LK3054 Main Fuse burning out at start-up

[drassists]

The main fuse on my 1994 LK3054 keeps burning up during start-up. Also, I've burned out a couple batteries from overcharging --I replaced the regulator and alternator but am still having issues with the battery. The battery charge light on the instrument panel has also blinked on & off a couple times. I'm not sure if all this is connected to the main fuse issue or not, but seems likely since it pops during start up. There isn't any pattern that I can figure out to the fuse blowing (ie, only with newly charged battery, only during cold start or after using the glow plug, etc) and it seems like it is some kind of short. I've already checked the obvious (frayed wire, etc) with no luck. If anyone has experience or thoughts on this, I would appreciate the help.

 

[Looking4new]

Take a good hard look at your switch. Kioti's have had switch problems in the past. Maybe just for ***** and giggles squirt some WD40 or fluid film into the key hole and work it back and forth then try it again.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I presume you are referring to the 60 amp fuse in the wire bundle near the starter? Lets be clear about that first.

When, precisely does the fuse blow during startup? When you first turn the key to ON? When you turn the key to GLOW (or pass through GLOW on the way to crank)? When you start to crank the engine? Immediately after the engine starts to run on its own (vs being turned by the starter)? After the engine has run for several seconds or more?

Why and when did you change the alternator and regulator? What issues are you having with the battery?

The approach I would take is first to check out the charge circuit by monitoring the voltage at the battery. I say this only because you indicate some unspecified problems with the battery and alternator.

All of the other fuses are smaller than the main fuse (they blow at fewer amps) so it is unlikely a short on one of those fuse-protected circuits is the problem. That narrows it down to just a few circuits. but the actual wires could be routed anywhere.

The only unfused loads that draw anywhere near the main fuse capacity are the glow plugs; maybe one of them is bad and draws too much current. It your tractor will start OK warm without glow plugs, try disconnecting the spade connector at the back of the glow plug bus bar, with the engine stopped, of course. Make sure the lead from the wiring harness cannot short out and then try operating the tractor normally to see if the problem is gone. Of course you'll need to reconnect the glow plugs for the next cold start.

Your answers to exactly when the fuse blows may help isolate the cause. Otherwise, it's trial and error: Disconnect something and see if the problem stops, which requires patience with random problems.

I would urge you to think and test your way through this vs just swapping stuff. That's expensive and it's hard to know if an intermittent problem is really cured. Because, problems are often caused by the last thing you fixed.

Scott

 

[DieselBound]

Short in the battery? Low-hanging fruit. Check that battery thoroughly.

Keep in mind that new parts can be bad. It's one reason one should be cautious about swapping in new parts w/o a very good reason for doing so: one problem can be multiplied and then it's off chasing one's tail.

 

[drassists]

First, the main fuse that I have is 30 amp; I'll check again with my service folks to make sure that's correct. Since they sold me the replacement and that was the existing size, I assume it is. The fuse sometimes has blown immediately on ignition and also after cranking for a few seconds. I also thought it might be a glow plug issue but it has also blown when I haven't used the glow plug. I replaced the alt and regulator because I was overcharging and burning batteries. From what I've been reading, I'm going to next go after the ignition switch and see if that fixes the problem. Thanks for the help

 

[ritcheyvs]

Please clarify "immediately on ignition". Does that mean when the key switch is first turned to the ON position? (vs GLOW or CRANK).

When you "haven't used the glow plug", what exactly, does that mean? E.g. you turned the switch immediately to crank? The glow light didn't come on? What?

By the way, I assumed (wrongly) that the fuse was 60 amp like the CKs and DKs but a 30 amp main fuse is correct for your LK, according to the online parts list at MIE.

There could be an intermittent ignition switch issue that would restart the glow sequence but I don't think that's the main problem here if the fuse blows shortly after startup when the plugs should be glowing anyway.

I don't have a service manual for the LKs so I'n assuming they work like earlier CKs and DKs; that could be wrong.

 

[DieselBound]

I replaced the alt and regulator because I was overcharging and burning batteries.

And are you sure the battery you have in there now isn't compromised?

When you turn the key to ON do you manage to hear the fuel shutoff relay activate- hear it click?

 

[Patches]

3054's don't have a fuel solenoid and you don't go through the glow plug section of the switch if just cranking the engine. Using the glow plugs require you to turn the ignition switch to the LEFT and holding it there for as long as you think you need, then turning key to the extreme right to crank

 

[ritcheyvs]

Patches, Thanks for explanation. I found this schematic online that was supposed to be for a 3054 but I guess this isn't correct. Without reliable technical data (like a schematic) I probably can't help the OP much.

By the way, does the 3054 have an electrical shutoff solenoid (as in the schematic) or a mechanical shutoff cable?

 

[Patches]

Patches, Thanks for explanation. I found this schematic online that was supposed to be for a 3054 but I guess this isn't correct. Without reliable technical data (like a schematic) I probably can't help the OP much.

By the way, does the 3054 have an electrical shutoff solenoid (as in the schematic) or a mechanical shutoff cable?

This is an old school diesel; no solenoid, cable shut off