Lift height problems with KK rake on B2620

[JerryG]

Chris,
You could do what I have seen done to brush mowers to get them set up right. Weld or bolt a plate or angle straight down from the lower link pins on the rake so that you can install an additional set of lift pins. By putting the lift pins about 4-5" lower in these extensions, it will take care of your problem and you can use your 7' rake.

 

[638]

JerryG, I thought that I had sugested that in post #18.

ron

 

[seapea]

I now see my mistake in interpreter the affect the A and B holes in the lower link will have the implement height.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=98014&stc=1&d=12055637 57
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=98014&stc=1&d=12055637 57

I only looked at the affect when the lower links are lowered. When lowered, moving to the A hole makes the lower links even lower. However, once the lower link is raised a little above parallel to the ground, using the A hole starts to have the opposite affect, and will cause the lower link to be raised higher than it would be in the B hole. This is just theory right now (I've been pondering this for a while). I give it a try tomorrow. I also have a longer toplink I'll try tomorrow, although this won't affect the lift height.

BTW, I decided that cutting the tines shorter would be a bad idea. It would cause the guage wheels be lower than the tines, so the tines would not even make contact with the ground.

Chris

 

[seapea]

In my previous post, the references to the A and B holes were reversed. Today I moved the lift rod to the B hole. That raised the lower links by about 1/2" at the pivot point, and raised the rake about 1". Not much, but it helps.

I ordered Pat's, and I'm guessing this will give me about another 1", which should be enough. I think my rake will by about 5" off the ground then.

Chris

 

[kbotaman]

There is another set of holes in you lift arms behind where the lift links coming down from the rockshaft fasten to the lift arms. If you move the lifting rods back to these holes it will increase the lift hieght.

If you make this adjustment watch closely the first time you raise the lift after making this adjustment to be sure nothing binds up or comes in contact with sheet metal anywhere.

One other possible cause to the lifting height problem could be the type of tires you have chosen, the bar/turf tires are a lower profile tire than the turfs or the R4 tires thus reducing the overall height of the tractor and the effective lifting height.

 

[flusher]

Looks like the B2620 has the same lower arms as your B7510. Which tiller are you using.

Instead of longer lift arms, I think I prefer drilling holes in the clevis end of the lift rods, since you don't lose any lifting ability (in terms of weight) when doing this.

Chris

My tiller is a used $300 Yanmar RS-1200.

I had to use the longer lower arms to fit a slip clutch and PTO extender onto the drive shaft since that tiller doesn't have shear pins. Using the longer arms increased the lift height also. The tiller only weighs about 300 lb so even with the longer lower arms the 3pt handled that setup with ease.

 

[seapea]

There is another set of holes in you lift arms behind where the lift links coming down from the rockshaft fasten to the lift arms. If you move the lifting rods back to these holes it will increase the lift hieght.

These are the A and B holes referred to in previous post. I made this adjusment and it added about 1" to the height of the rake.

One other possible cause to the lifting height problem could be the type of tires you have chosen, the bar/turf tires are a lower profile tire than the turfs or the R4 tires thus reducing the overall height of the tractor and the effective lifting height.

I do have bar turfs.

thanks for the info,

Chris