Loader mounted post hole digger??

[bindian]

Bindian: great set up, and thanks for sharing your very explicit pictures. If you would have a fence line to put up, then I am sure you would switch it to the front bucket side. The Danuser brand is affordable. Using hydraulics comes in handy when stuck in the hole, using reverse.
I have a 3pt hitch mounted auger. It works great if you have only a few holes to dig. It is slow gowing, and getting precisely on the right spot is certainly more difficult. Also, it is very difficult for one person to mount the unit on the tractor, and consequently removing it. Alslo the 3pth up stroke could be barely enough for clearing the ground...

If I had a line of posts to put in............I'll just have my helper pull up enough for me (on the backhoe) to plant a new hole with the backhoe. Swinging the backhole is easier that turning the front tires to get lined up on the hole to be, in my opinion. Guess it also depends on the loader bucket's width. I got a 7 foot bucket and it just doesn't work for me.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I like the back hoe mount, very nice. Plus you could add a extension to dig deeper holes if need be.

Thanks. I like it very much. I have a 1 foot extension on it............but I should have bought a 2 foot extension.
hugs, Brandi

 

[ultrarunner]

Brandi... where did you tap into the hydraulics for the backhoe mount?

Also, do you know how many gpm and the model of the auger?

 

[bindian]

Brandi... where did you tap into the hydraulics for the backhoe mount?

Also, do you know how many gpm and the model of the auger?

My backhoe is powered off of the rear remote with a bolt on lever to hold the remote handle.

It's a Danuser 8300-2. It requires 8 gpm.
hugs, Brandi

 

[ultrarunner]

My backhoe is powered off of the rear remote with a bolt on lever to hold the remote handle.

It's a Danuser 8300-2. It requires 8 gpm.
hugs, Brandi

Wow... never expected such a quick reply.

I think you have the ideal set up and did a great job making it all work.

My Deere doesn't have AUX rear hydraulics... I do have AUX on the front which are rated a little less... mostly for skid-steer type implements...

With long enough lines I could tap into the front... then I would need to figure out something to control since the AUX for the front is meant to be used facing front.

 

[TomSeller]

I have the Danuser Pro series 1025H rated at 2354 ft lbs torque. Right now there aren't enough manufacturers making hydraulic augers in my opinion. There really isn't enough difference between a hydraulic motor and a PTO gearbox to justify the cost difference. The alternate of adding a hydraulic motor to a typical gearbox style makes a lot of sense.

Brandi has the ultimate in flexibility with being able to have the auger on the FEL or on the backhoe. I use the FEL for the auger and the backhoe to lower my fenceposts into the ground. But I make concrete posts that weigh 500 lbs a piece, not something that can be dropped in the hole by hand.

 

[bindian]

Wow... never expected such a quick reply.

I think you have the ideal set up and did a great job making it all work.

My Deere doesn't have AUX rear hydraulics... I do have AUX on the front which are rated a little less... mostly for skid-steer type implements...

With long enough lines I could tap into the front... then I would need to figure out something to control since the AUX for the front is meant to be used facing front.

Thanks!
Just get two rear remotes put on it.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I have the Danuser Pro series 1025H rated at 2354 ft lbs torque. Right now there aren't enough manufacturers making hydraulic augers in my opinion. There really isn't enough difference between a hydraulic motor and a PTO gearbox to justify the cost difference. The alternate of adding a hydraulic motor to a typical gearbox style makes a lot of sense.

Brandi has the ultimate in flexibility with being able to have the auger on the FEL or on the backhoe. I use the FEL for the auger and the backhoe to lower my fenceposts into the ground. But I make concrete posts that weigh 500 lbs a piece, not something that can be dropped in the hole by hand.

Tom,
Have you had any posts rot out?:thumbsup::confused3:
hugs, Brandi

 

[TomSeller]

Tom,
Have you had any posts rot out?:thumbsup::confused3:
hugs, Brandi

I only get about 8 to 10 years on cedar posts and 20 years on RR ties. I only use concrete posts on end caps and corners, then use steel T posts in between. But, no I have not had any concrete posts rot off yet. Some of my land has been in the family 160 years and I figure I would put a stop to the endless replacing of hundreds and hundreds of corner end posts. Funny story is that my grandfather used to pound his fence posts in with a sledge hammer. True story. He stood on top of a hay wagon and pounded the posts in.

 

[bindian]

I only get about 8 to 10 years on cedar posts and 20 years on RR ties. I only use concrete posts on end caps and corners, then use steel T posts in between. But, no I have not had any concrete posts rot off yet. Some of my land has been in the family 160 years and I figure I would put a stop to the endless replacing of hundreds and hundreds of corner end posts. Funny story is that my grandfather used to pound his fence posts in with a sledge hammer. True story. He stood on top of a hay wagon and pounded the posts in.

Wow..........Y'alls cedar is sure different than ours. Years ago, Dad andI helped my Uncle rebuild his catch pen. He told me the posts had been in the ground 30 years. We just moved them to make a bigger pen, turned them unside down and replanted them.
hugs, Brandi