Load knock Bang Bang Bang part 2

[TruChaos]

I think it makes sense to look for the simplest least invasive solutions first.

Over advanced injection timing will cause knocking, melted glow plugs and smoking.

Greg has a good point, make sure the hydraulics issue and over filled oil was in fact a red herring before proceeding on to other things.

I wouldn't pull the motor apart until I checked the injection timing. A bad injection pump could cause the same problem. Were all the glow plugs melted or just one? If it's only one, it could be a bad pump or a clogged injector, the latter being the most likely. Cracking open the fuel line of a completely clogged injector won't change the engine sound, replacing it will.


If all the plugs are melted or showing heat stress, I would immediately check the injection timing. If that is good, I'd replace or repair the pump.

Replacing an injector or a pump is a lot easier than pulling a head.

 

[F100Panel]

One more thought.. Several have mentioned the symptoms and damage overadvanced timing can cause.. I TOTALLY agree with that... Butt.... In most cases if the timing gears get loose, timing gears will slip (same if the injector pump bolts loosen & allow the pump to move / they are slotted & used for adjusting timing with the machine runing.) & ****** the timing. I think it would be a rare thing to see it advance....

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

Gotta agree with F100panel. If it slips its gonna be late on timing or retarded as most call it.

 

[olink]

Once again, I must apologize for not getting back to you in a timely manner. I still get the honor of working withour military which on occassion keeps me away from my computer!
Tonight, I found #3 injector leaking and not spraying a good pattern. so, cleaned it up, got the leak to stop and reinstalled it. I had the rocker arm off, so reinstalled it and tried my best to reset the valve lash...Someone will have to tell me the proper way... Seems as though I couldn't find Top Dead Center .. found the marks on the crank pulley, but ??? Anyhow, changed oil yet again, filled to proper level, cranked her up.... Low power, I'm pretty sure she is only hitting strong on 2 cyl.. and weak on one other? But, the good news is the knocking is gone! Yeah...NOT SO FAST! .... Now the 3 point hitch isn't working well...Hummm...I think I have a blown Hyd seal even if they did all look good. And, I read somewhere about a bad seal causing hyd fluid to be pushed out the rear vent....well, hold on ... here comes Niagra Falls..Hyd fluid style. foaming and sputtering all over the place. Now, time to check the oil level again.... well, since I only ran the thing about 5 minutes, I couldn't tell if the slight increase in oil level was from heat expansion of the fluid or whether I have hyd fluid invading ?

So, We've solved the knocking...but now I do have a Hyd problem..although, the FEL goes up and down just fine. Just the 3 point won't lower and will only just barely creep up with high RPM.

Oh, the glow plugs..yes one is missing the "globb" of metal, all three are in about the same shape. Is there a relay that is supposed to turn off the power to the plugs once the tractor is started? My switch only has two positions both clockwise from key insert. First indent turns on the instruments, second one clockwise is the starter. Is the little read light on the dash a glow plug indicator? If so, mine are on all the time and I'm sure that is the cause for their distruction.

You guys have been great ... thanks for all the advice and troubleshooting ideas. If I don't get this fixed this weekend, I'll have to let here sit for abot a month...yep, military calls yet again. I'm going to pick up some glow plugs and a hyd pump in Shreveport during my stay at Barksdale AFB next week... any suggestion for other parts to have on hand? I know I need some seals for the hyd fittings, a couple more oil filters (are there any I can buy at the local auto parts store?)
Gees...this has turned out to be way to long of a "note" I'll check in later... Thanks again for all the help! Oly in Fl.

 

[greg_g]

Lotsa questions there, I hope I don't miss any. Chinese injectors are so cheap - about $25 bucks - that you're better off replacing than repairing. That should solve your third cylinder problem. Kinda hard to blame a dirty injector tip on hydraulic fluid in the crankcase, but I guess anything's possible.

Overflowing hydraulic vent is caused by driving up steep hills, by overfilling, by thick fluid, by excess air bubbles from a leak. I'm still going with the pump seal, but you should also have replaced the thick Asian fluid by now. If you haven't already, AW32 seems to be the hydraulic fluid of choice for cool/cold climates.

Chinese glow plugs are even cheaper than injectors, about six bucks a pop when I replaced mine. Before putting the new ones in, make **** sure that the little copper sealing washers from the old ones came out of the holes. You don't want two washers under a new glow plug.

Get rid of that Asian ignition switch. Mine leaked 9 volts to the glow plugs in RUN. You might be interested in my Ford Switch Mod. Think the switch itself is about $13, takes maybe half an hour to install. Don't have any idea of which red light you'd be talking about though. A photo would help.

This is getting pretty long, so I'll move aside for somebody else to pick up on TDC/valve lash and recommended spares.

//greg//

 

[F100Panel]

Setting valve clearence is actually pretty easy.. Theres 2 ways to do it.. One, I've seen HarryGoodwrench do it at the NYCTO tech Conference last summer. He demonstrated the way a ( and he is a.. ) Technition would do it.. Top Dead Center for all the cylinders ect. Little more grey matter in the mellon is required but it IS the faster way. For the backyard mechanic...- Requires more muscle than than brains.. Pull the fuel kill knob & watch the valves as you turn the engine over (by hand...). If one valve on a given cylinder looks to be fully opened it's time to set the lash on the other valve on that cylinder... Just keep turning the engine over by hand until you've had all the valves open on one side of the cylinders & you've set the clearence on the closed valve.. It'll take far more turns of the crank to do it that way but theres no thinking involved... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[olink]

Thanks again to everyone for the help. I'm off to redue my valves to see if that will help with the loss of engine power...then once again tackle the hyd problem.

Cheers form Rainy Florida...Oly

 

[mark1]

Hi Olink,,Most likely the red dash light is there to remind you that the key is turned on. These diesels do not need electric to run and we pull the fuel mixture to stop them.People used to forget to turn off the key and next time they wanted to start the battery was dead. Sooooo a light was added on the dash to remind "US" to switch it off.
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