dfkrug
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2004
- Messages
- 7,529
- Location
- Santa Cruz Mtns, CA
- Tractor
- 05 Kioti CK30HST w/ Prairie Dog backhoe, XN08 mini-X
Plenty of rocks here....I gotta go buy my sand!
Loader pin root grapple
- Thread starter JustGary
- Start date
- Views: 18493
Plenty of rocks here....I gotta go buy my sand!
mykleh
Silver Member
if you can get me the 3-D files in Solidworks I can get you a weight... if you can get the cubic inches multiply it by
.2833 an you now have pounds... based on 3RRL's great bucket grapple I took it one more level and designed a 60" root grapple in hopes of more capacity (lighter) but it actually weights 5#'s more... this is 295#'s without hoses and cylinder...
.2833 an you now have pounds... based on 3RRL's great bucket grapple I took it one more level and designed a 60" root grapple in hopes of more capacity (lighter) but it actually weights 5#'s more... this is 295#'s without hoses and cylinder...
Attachments
mjncad
Super Member
Nice modeling!
All -
Progress on the rake/grapple has been slow lately, but I now have the tractor plumbed with an electric valve to power the grapple. Mrs3RRL did a great job of documenting her and Rob's work on their grapples, so I won't bore you with every detail. However, the valve installation went so well that I thought you might want to see how I did it.
After looking around for a place to put the valve, I decided that under the plate that holds the loader valves might be the best location. I didn't really want it under the frame because I figured I'd just tear it off on a stump or something. It ended up out of the way and still somewhat protected from the weather.
Here's the finished work. The A and B ports have QD male couplers on them, so when I get more time to build a couple of hose plates for the loader arm, you'll see two more hoses coming out of the valve. The good news is that everything is re-plumbed, so I finally got to change the hydraulic fluid this weekend. Read on to see the details.
- Just Gary
P.S. I should probably do something about that unsightly blue on the solenoids. My son attends UF, but orange and blue look different on a tractor.
Progress on the rake/grapple has been slow lately, but I now have the tractor plumbed with an electric valve to power the grapple. Mrs3RRL did a great job of documenting her and Rob's work on their grapples, so I won't bore you with every detail. However, the valve installation went so well that I thought you might want to see how I did it.
After looking around for a place to put the valve, I decided that under the plate that holds the loader valves might be the best location. I didn't really want it under the frame because I figured I'd just tear it off on a stump or something. It ended up out of the way and still somewhat protected from the weather.
Here's the finished work. The A and B ports have QD male couplers on them, so when I get more time to build a couple of hose plates for the loader arm, you'll see two more hoses coming out of the valve. The good news is that everything is re-plumbed, so I finally got to change the hydraulic fluid this weekend. Read on to see the details.
- Just Gary
P.S. I should probably do something about that unsightly blue on the solenoids. My son attends UF, but orange and blue look different on a tractor.
Attachments
Here's a view of the bottom of the valve plate, plus a closeup shot. Note the two unused holes. I really like modifying things in a completely removeable way if I can, even if I know I won't ever remove it. Plus, using existing holes saves me the work...
All we have to do is dodge the bolts, and then the rest of the space is ours!
- Just Gary
All we have to do is dodge the bolts, and then the rest of the space is ours!
- Just Gary
Attachments
I knew I had that 3" X 1/4" bar of steel here for something. A few measurements, cuts, and holes later, and we're ready to weld the two pieces together. I needed two pieces because the 1/4" thickness didn't clear the bolt heads.
The two holes that hold the new valve's base are threaded 1/4-20. Note in the last photo that I had to mill a little bit away from the second plate to miss the other bolt head.
A note about welding: A few years ago I got frustrated trying to weld something and it dawned on me that all of the spitting and splattering was caused by water in the rods. Where I live, everything is wet all of the time. I took every rod I had and put them on a piece of aluminum foil on the gas grill. I turned on the grill, closed the hood, and let them cook for a few hours. I turned off the grill, let them coast for a while, and then dumped them straight into a large ammo can and closed the lid. Now when I want to weld, I get out what I need for that job and close the lid. Welding is fun again!
