft.....

Be concerned about the mower gearbox at higher rpms. We've seen a number of gearbox failures, both flail and rotary, when running a 540 designed box at higher rpms. They sure cut nice, but the gearbox can overheat and cook itself. So be careful.

 

[pncast]

Ok I'll just let all of you know about using the caroni flail for finish mowing. It doesn't work. I'm not sure why others say it does but here is my experience. The legs that adjust and hold the mower up tear the lawn apart as you mow. You can take then off and try it but still seems to make a mess of it. It throws so much mulch on the ground you can't get rid of it unless you sweep the lawn. I just say beware of what is said on here. Thanks

 

[Reg]

The fact that YOU have not (yet) been able to do something is not proof positive that it cannot be done.

That said;
a) Adjust the skid shoes in conjunction with the roller
b) travel slow enough to allow "mulching".
c) Get the height right with the lift arms, THEN adjust the top link so that it will "float" in the slot.

Basically if your travel speed is too fast you just "cut grass" and if it is very long then ALL you do is to "cut grass" (once), not mulch.