Lift height problems with KK rake on B2620

[seapea]

seapea, from what I can see is that the size of your tractor doesn't have enough 3pt lift height for that model rake. So, if you are set on using that rake you will have to live with constantly making somekind of adjustment to the 3pt. You may just modify your raking technique to lessen the amount you have to adjust the rake. Looks as though maybe the sub cut model rake might have worked out better on your model tractor. I'd bet that the distance from the ground to the draft link pins is shorter on the sub cut model rake. That would allow you to lift it higher with your model tractors 3pt.

Problem is that the sub cut model is only 5', which seems a bit small. How much wider than the tire width is recommend for rakes in order to grab the windrow without having the tractor drive over the windrow? With my 7' rake angled, I get about 16" (on each side). With a 6' rake I would get 11". I assuming with a sub cut 5' rake I would only get 5".

Looks like the gauge wheels throw in a whole other factor.

How so. I think it actually makes things easier. If you are concerned about how high the wheels are off the ground (about 4" in the last pic), they can be lower. I plan on start at 2" and see how that works.

thanks for the help,

Chris

 

[Harvest Moon]

Seapea,

The lift rods on my L3400 have two sets of holes drilled in the clevis end, so drilling another set sounds like a reasonable option to me. I'd be careful to make sure there is enough clearance to prevent binding at all angles of lift though.

As far as the best width rake for your tractor, I'd want a width that is at least as wide as the tractor at the max angle I'd set it at.

The ultimate solution to your problem would be a top and tilt setup.

Good luck, Harvest

 

[Toolguy]

I can see why you want that rake over the smaller model. I would try to make it work on your tractor. It looks to me like the tines have more length than you really need. Why not cut them about 3 inches shorter. Clamp a straight piece of metal across the tines for a guide and then cut them off with an acetelyne torch. Touch them up with a grinder and you have 3 more inches of lift height. Should be all you need.

 

[Racer71]

seapea,

I have been working on the same problem with my rear blade. I will be trying my next solution tomorrow.

Get a longer top tube for sure. They are about $25.

Use the "B" hole on your lower links. You will get more rise.

I am installing adjustable links on both the right and left side. That way I can shorten both of them and get more rise.

Good luck.

 

[flusher]

Is there anything that can be done to get more lift height from the 3PH.
thanks,

Chris

Yes. Longer lower arms on the 3pt.
My Kubota B7510HST had lower arms that were 26" long and didn't provide enough lift for my rototiller.
So I removed those and used the 35" long lower arms from my 1964 MF-135. Problem solved.

 

[seapea]

Seapea,

The lift rods on my L3400 have two sets of holes drilled in the clevis end, so drilling another set sounds like a reasonable option to me. I'd be careful to make sure there is enough clearance to prevent binding at all angles of lift though.

As far as the best width rake for your tractor, I'd want a width that is at least as wide as the tractor at the max angle I'd set it at.

The ultimate solution to your problem would be a top and tilt setup.

Good luck, Harvest

Ah yes, TnT for sure. I was close to buying TnT with a new tractor 2.5 years ago, but never purchased the tractor. I didn't really consider it again this time around (just bought a few days ago) because of the price. Also, local dealers don't install anything other than the Gearmore systems made by Rankin (at least that was the case 2.5 years ago), and I saw a lot of complaints on TBN about leak down with the Rankin systems. I did almost got a dealer to agree to install the IE system, by IE was having business problems at the time and it looked like it would be hard to make it happen. I haven't researched TnT since then, so I'm not sure what the current state of things is.

I did just figure out one problem with my setup, and fixing it improved things. The lift arm pins on the rake were pointing into the 3PH triangle rather than out. I noticed in the picture in the KK catalog that they point out. I made them point out, which means the lift arms are now spread wider. This has the same affect as shortening the lift arms w.r.t. the positioning of the top link. This allowed my to shorten the top link by about 3/4 and inch, while also gaining an inch or two in lift.

A new problem I just discovered is that I can't swivel the rake 180 degress without it hitting a lift arm, so I'm going to exchange it for a 6' rake. Even though it has the same geometry as the 7' rake, it is a better size for the tractor, will solve the 180 degrees swivel problem, and will tilt less when angled. Also, the 6' rake when angled will still be 11" outside my tire tracks. If I had known this to start with, I probably would have bought it in the first place. I didn't take into account that when you angle the blade, the outside tine reaches out beyond the width of the rake frame by a few inches. I though I'd lose a few inches of width on the forward side of the rake, but instead it evens out, or maybe you even gain an inch.

Chris

 

[seapea]

I can see why you want that rake over the smaller model. I would try to make it work on your tractor. It looks to me like the tines have more length than you really need. Why not cut them about 3 inches shorter. Clamp a straight piece of metal across the tines for a guide and then cut them off with an acetelyne torch. Touch them up with a grinder and you have 3 more inches of lift height. Should be all you need.

Yep, I thought about cutting them shorter. Thanks for the tip on how to do this. Now I just need a straight piece of metal, acetelyne torch, and grinder.

I wonder if cutting them would be possible with a circular saw. I have no idea how hard it is to cut through steal.

Chris

 

[638]

Seapea, this problem has been covered in several other threads over the years. There are several things that you can do to alleviate the problem. Install a 'PATS' quick hitch, this will lengthen the lift arms, raising the rake higher. Drill another set of holes in the lift links. This will raise the lift arms higher. Lower the pins on the rake by welding a tab below the present pins and placing the pins about 4 inches lower than they are now. Any one item will help. Doing all three will get it way up in the air.

ron

 

[seapea]

seapea,

I have been working on the same problem with my rear blade. I will be trying my next solution tomorrow.

Get a longer top tube for sure. They are about $25.
Good luck.

Ok. I'll see what TSC has tomorrow.

Use the "B" hole on your lower links. You will get more rise.
Good luck.

Please clarify which you think is the "B" hole. My manual list the "B" hole as the one that is more forward, and my tractor was shipped using the "A" hole (further to the rear). Moving to the "B" hole lowers the lift arm in this case, giving you less height. I think the picture in the manual is labeling the holes incorrectly. Please look at my first post in this thread to see the picture from the manual.

I am installing adjustable links on both the right and left side. That way I can shorten both of them and get more rise.

Is this also on a 2620? If so, let me know what works for you.

thanks,

Chris

 

[seapea]

Yes. Longer lower arms on the 3pt.
My Kubota B7510HST had lower arms that were 26" long and didn't provide enough lift for my rototiller.
So I removed those and used the 35" long lower arms from my 1964 MF-135. Problem solved.

Looks like the B2620 has the same lower arms as your B7510. Which tiller are you using.

Instead of longer lift arms, I think I prefer drilling holes in the clevis end of the lift rods, since you don't lose any lifting ability (in terms of weight) when doing this.

Chris