Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[Ricn]

Plenty of power.

 

[Ricn]

Plenty of power and a nice tractor too!

 

[apkMainer]

Plenty of power.

Tx

 

[okanoganjim]

Just wanted to say a few words about my WoodMaxx FM-78H Flail Mower I purchased a few months back. I have been very pleased with this mower. As others have said it's rugged and willing to take abuse, built like a tank. I got mine with the Y-blades and am glad I did. I figured that you cut through the sage brush etc once, and from then on its mowing grass. Y-blades seemed like the better choice for my particular use. They have proven to be tough as nails. I have hit the ground, rocks, limbs etc and they still look great. I joke that its a "Flail-mow-a-tiller". Added benefit is you can reverse the blades to get a second life before you need to get the grinder out. I bought my mower with the hydraulic side shift. I use it once in a while. In retrospect, I could have skipped that option. I did have a problem with the Hydraulic cylinder leaking. WoodMaxx sent me a new one which solved the problem. Using the mower is a learning process. Having a Hydraulic top link is a big help. So is slowing down when cutting a heavy batch of Kochia. Anyway, BIG thumbs up on WoodMaxx. This tool should last me many years.

Jim

​

 

[Ricn]

Just wanted to say a few words about my WoodMaxx FM-78H Flail Mower I purchased a few months back. I have been very pleased with this mower. As others have said it's rugged and willing to take abuse, built like a tank. I got mine with the Y-blades and am glad I did. I figured that you cut through the sage brush etc once, and from then on its mowing grass. Y-blades seemed like the better choice for my particular use. They have proven to be tough as nails. I have hit the ground, rocks, limbs etc and they still look great. I joke that its a "Flail-mow-a-tiller". Added benefit is you can reverse the blades to get a second life before you need to get the grinder out. I bought my mower with the hydraulic side shift. I use it once in a while. In retrospect, I could have skipped that option. I did have a problem with the Hydraulic cylinder leaking. WoodMaxx sent me a new one which solved the problem. Using the mower is a learning process. Having a Hydraulic top link is a big help. So is slowing down when cutting a heavy batch of Kochia. Anyway, BIG thumbs up on WoodMaxx. This tool should last me many years.

Jim

​

Lots of love here for my Woodmaxx. Like you said, tough as nails. I also like Brewster, been there many times.

 

[Sid Post]

Hi folks. I’ve been wondering if a flail mower is right for me. We’re rotationally grazing sheep over about 17 acres, although next year it’s going to be about 60. We tend to mow after we move the sheep, just to keep uneaten vegetation from going to seed and encourage new growth. Last year and this year we’ve been mostly using our 60” mower deck on our John Deere 1025R, or our 60” rotary mower on our Kubota L3130. The JD mows a little lower than we’d ideally like, even at its highest setting. It’s OK this year, but isn’t going to “cut it” next year when we’re moving 4 acre paddocks every 4 days. Too much time spent mowing. The rotary mower leaves a semi-windrow as it passes and doesn’t distribute the cuttings well, which tends to inhibit new growth where the cuttings lay.

We also mow occasionally around the horse pasture, and the rotary mower isn’t great there for the same reason.

Is a flail mower the right tool for cutting grass after sheep? It’s usually not hard work as the sheep have ideally eaten most of it. The more mulching/shredding it does, the better, both for sheep and horses. On a semi-related note, I just paid a neighbour >$1000 to chop 32 acres of cut hay as it got ruined by rain. It would have been slow going with my 31hp Kubota, but $1000 would have gone a long way towards buying me a nice mower.

I’m just looking for ideas on whether I should be getting a flail mower/shredder, or some other type of mower. Then, is 72” about the max for my tractor or could I safely go wider? I guess I have more research to do too on the different types of blades for each application. Thanks.

The Caroni flails with the hydraulic offset available from Agrisupply would be a good fit for you and your Kubota. Hammers will tackle light brush much better than the grass"Y" knives and the hammers will leave your pasture in good shape similar to a good rotary cutter.

Flails also won't eject missiles like a rotary cutter will so, you are less apt to put a hole in a barn or take a windshield from a vehicle.

Lastly, the hydraulic offset is awesome for mowing ditch banks and around ponds!

 

[Ribz]

Hi folks. I’ve been wondering if a flail mower is right for me. We’re rotationally grazing sheep over about 17 acres, although next year it’s going to be about 60. We tend to mow after we move the sheep, just to keep uneaten vegetation from going to seed and encourage new growth. Last year and this year we’ve been mostly using our 60” mower deck on our John Deere 1025R, or our 60” rotary mower on our Kubota L3130. The JD mows a little lower than we’d ideally like, even at its highest setting. It’s OK this year, but isn’t going to “cut it” next year when we’re moving 4 acre paddocks every 4 days. Too much time spent mowing. The rotary mower leaves a semi-windrow as it passes and doesn’t distribute the cuttings well, which tends to inhibit new growth where the cuttings lay.

We also mow occasionally around the horse pasture, and the rotary mower isn’t great there for the same reason.

Is a flail mower the right tool for cutting grass after sheep? It’s usually not hard work as the sheep have ideally eaten most of it. The more mulching/shredding it does, the better, both for sheep and horses. On a semi-related note, I just paid a neighbour >$1000 to chop 32 acres of cut hay as it got ruined by rain. It would have been slow going with my 31hp Kubota, but $1000 would have gone a long way towards buying me a nice mower.

