Rotary Cutter Leveling/height setting for BH

[Learning to Farm]

Happy Friday! Can't wait to start my long weekend of field maintenance (no sarcasm,promise). So I am posting all the questions I thought of sitting at the desk this week. My first one may seem naive: I use the BH to "mow" fields. I spoke with the one of the extension agents and he said he uses a 4 foot level to make sure his BH is level. Also, I was told not to mow lower than 4 inches, but if I raise the BH the rear wheel dangles, I get reprimanded for that even when it's because I am driving in little dips in our fields. He said something about cranking something down, I have no cranks that I know of.

I have a old Woods BH, it has one wheel. It is on a 3ph.

So:
1. Websites or play by play on how to level?
2. Where is this crank?
3.How do I adjust the height (related to 1 maybe)?

I hate to think I am not using my favorite attachment right!

Thanks!

 

[Wolfy]

Your photo tells me you should lengthen the top link on your 3 point hitch. You also have an adjustment built into the mower ( above the gearbox ). I see its set to the 3rd hole back. Maybe try the 4th hole back.

 

[greg_g]

Photos not very clear, but it appears that mower isn't equipped with a floating toplink bracket. They are attached to the point where your toplink is currently pinned. When installed, you pin your toplink to the floating bracket rather than to the A-frame. The pivoting action of the bracket is what keeps the tail wheel on the ground while mowing

//greg//

 

[TripleR]

There are a lot of useful threads on this, here are just a few, good luck.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/145455-adjusting-brush-hog.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/130308-brush-hog-question-lean-backwards.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/206744-how-do-i-use-my.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/126384-adjusting-brushhog.html

 

[Leejohn]

See if you can see this a little better. I used a chain for the top link on my BH, that worked the best for me. By me it looks like there is some adjustment for the rear wheel at the gear box. Lee

 

[TripleR]

Happy Friday! Can't wait to start my long weekend of field maintenance (no sarcasm,promise). So I am posting all the questions I thought of sitting at the desk this week. My first one may seem naive: I use the BH to "mow" fields. I spoke with the one of the extension agents and he said he uses a 4 foot level to make sure his BH is level. Also, I was told not to mow lower than 4 inches, but if I raise the BH the rear wheel dangles, I get reprimanded for that even when it's because I am driving in little dips in our fields. He said something about cranking something down, I have no cranks that I know of.

I have a old Woods BH, it has one wheel. It is on a 3ph.

So:
1. Websites or play by play on how to level?
2. Where is this crank?
3.How do I adjust the height (related to 1 maybe)?

I hate to think I am not using my favorite attachment right!

Thanks!

The crank will be on the right 3PH lift arm. It will either be a "crank" or a collar that can be rotated to lengthen or shorten thus leveling your bush hog.

I can't see any "floating top-link" as mentioned, so it either did not come with one or is missing. Some people replace the top brace from the top-link point of attachment to the deck with a chain to allow the deck to float over uneven terrain. If you are concerned with it flipping forward, you could run the chain through a pipe, we used this method when pulling tractors etc to keep the towed machine from running into the pulling one. A better option would probably be to fab a floating top-link bracket. I can't tell much else from the picture, sorry.

 

[RoyJackson]

Best bet is to read the threads TripleR linked to...

Based upon the text of your post, leveling would refer to side to side. You use your right side draft (lower) link adjustment (threaded rod or link from the draft link to the lifting link (the part that actually rotates to lift the 3PH).
Get behind your Kubota and see how the deck of the cutter compares to a level part or the tractor (I use the top of the ROPS). You can use a bubble level if your tractor is on a level area...otherwise, the bubble level will throw you off.
Basically, you want the cutter deck parallel with the top of the tractor's ROPS.

The "crank" you're refering to was probably used in the extention agent's conversation as a verb, not a noun. He suggested you adjust something. There's only two things you can adjust (on the tractor): the top link of the 3PH and the adjustable link I described in the previous paragraph (side to side leveling).

After you have leveled side to side (don't go **** on this...doesn't have to be perfect), you'll want to set height. This is done by using your rockshaft lever to set the height of the draft (lower) links. Deere's use an adjustable stop on the rockshaft lever slot...very simple. You'll want the front of the cutter a few inches off the ground.

My cutter (old Land Pride) uses the tail wheel for setting the height (tail wheel bracket will raise and lower). I can't see what your cutter uses...but that might just be due to the bluriness of the picture.

As greg_g wrote, there should be a floating bracket at the upper connection (tractor's top link). Doesn't appear to be one though.

So, before you start mowing, look for the adjustments everyone has listed. Once you've found them and ensure you can adjust (your cutter looks a bit rusty...might have to loosen some adjustments up a bit) your cutter.

