Light weight 3 point offset mower

[bikerdib]

Man oh man, there is no way I'm going to do anything that will attract hogs! The feral hog problem has gotten really bad here in southeast Texas. Less than a mile away across the creek that runs along the back border of this property is a large cultivated field that is usually planted in corn. I'm sure it has hogs in it when the corn is growing.

I planted Bahai grass around one of my other ponds out in the woods years ago. It got all covered over and a pretty green cover. Then one weekend I went out there and couldn't even drive my tractor over all the deep furrows the hogs had left behind. I had to back the box blade into the area and push dirt around just to be able to drive over for the final re-leveling.

 

[Zebrafive]

It would be a good excuse/reason for me to buy a ditch bank, 3pt hitch mounted rotary mower, Woods or Bush Hog, come to mind. Probably the hydraulic drive $$$$

 

[bikerdib]

Problem with the ditchbank rotary cutters is they require more tractor than I have.

 

[the old grind]

The EA sickle bar I linked to on p.2 requires much less tractor and will swivel while cutting 90^ up and 45^ down. It requires much less hp & weight than the OP's tractor. Note that it can be ordered with Tee'd lines to connect/use as would a diverter for a grapple lid. (vs add hydraulics for the tilt :thumbsup

The best info, is in the half (2nd) of this video that many might not stick around for. IMO it's a dandy "Light weight 3 point offset mower" .. , for way < than $4k or I wouldn't bring it up again. (just trying to help, honest)

5 Foot Sickle Bar Mower For Subcompact Tractors - YouTube

 

[bikerdib]

That is the sickle bar mower I've been considering, even before posting here (that or possibly the 6 or 7 foot). I have rear remotes so it will be simple. I'm just inquiring about other options but so far that seems to be the best.

 

[Overtaxed]

Power Trac PT425 with boom mower - YouTube

Why on earth does that thing not have guide wheels on it?? Great idea.. Needs 4 wheels!

 

[Overtaxed]

That is the sickle bar mower I've been considering, even before posting here (that or possibly the 6 or 7 foot). I have rear remotes so it will be simple. I'm just inquiring about other options but so far that seems to be the best.

Sickle bars are also often sold used if you want to look around. I see them commonly for a song. Big hay operations have all moved to disc mowers, so there's a lot of used sickle bars out there.

 

[leonz]

If your going to have a pond dug up it may be better to just have a 5 degree slope
put in on all three sides so you can use a lawn mower.

You could just invest in 2 or three trailer loads of red granite rip rap to hold the edges in place
for the cost of a new sickle bar mower. The rip rap would be at the bottom of the 5 percent slope
and you will have firm ground to mow on and a stone ledge of sorts around the bottom edge.

Mowing by water can get very bad very quickly; in my case I almost rolled over and buried a 1969 IHC
cub lowboy with a 6 foot belly mower as it slid sideways before I could stop and back up on to firm ground.

 

[bikerdib]

Sickle bars are also often sold used if you want to look around. I see them commonly for a song. Big hay operations have all moved to disc mowers, so there's a lot of used sickle bars out there.

Unfortunately, not so often in my area unless they are used up and pretty much scrap metal.

 

[bikerdib]

A few points need clarification.

1, the pond is already 95% done so the suggestions of gradual slope are not really helpful. It is very common in my area to have steep slopes because during the very hot dry summer a gradual slope pond will loose lots of surface size, I see it happen to pasture tanks around here all the time. I have 2 other ponds at my weekend place in the woods with steep banks but I don't worry about mowing most of the banks and just let them go wild, other than trees. Bahai grass is commonly used because it has deep roots and can survive the dry summers, springing back quickly with just a little moisture.

2, cost of the additional piece of equipment is a consideration because I just purchased this property last May and have had a large trackhoe and dozer here working for months clearing brush, digging the pond and moving dirt to build a pad for the future home/shop. Plus, I just upgraded my tractor/FEL/backhoe from a B3300/FEL/backhoe. Money is flying out the door and will get worse once the home construction begins.

3, I will turn 64 in January so I'm trying to minimize the physical labor. Hiring lawn crews to take care of the property will most likely be necessary in the future but I like doing things myself. I will not allow large machines on the pond banks by contractors at that point however. I would not want the risk taken by anyone else so hand trimmers would be their machines when that time comes.

4, I do appreciate all the suggestion!!

 

[the old grind]

I guess we co-typed, and yes what you just said. How about we wait to bug you for pics. Your plan sounds pretty :thumbsup:.

Seasonal water levels are a major challenge to pond-shore maintenance, which evolves as a pond and any buffers mature. Without good inflow and a spillway to maintain level I suggest keeping shoreline tidy might become a hobby in itself. btw, for some of us, cattails are a favorite and there can never be too many.

I have a lot of fluctuation my few ac (former sand pit) that indicates ground water level here. Houses on high ground, shallow well pumps and crock wells were the norm locally until banned. Surface level varies up to 4' between extreme years vs within one. Whatever plans you begin with there will be much to learn. That said, you'll have plenty of time to pick up details.

btw, don't ever lose sleep wondering if you're doing all the right things. An oops here or there isn't going to leave a mark. And, what are we learning about that steep-slope grass cutivar?

 

[Overtaxed]

Sorry if this has already been suggested, but how about a big batwing mower that has enough down tilt to get at the bank? Keep the tractor and the middle on the level, and just let the wing hang over and cut. You'll need to make sure on the angles, batwings allow for some degree of offset, but not huge (I think mine is rated for 10 or 15 degree down angle). Don't know if it would work for you, but if you have use for a batwing in addition, it might be a single tool that can do multiple jobs.

 

[bikerdib]

Years ago, I mowed LOTS of pasture with batwing mowers, anyone remember Terrain King. They are good for going into a ditch but not so much for being on a levee and dropping a wing down the slope. The usual method is for the tractor to be in the dip with a wing riding up the slope. In my case mowing around a pond, it would only work if I had a submarine to pull the mower.

 

[cold1313]

I hope this helps!

55% Hard Fescue, 35% Creeping Red Fescue, 10% Annual Ryegrass