Loader for Farm tractor

   / Loader for Farm tractor #1  

JasG

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Messages
1,431
Location
CNY
Tractor
B2650,
We have a Deere 6605 that we now would like to put a loader on. This is a 95-100 hp tractor with a cab and MFWD. We are going to quote a Deere unit for it, but would like to know what others have used. We want this loader to move silage bales. We would like a "grabber" to handle the bales without damaging the wrap. We would like this to be plumbed into the tractor and not use the rear remotes. Also to have a quick connect on the front.

Just from what I have seen so far I'm leaning towards, Deere, Quicke, or Westendorf.


I also want to avoid any issues as far as the loader being matched to the tractor. My father in law about 8 years ago bought a loader for his tractor and they were not matched up well. The loader set high on the tractor and you could not get the bucket flat on the ground. I would have refused to take it but he dealt with it till he traded the tractor a few years later. I don't know if it was the mounting frame or the whole loader, but it sucked to try and dig with it or move snow. that was a Ford tractor that a Ford/New Holland dealer put on the tractor.
 
   / Loader for Farm tractor #2  
Any time I'm working with after-market loaders there are 3 a few things I take into consideration that keep everyone happy till I tell someone that I wouldn't do that!!!!

1. Check to see what the deere loader will do!!!

They built the tractor that has to carry it and should know where to mount it and how!!!

2. Check there lift height, that also ties to how far the loader might be out the front of the tractor.

This will keep the front from being the pivot point that allows the rear end to need excessive ballast to work well.

3. The lift capacity of their loader.

We have had tractor manufactuers deny warrantee for claims for front end repairs from mounting to big of a loader on a tractor.

After market loader manufactuers get the best bang when they can fit one frame loader to more tractors simply by a different set of brackets. Some of these frames will mount just as good as the manufactuers of the tractor and they might even be building them for the manufactuer!

Some models just don't fit as nice and they might even be a bit to big for the tractor or smaller then the tractor could handle. To big will break front ends and to small might just break the loader. That depends on the operator!!

Come trade in time I like to see the same names on the tractor and loader!
 
   / Loader for Farm tractor #3  
Allied also builds a heavy duty loader. Now Buhler i think.

On the Deere website, there is a chart of which loader fits to which tractor, and the advised rear ballast to go with it.

With a too small loader or a too big MFWD tractor, you'll fold it over at the arc where the lift cylinders attach. With a 2wd tractor its not as critical, because you cant get your full traction of the rear wheels, when also excerting a bending force on the loader frame by lifting the bucket, because as soon as you lift, the rear wheels will loose traction.

I made my own subframe and heavily modified the loader. Right now i'm thinking of building it on the back of a smaller tractor and rotate the seat and controls, and turn the differential upside down. Just like the early tractor based Volvo H10 series loaders. It gets me twice the manoeverability and in general, a tractor rear axle is twice as strong as a front axle.
 
   / Loader for Farm tractor #4  
Contour loader in custom green... or new Freedom Mount with remote push button quick attach and sweet 3-D silage grapple... all fit JD 6605 at the hood level and close to front for good fit and feel...
 

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   / Loader for Farm tractor #5  
Allied also builds a heavy duty loader. Now Buhler i think.

On the Deere website, there is a chart of which loader fits to which tractor, and the advised rear ballast to go with it.

With a too small loader or a too big MFWD tractor, you'll fold it over at the arc where the lift cylinders attach. With a 2wd tractor its not as critical, because you cant get your full traction of the rear wheels, when also excerting a bending force on the loader frame by lifting the bucket, because as soon as you lift, the rear wheels will loose traction.

I made my own subframe and heavily modified the loader. Right now i'm thinking of building it on the back of a smaller tractor and rotate the seat and controls, and turn the differential upside down. Just like the early tractor based Volvo H10 series loaders. It gets me twice the manoeverability and in general, a tractor rear axle is twice as strong as a front axle.


We have 2 Allied/Buhler loaders on our tractors we load equipment with. We are using the 595 with oversize cylinders on 85 hp tractors to get 3500 lb lift. Call 270-524-0385 or email Greg at glsweet@scrtc.com and tell him what you need and he will figure one for you. Ken Sweet
 
   / Loader for Farm tractor #7  
Contour loader in custom green... or new Freedom Mount with remote push button quick attach and sweet 3-D silage grapple... all fit JD 6605 at the hood level and close to front for good fit and feel...
You guys try hard to distinguish yourself in the market, but i'd rather see a more conventional lift cylinder hookup on the boom.. Right now there is a hole in the most important flange of the profile, at the place where the highest bending moment occurs... I hope they are fatigue tested before going on sale... FEM analysis dont mean much in welded structures as most folks assume the same element strength and elasticity for basic material as well as welds.. :)

The major problem with farm loader designs is that you need to get the dump cylinders over the boom, and the boom needs to be arched over the front wheels to allow tilt and steering angles. This stuffs designers up with a very unfavourable dump cylinder angle, to get the parallel action right, and still have holding power on the pallet forks in the lowest lift position.

If you really want to stand out to the competition, develop a farm loader with underlying dump cylinder (breaking out with the bottom end, not the rod end, to increase dump speed, without extra plumbing of suction valves on the bottom end circuit, or a differential circuit...

... -MY- next loader will have it... ;)

==on edit: You're already halfway with your CC370 loader, just put the cylinders underneath the boom and put the pullrods on the front, over the boom... Double the breakout capacity, double the dump speed yet with a smaller cylinder...==
 
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