Another thing you can do is go to the Woods Equipment website and look at a manual for a current production cutter for how to set your cutter up. It may not be exactly the same, but should be similar enough to familarize you with what is necessary to do before you start mowing.

BTW, few things to do when you're ready to start:
1) Engage your tractor's PTO at a lower RPM. This reduces the shock on the PTO. If the engine starts to stall, give it a bit more throttle.
(You'll experience some vibration initially and may hear a "bang" as the cutter's blades pivot out)
2) Watch your tractor's temperature gage. Brush cutting is dirty and dusty. Your radiator grills can get clogged with debris (reducing the airflow to the radiator). Carry a small stiff bristled brush to clean them out.
3) If you're mowing in an unfamilar area, go slow. If the brush is tall or thick, there may be all kinds of garbage under the brush. This can damage your tractor, cutter...or you!

 

[RoyJackson]

...you could run the chain through a pipe, we used this method when pulling tractors etc to keep the towed machine from running into the pulling one...

Now that is a darn good idea!!!!!
Are you sure you don't have an Engineering degree?

 

[TripleR]

Now that is a darn good idea!!!!!
Are you sure you don't have an Engineering degree?

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[ShenandoahJoe]

Basically, you want the cutter deck parallel with the top of the tractor's ROPS.

Of course. It's obvious now. I've been trying to figure out how to level my rotary cutter, given that I don't own any horizontal land. I ought to look up more often. Tx!

 

[pat32rf]

If he just shortens the adjustable toplink on his 3pth until the mower is level front to back and adjusts the height of his tailwheel the mower will still ride up and down over uneven ground. The 3pth is free to raise with the mower....within reason

 

[RoyJackson]

If he just shortens the adjustable toplink on his 3pth until the mower is level front to back and adjusts the height of his tailwheel the mower will still ride up and down over uneven ground. The 3pth is free to raise with the mower....within reason

But it won't float...which is important for uneven ground.

 

[JohninCT]

See pg 15 of Landpride rotary cutter manual for leveling procedure. Yours should be similar.

http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/312-556m.pdf

 

[Learning to Farm]

Hope you all had a wonderful holiday weekend. I took the list of words that I did not know and using my TBN iPhone app to read this thread while "inspecting" the set up.

I have included my definitions please correct me if I am mistaken:

Top link- That is the top connection of the 3 points, it does not "lift".
Floating toplink bracket-This is were the top link connects to the implements (on the implement).
A "crank" or a collar - This is on the top link, mine is two 4" or so post that stick out on either side of the long tube that the two joints screw into. I now think I understand why it is so hard to hook that part up... it should be loosened from that part "evenly" not just unscrew the one that is closest to the implement. Is there a tool for doing it? I took an old wrench and slid it down the post and used that for leverage.
ROPS - Still confused about this one, maybe the roll bar?
rockshaft lever - The lever I use to pick up and put down the implements.

I set it using the top link... as best as I could, it is pretty level left to right so I left that alone (the bubble was almost perfect and Roy said not to go ****).

About the time that I got that done one of the guys that sometimes works on the equipment showed up and said looks good. He is not out at the farm all the time and he is always busy, so I ask you guys. (You would think that with me on some really expensive they would have me more supervised, haha).

I asked him to show me where all the zerks are so I greased all of them and then he opened the gear box (?) and I got to add more gear oil (?).

He informed me that the Ford drafts (my definition, rides the hills) the implements but the Kubota does not. I got to "drive" the Ford around because they want me to be able to use both. It was exciting because it is a real manual (the Kubota is a GST) and it has a high and low shifter (there are all sorts of technical terms I will learn when I drive that one.

So on a side note:

Roy, loved your BTW addition... I need those! I do the daily maintenance that is in the owners manual, well daily and I saw how filled the screen gets. Makes me want to wear a dust mask.

Pat32, I finally figured out who the "he" is, its me... but I am a "she" haha! No offense taken, just a little head scratching.

And thanks to all of you for increasing my knowledge, not that it pertains to this question but I got the BH on in 10 min this last time, down from the hour it took me the second time and the 3 hours the time before until one of the guys did it and I watched and "observed".

I also found a finish mower in the weeds, I think I am going to ask if I can tinker with it, front right wheel is off is what I see straight from the get go. There is a nice one for the house yard, but I want this one for the pasture, but that will have to wait until I get the manure spreader chain fixed.

