Loader mounted snow blower

   / Loader mounted snow blower #41  
Thanks Leon!

My son's answer is to buy another Ariens 27" walk behind and mount two of them in the bucket with a "funnel" directing snow into the two machines. The Ariens is 13 hp so the 26 hp makes sense. I already own the 66" rear blower and I want to use it since it's in good shape and very basic with easy to find and maintain parts and it works very well. The 4 stroke V twin would be easier to deal with than the hyd version...I need to give that more thought for sure. Chain drive would be easy to rig up and an electric start twin would make life easier too. The one self-contained unit would be easy on/ easy off and maint. would be simple too with all the parts from the local Co-op.

Think...think...think!! Has anyone out there done this type of conversion? Pictures?
 
   / Loader mounted snow blower #42  
Thanks Leon!

My son's answer is to buy another Ariens 27" walk behind and mount two of them in the bucket with a "funnel" directing snow into the two machines. The Ariens is 13 hp so the 26 hp makes sense. I already own the 66" rear blower and I want to use it since it's in good shape and very basic with easy to find and maintain parts and it works very well. The 4 stroke V twin would be easier to deal with than the hyd version...I need to give that more thought for sure. Chain drive would be easy to rig up and an electric start twin would make life easier too. The one self-contained unit would be easy on/ easy off and maint. would be simple too with all the parts from the local Co-op.

Think...think...think!! Has anyone out there done this type of conversion? Pictures?

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The only real world conversion other than a loader mounted self contained 2 stage industrial snow blower I can offer you is a single stage snow thrower from finland that uses an air cooled 13 horse briggs with a chain drive for the high speed single stage rotor.


Also In saying that Mott used a 4 cylinder Wisconsin for a three point hitch Interstater using a a V belt drive to the gearbox
and several folks in Pa. build horse drawn engine powered sickle mowers and I know of a builder of a towed motorized flail shredder that advertises them for sale in the Lancaster farmer weekly rag.

Its simple enough to do you just need the right gearing and V belt pulley size to run a 2 equal sprocket chain drive to run the snow caster.

The steel plate would or could be used to support the engine and upper sprocket mount on a bearing bolted to the steel plate and using a snubber sprocket to keep tension on the chain and use a belt drive with a larger driven pulley to a smaller pulley connected to the upper sprocket that would then rotate the lower sprocket to spin the gearbox as the primary drive method to the chain drive which would save on broken chains too.

Timing cog pulleys and belts could be used bit I am not up to date on their pricing. They would be affected by wet weather unless they were shrouded and would require more work as the motor would have to be directly over the gearbox and would require enough room to remove the plates that hold the cog belt in place.

They use cog belts for high speed rotary lobe blowers to drive them and they have used this method for many years.

All you need is time and multiple pizza and beer bribes for a friend who may have a machinist as a friend if you do not own lathe or milling machine.




The problem with the existing 2 stage ATV/UTV/RTV motorized snow caster design is two fold; where they should be using a closed auger design with narrower flighting to reduce the load on the impellers as very little snow is actually powder snow and the open augers are counter productive with low power machines as the augers flights push the snow away where they should be carrying it into the impeller.

The earlier 2 stage toro units had this down to a science where the cross auger housing had two auger halves that had a solid tube upon which auger flighting was welded too the tube and the the snow had nowhere to go but in the impeller housing and out of the chute. Why they eliminated cross auger design as standard equipment I will never understand.

If you added one of clarences impeller kits( he makes them for the (large rear and front mounts now) to your rear mount you will have a snow blower that will not clog and operate almost as well as the new walk behind track drive Yamaha snow blowers.
 
   / Loader mounted snow blower #43  
I have lathe, mill, TIG, MIG and so on and I'm retired so I have time too but not a lot of bucks.

I have cog belts and a couple cog pulleys at 2.15 to 1 too but wouldn't be the correct ratio so I'd need to get new ones. Belts are pretty cheap...pulleys not so much.

So I'm reading this as your suggestion is a V belt not chain and sprocket. V belts can allow for some slippage if I eat a lawn chair or something that will stop the machine and shear the drive bolt. An idler pulley is also easy to make to tension the V belts. I'll do some research...thank you Sir!
 
   / Loader mounted snow blower #44  
Look at the videos here for Bercomac Snowblowers. Just throwing this in for general info. Two of my friends have them and are very satisfied. One is on an ATV and one is on a side x side.
Look here: bercomac snowblowers - YouTube
 
   / Loader mounted snow blower #45  
i used a loader mounted snowblower for 20 years ,, It was a standard 3pt hitch blower,, for power i made a transmission mounted on the pto and a shaft under the tractor
 
   / Loader mounted snow blower #46  
The Berco blowers are pretty much what I want...just wish they had details on how they are built because the dedicated engine to power the blower makes perfect sense now. I did look at roller chain and sprockets and I like them but I'm wondering if a slip clutch wouldn't make sense instead of the shear bolt. I must have replaced a dozen shear bolts last winter blowing heavy snow. The slip clutch would sure save a lot of hassle and time.
 
   / Loader mounted snow blower #47  
Many years ago a local guy mounted a 4 cyl 120 HP chevy engine on his blower. He bolted an automatic transmission from a 350 chev to this motor and set them on the blower parallel to the auger but never finished the project. His plan was to drive the blower directly from the chain and sprockets on the end of the blower and not thru the gear box. The transmission would give him the various drive ratios and neutral and reverse if needed to clear the auger. Sounds like it might work if the proper gearing can be arranged. Any thoughts?
Al
 
   / Loader mounted snow blower #48  
Now you're talkin Al! Wonder how far that rig would throw the neighbor's cat?

Actually, I was thinking about how the lower unit from a 25hp outboard motor could be used to get power from the B&S down to the blower...not sure the gearing would be correct to make it work.
 
   / Loader mounted snow blower #49  
Now you're talkin Al! Wonder how far that rig would throw the neighbor's cat?

Actually, I was thinking about how the lower unit from a 25hp outboard motor could be used to get power from the B&S down to the blower...not sure the gearing would be correct to make it work.

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Hello Lowrider,

The problem with using the lower end of a 25 horsepower outboard is the torque and lack there of as the very small screw/propeller is pushing an object with a very low draft through a water body with minimal resistance. The lower end bearings are or "were" water cooled.

The propeller screw is cutting through water that is open on all sides and not controlled in any manner and the engine builder decides how many propeller blades the propeller requires based on the engine size and the transmission used.

The majority of the small motorized snow blowers like the Bercomac and the other UTV, ATV, and RTV mounted snow blowers use roller chain reduction drives and they all lose torque and as a result lose net efficiency simply due to the smaller power units used and the poorly designed cross auger system.
 
   / Loader mounted snow blower #50  
Good point Leon. I guess the tried and proven system is the chain and sprocket drive.

What is it about the cross auger that makes it a poor design? I only have 2 here to look at but they both seem to be similar in function if not in design. Both seem to function OK and feed snow into the 2nd stage. The addition of rubber to the impeller blades seems to fix the excess clearance issue. What can be done to improve the auger?
 

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