Lifting capacity

[Gravy]

Bob,

I think it's pretty safe to say that as long as you keep an eye on it, and keep your toes out from under it, it's probably not an unacceptable hazard. Just don't be surprised if it cracks next to the weld. Also, "Sometimes the magic works, sometimes it doesn't". Maybe this time it works...

Gravy

 

[BobRip]

I have learned something important here, don't weld cast iron. I really should take a class in welding.

 

[J_J]

I appreciate what the article is saying, but what I am welding is not as critical as say an engine block. I will not be drilling and tapping it or machining it in anyway. I just want it to stick to other metal. Given that is there still a problem? J_J, I am not trying to be difficult here, it just seems that for my limited application there is not really an issue. Or is there?

Bob. That article was an info article. I didn't write it. I thought you were getting serious about welding cast iron.

{Is there an issue] What issue, what are you talking about?

 

[J_J]

Which model PT do you have. I can see that it is red.

I see from the PT owners list that you have a 1430, which gives you 1200 lbs of lift. I would say you were close to the limit on that steel. Is that boom 7 feet? It doesn't look that long in the picture.

 

[MossRoad]

Does everyone know that the PT's lifting setup is a Class three lever setup, which has a fixed fulcrum point, fastened at the frame., The point where the hydraulic cylinders connect to the arms, is called the effort. The load is the third part of the lever, and on the PT, I believe, that it is the point where the Quick Attach is connected. Feel free to correct my observations.

No, but now I do. Thanks!

I tell you, coming here is like going to school and taking classes that I actually enjoy!!!

 

[MossRoad]

I have learned something important here, don't weld cast iron. I really should take a class in welding.

25 years ago I took some welding classes. We never got into welding cast iron because the instructor said it was just about pointless to try without the facilities to heat it up first. We did, however, braze cast iron pieces together. This was on stuff like farm equpment, decorative iron, etc... but an engine block or machined piece was as good as scrap to us.

So, if you are just using cast iron for weights and want to hold it in place, I see no problem with brazing it, or, as someone else suggested, just drill and tap it and use some bolts or pins to keep it from jumping around.

 

[BobRip]

Bob. That article was an info article. I didn't write it. I thought you were getting serious about welding cast iron.

{Is there an issue] What issue, what are you talking about?

I did not think that you wrote the article, although I do appreciate your comments (as always) and the article. I like to know a little about everything. I am not really serious about welding cast iron, probably just do it with the weight.

Issues - Are there other issues besides drilling and tapping for what I am doing. I guess I am concerned than the weld will weaken over time, the weight will fall off, and I will loose it or somebody will try to mow over it.

Many thanks to everyone for their comments. I am new to metal working and there is a lot to learn. I just got a stationary belt/disc sander this week and plan to use it for wood and metal working.

 

[bbabineau]

I see from the PT owners list that you have a 1430, which gives you 1200 lbs of lift. I would say you were close to the limit on that steel. Is that boom 7 feet? It doesn't look that long in the picture.

JJ,

Yes it is a 1430 and the boom is 5 feet from the plate to the tip of the boom. With the arms raised I was able to center the 14 ft beams and they would just touch the front tires when extended perpendicular to the front end of the PT.

Bob

 

[J_J]

Does anybody know if the lifting capacity includes the bucket, or is it the bucket plus what you can safely lift. If you put the forks on, does the lifting capacity remain the same?

Just some observations. Has anyone thought why the 425 get off balance fairly easy. Consider this, the 425 is listed at 1387 lbs. I believe the balance point, or fulcrum is the front wheels center line. I am guessing that the forks weigh about 150 lbs, so if you try and lift close to the lifting capacity of the 425, that would be 800 lbs, but you have to add all the weight of the metal forward of the center line of the front wheels. You are adding another 2 to 3 hundred lbs of weight. It sounds simple to me that at the moment of tipping, or PT pucker, The PT is on a fulcrum with the front wheels, and you have met equilibrium, or a balance point, and if the steering cylinders are not equal, the balance is shifted to the front. You probably noticed that if you straighten up. the balance is shifted, maybe in your favor.

You can exceed, or increase your lifting capacity by adding extra weight to the backside. I am not recommending this , but it is an option that one can use in an abnormal situation. The lifting cylinders probably can handle every thing you can put on the front.

When you are using a boom, it is a good idea to bring the load closer if possible, by tilting the the boom up, which will decrease the lifting distance. Instead of lifting an object at 6 ft out, you can lift more at 3 ft.

 

[BobRip]

I got the 422 stuck this weekend. I was moving some very wet clay and ended up in the mud and parallel to it. Going either direction did not help. I had the back end far enough into the mud so that I could not easily get the weights off to connect the tow strap. I ended up wrapping my tow strap around the 2 inch receiver tube and the cast iron weight, kinda wedging itself between the two. I put just about everything the 4000 pound boat whinch would do on it and then got back in and backed up a little. I got out and retightened the strap and repeated. It took about three tries to get loose. Today I welded a connection point for the strap to the back of the weight assembly (no cast iron was killed during this welding).

After that I used the 4 in 1 bucket to spread the mud out. I found out something interesting about the 4 in 1. If you try to fill it from the front you push the front wheels down and in this case guarantee to get stuck. If you open the bucket and fill it from the bucket bottom going backwards , you actually lift the front wheels and is this case I was able to continue to do some dirt/mud spreading. I could not get all of the pile without getting stuck, so I finished with the minihoe to extend my reach. I still have the 12 inch bucket and am very pleased with it. The dirt is still very uneven, but the owner was satisifed. When it dries out I will go back again and use the box scrapper to smooth it out.

Has anyone used a roller to spread out wet clay? It seems to me that this might be effective. I did some wheel rolling and this helped, but you have to careful not to go to far.