I need to have a thread called Learning to Farm, haha because I learn something new EVERY day, things that most of you already know but would get a chuckle out of. I didn't know that tractors with cabs have heat and AC. I also realize that tractoring on inclines is SCARY (this coming from someone who; rode racehorses, white water kayaked, skydives, base jumps, scuba dives...) I have so much respect for my West Virginia relations that only have hills (you too ShenandoahJoe). I think that the seatbelt as much as the pucker effect kept me on the new seat that I installed on Saturday morning. I have 2 pastures I had not gotten to/ignored because of the incline (which is minimal compared to what I have seen people driving on in WV). The farm owner said to me, "If you want to do this, get your big girl undies on and get your a** in the seat". Needless to say the feeling of getting it done was amazing!:thumbsup:

 

[Learning to Farm]

Here are some weekend photos:
1. New seat! Yeah!
2/3. They had a 55' lift at the farm, so I got some shots from a different angle.
4. The Ford, the wooden sun shade that has been on it forever had the wires snap and bonked me on the head 15 min after the photo was taken.

 

[RoyJackson]

Hope you all had a wonderful holiday weekend. I took the list of words that I did not know and using my TBN iPhone app to read this thread while "inspecting" the set up.

I have included my definitions please correct me if I am mistaken:

Top link- That is the top connection of the 3 points, it does not "lift".
Floating toplink bracket-This is were the top link connects to the implements (on the implement).
A "crank" or a collar - This is on the top link, mine is two 4" or so post that stick out on either side of the long tube that the two joints screw into. I now think I understand why it is so hard to hook that part up... it should be loosened from that part "evenly" not just unscrew the one that is closest to the implement. Is there a tool for doing it? I took an old wrench and slid it down the post and used that for leverage.
ROPS - Still confused about this one, maybe the roll bar?
rockshaft lever - The lever I use to pick up and put down the implements.

I set it using the top link... as best as I could, it is pretty level left to right so I left that alone (the bubble was almost perfect and Roy said not to go ****).

About the time that I got that done one of the guys that sometimes works on the equipment showed up and said looks good. He is not out at the farm all the time and he is always busy, so I ask you guys. (You would think that with me on some really expensive they would have me more supervised, haha).

I asked him to show me where all the zerks are so I greased all of them and then he opened the gear box (?) and I got to add more gear oil (?).

He informed me that the Ford drafts (my definition, rides the hills) the implements but the Kubota does not. I got to "drive" the Ford around because they want me to be able to use both. It was exciting because it is a real manual (the Kubota is a GST) and it has a high and low shifter (there are all sorts of technical terms I will learn when I drive that one.

So on a side note:

Roy, loved your BTW addition... I need those! I do the daily maintenance that is in the owners manual, well daily and I saw how filled the screen gets. Makes me want to wear a dust mask.

Pat32, I finally figured out who the "he" is, its me... but I am a "she" haha! No offense taken, just a little head scratching.

And thanks to all of you for increasing my knowledge, not that it pertains to this question but I got the BH on in 10 min this last time, down from the hour it took me the second time and the 3 hours the time before until one of the guys did it and I watched and "observed".

I also found a finish mower in the weeds, I think I am going to ask if I can tinker with it, front right wheel is off is what I see straight from the get go. There is a nice one for the house yard, but I want this one for the pasture, but that will have to wait until I get the manure spreader chain fixed.

I need to have a thread called Learning to Farm, haha because I learn something new EVERY day, things that most of you already know but would get a chuckle out of. I didn't know that tractors with cabs have heat and AC. I also realize that tractoring on inclines is SCARY (this coming from someone who; rode racehorses, white water kayaked, skydives, base jumps, scuba dives...) I have so much respect for my West Virginia relations that only have hills (you too ShenandoahJoe). I think that the seatbelt as much as the pucker effect kept me on the new seat that I installed on Saturday morning. I have 2 pastures I had not gotten to/ignored because of the incline (which is minimal compared to what I have seen people driving on in WV). The farm owner said to me, "If you want to do this, get your big girl undies on and get your a** in the seat". Needless to say the feeling of getting it done was amazing!:thumbsup:

Very nice post!!

The ROPS (Roll Over Protective Structure (also heard it called Roll Over Protective System)) is, as you wrote, the roll bar.

The top link (upper link...same thing) is a turnbuckle (the threads are lefthand and righthand so it will lengthen and shorten as the turnbuckle barrel (what you call the "crank") rotates. Turning the barrel is how you want to adjust it...not by threading in (or out) one end.
That's a pretty coarse thread, so the top link adjusts pretty quickly. There should be a nut on the threaded rod nearest the implement end. This is a jam nut to lock the toplink, once adjusted to where you need it.
The toplink can be stiff to turn as you're moving the weight of the implement too. If you need a wrench or cheater bar, you won't be the first to need one (or the last). Make it as easy as you can.
That last paragraph also applies to the adjustable link on the right lower link, BTW.

10 minutes hooking up your cutter, eh? That's good time!! Takes me at least that long if everything goes well...plus a lever and some "persuasive" language.

Nice pics...the two center pics look like they were taken from a height. Were you in an aircraft or something?
BTW, were you wearing your seatbelt? If you have a ROPS, you should wear the seatbelt (now that's one thing I am **** about!)