I’m just looking for ideas on whether I should be getting a flail mower/shredder, or some other type of mower. Then, is 72” about the max for my tractor or could I safely go wider? I guess I have more research to do too on the different types of blades for each application. Thanks.

Sorry about losing all the hay. Then to be out another $1000 really bites.

 

[troverman]

I'm also running a Woodmaxx FM-78 behind my Kubota MX6000 which has 52PTO HP. Even with that PTO rating, and being only a 6-foot 2-inch mower, there are still certain types of grasses and growth which will slow me down or bog the tractor. I have run this mower with Y-knives and this year I'm using hammers. Y-knives are a little lighter and require a little less PTO HP but also have less of a "flywheel" effect, so the mower can bog down more quickly in thick stuff. I don't see much of a difference in cut quality, but the hammers do much better on brush and the Y-knives seem to be less affected by impacts with rocks.

For me, the best feature on the mower is the "trash door" which allows you to set the discharge door to one of three settings: mail slot (how most flails are, maximum mulching); mid-open (best compromise between mulching and quick discharge), and wide open / up (best options for very heavy grass). Having the door wide open has improved my speed in heavy grasses without a doubt.

I think many people on here with Woodmaxx mowers overestimate how well made their mower is; it certainly isn't bottom of the pile like Titan Attachments, but it surely isn't an Alamo either. Its a Chinese-made mower that has been designed by a reputable company in NY state. I've had my Woodmaxx since 2019, and from then to now I've had to replace the upper triple pulley and collar, belts replaced 3x (once when the upper pulley broke), and the bearings on the rear roller. It's likely the best mower at this price point, to be sure.

 

[leonz]

I jut bought a Ironcraft FL-165 to cut about 7 acres of overgrown pasture. It has been so wet this summer in Maine, haven't been able to cut with my bush hog. Bogs down the tractor. Flail came with hammers installed but also came with Y blades. Should I change blades for first cut or just go with the hammers? The grass is about 5-6 ft tall and very green.

First be sure the rear roller is set at the lowest cutting height which requires the rear roller to be
mounted at the highest adjustment point(mounting holes) on the side weldments.

Remove the cast hammers and install the side slicer knives, you will be able to recut
the clippings and heavy brush with no difficulty and you will not have dead grass
covering the sod.

With the smaller acreage you have you will be able to mow in 2 acre blocks and keep
it cut at a 2 inch height after you mow it the first time.

The hammer knives will not recut the brush for you as they will not have the ability to
lift the clippings and cut them again.

You need to mow at the lowest forward travel speed for the first cutting to be able to
create the highest pressure gradient to create the lift needed to slice the brush and carry
it over the flail mower rotor and throw it back down on the ground.

Make you first pass to the center of the acreage and then start mowing inn a small spiral and
only take a half cut after the first pass and continue doing it this way until you are done.
B doing this you will be recutting and cutting at the same time and shredding the clipping to
a much smaller size and they will dissolve faster.

Do not depend on the Tattle tale air restriction indicator on your air filter as they are extremely
inaccurate. Do nothing more than use shop vacuum with a soft brush to clean it, do not bang it
on something as it will damage it.

The drier the brush becomes the more often your trash screen in front of the radiator will plug so
be very mindful of that.

Once you have it cleared and cut at 2" you will be able to mow at a faster ground speed while mowing
in a spiral pattern.

Yes, it will be boring, perhaps you can invest in a fender radio or a set of radio earmuffs from Gemplers
to pass the time while mowing?

 

[leonz]

Hi folks. I’ve been wondering if a flail mower is right for me. We’re rotationally grazing sheep over about 17 acres, although next year it’s going to be about 60. We tend to mow after we move the sheep, just to keep uneaten vegetation from going to seed and encourage new growth. Last year and this year we’ve been mostly using our 60” mower deck on our John Deere 1025R, or our 60” rotary mower on our Kubota L3130. The JD mows a little lower than we’d ideally like, even at its highest setting. It’s OK this year, but isn’t going to “cut it” next year when we’re moving 4 acre paddocks every 4 days. Too much time spent mowing. The rotary mower leaves a semi-windrow as it passes and doesn’t distribute the cuttings well, which tends to inhibit new growth where the cuttings lay.

We also mow occasionally around the horse pasture, and the rotary mower isn’t great there for the same reason.

Is a flail mower the right tool for cutting grass after sheep? It’s usually not hard work as the sheep have ideally eaten most of it. The more mulching/shredding it does, the better, both for sheep and horses. On a semi-related note, I just paid a neighbour >$1000 to chop 32 acres of cut hay as it got ruined by rain. It would have been slow going with my 31hp Kubota, but $1000 would have gone a long way towards buying me a nice mower.

I’m just looking for ideas on whether I should be getting a flail mower/shredder, or some other type of mower. Then, is 72” about the max for my tractor or could I safely go wider? I guess I have more research to do too on the different types of blades for each application. Thanks.

Hello and good afternoon aclarke,

A 48" Del Morino or Maschio boom mounted orchard and vineyard crop shredder for your kubota will work well for you as it will allow you to mow close to fence lines and when fully extended it will let you mow in a spiral from the center and clip the pasture at a 2 inch height.