Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[kco]

JimCan, is buying a longer top link a possible solution? I had to do that for my flail because I use a Pat's Easy Hitch that moves implements 4" farther out from the tractor. The longest cat 1 top link (I think 20 or 22" barrel) would not work. However, the longest cat 2 top link added a total of 4". I believe the barrel was the same length but the threaded ends were each 2" longer. I used cat 2 to 1 bushings to adapt it to the tractor. I had to grind down the tractor end of the top link and bushing so they would fit in the tractor end. I also drilled and tapped a couple of holes to add set screws to keep the tractor end bushing in place.

Here is a photo:

 

[DieselBound]

Couldn't one extend the top link attachment point from/on the flail (via welding/bolting on some metal)?

Seems like, maybe, the lower link arms might be long. If this were some off-brand tractor I'd think it a tractor issue, but this is a JD (well, yeah, JD does some things differently).

Might want to talk to the flail manufacturer/vendor to see what they know to be the best solution.

kco, that's some great problem solving! :thumbsup:

 

[sidecarist]

I know on most tractors that the upper link mount on the tractor is bolted on, maybe it could be spaced out with a steel block.

I still think it would be best to buy a longer link. it would also provide some convienence as the link would stay with the mower and always be the correct length.

 

[DieselBound]

I know on most tractors that the upper link mount on the tractor is bolted on, maybe it could be spaced out with a steel block.

I still think it would be best to buy a longer link. it would also provide some convienence as the link would stay with the mower and always be the correct length.

Yeah, I agree.

Also brings up (the obvious?) point that there are generally multiple tractor-side mount points/holes for the top link. I'd be surprised if JimCan isn't aware of this, but figured I'd toss it out. Might not even help (or be correct?).

 

[CADplans]

Folks, I am unable to get my flail to pivot back onto the roller; my top link will not extend far enough to rocker the flail rearward. I read that, rather than running level, if you raise the nose of the flail you can cut a little taller than the 'standard'. Any thoughts?

Jim

Hmmmm,,, are you trying to "push" the mower back with the top link,,,
when you should be lifting the front of the flail with the three point hitch arms?

With my mower, during mowing, I could remove the top link and operate properly.
The TL is only in play during transport.

 

[IslandTractor]

Time for a properly sized hydraulic topping lift. Once you've used one you'll wonder how you ever managed without. It makes adjusting the proper angle trivial and is very useful for changing blades/clevises (raise 3PT, shorten topping lift and you have MUCH better access).

Note that these photos were taken when my mower was pretty new and before I figured out that the dealer had put the topping lift tower on backwards. Now corrected. The slot in the topping lift tower should be parallel to the ground not angled. Simple confusion as the bolt pattern allows it to be installed backwards.

 

[DieselBound]

Yes, as IT suggests, hydraulic top links are great!

I'm wondering, however, whether those front skids on the flail can't be dropped down further in order to increase the rake.

 

[JimCan]

I'll get a pic this week... Oddly, the only XL top link (unknown exact extended length) is available at Tractor Supply - out of stock. I was also thinking yesterday, if I rocker'd the weight of the mower back onto the roller - would the bearings support all that weight? ...maybe lower the skids.

Jim

 

[Xfaxman]

Here is another way to extend the top link.

 

[leonz]

Had opportunity to use the trash door.... �� Unfortunately it was to use it to remove a huge amount of fencing wire that I hit. I saw it and let off the go just a split second too late. It shut the tractor right down. Not a little bit of wire. The previous owners must have piled it there. I estimate 50 feet of it at least. Took an hour and a half to remove. But wow, having that door was a life saver!!!
View attachment 487010View attachment 487011
The before picture doesn't show all the wire under the grass. The after picture is just a portion of what I removed!!!
Back up and running without issue.

Hello Docsfarm,

I am glad you did not have to deal with the barbed wire snakes and the wire removal job went well.