A note about milling: I have still not sprung for a real machine, but if I can mill something like this, you can. I use a 1958 ShopSmith model ER (way before the Mark V). By keeping the quill in close to the frame, I can control the spindle and table slop enough to do small jobs. Use high speed and very light feeds. I bolt a cheap chinese cross-slide vise to the table to let me do slots and other simple cuts. Use what you have, and be creative. You may put an eye out, but you'll probably at least survive...
- Just Gary
The two holes that hold the new valve's base are threaded 1/4-20. Note in the last photo that I had to mill a little bit away from the second plate to miss the other bolt head.
A note about welding: A few years ago I got frustrated trying to weld something and it dawned on me that all of the spitting and splattering was caused by water in the rods. Where I live, everything is wet all of the time. I took every rod I had and put them on a piece of aluminum foil on the gas grill. I turned on the grill, closed the hood, and let them cook for a few hours. I turned off the grill, let them coast for a while, and then dumped them straight into a large ammo can and closed the lid. Now when I want to weld, I get out what I need for that job and close the lid. Welding is fun again!
A note about milling: I have still not sprung for a real machine, but if I can mill something like this, you can. I use a 1958 ShopSmith model ER (way before the Mark V). By keeping the quill in close to the frame, I can control the spindle and table slop enough to do small jobs. Use high speed and very light feeds. I bolt a cheap chinese cross-slide vise to the table to let me do slots and other simple cuts. Use what you have, and be creative. You may put an eye out, but you'll probably at least survive...
- Just Gary
Attachments
Sorry, but I thought I took a picture of the bolt plate after I installed it, but before I put the valve base on. Anyway, I didn't have any gray paint, so I used the trusty Dupli-Color #1620 "Chevrolet Orange" that I keep around. It matches the original paint incredibly closely.
So here you see the valve base plumbed with QDs on the A and B ports, the P port ready with a hose to go to the Power Beyond output of the existing loader valves, and the T port ready to take the hose that comes from the Power Beyond output.
The last photo shows the valve installed also. Progress!
- Just Gary
So here you see the valve base plumbed with QDs on the A and B ports, the P port ready with a hose to go to the Power Beyond output of the existing loader valves, and the T port ready to take the hose that comes from the Power Beyond output.
The last photo shows the valve installed also. Progress!
- Just Gary
Attachments
No leaks!
Actuating the valve with a spare battery demonstrated that everything works (including that cool orange ram) and the transmission didn't blow up. Time to wire it all up and move on with life.
The runt, Ben, is demonstrating that size 14 flip-flops will easily fit on the brake pedal with the valve installed. Honestly, with the hydrostatic transmission, we pretty much use the brake only when the tractor is loaded onto the trailer (yes, plus grade 70 chains).
- Just Gary
Actuating the valve with a spare battery demonstrated that everything works (including that cool orange ram) and the transmission didn't blow up. Time to wire it all up and move on with life.
The runt, Ben, is demonstrating that size 14 flip-flops will easily fit on the brake pedal with the valve installed. Honestly, with the hydrostatic transmission, we pretty much use the brake only when the tractor is loaded onto the trailer (yes, plus grade 70 chains).
- Just Gary
Attachments
It's now time for a quick diversion. We *need* to change the hydraulic oil. A straightforward job, of course, but fairly slow to put back. I usually siphon fuel from a can sitting on the loader arm into the tank, so I figured it ought to work with oil.
It does, but very slowly, and you have to hold the hose just right so it doesn't let a bubble run up and break your siphon.
"Hey, honey! Hold this hose for me while I go get something." "You're not going to take my pictu..." (snap). "Thanks!"
- Just Gary
It does, but very slowly, and you have to hold the hose just right so it doesn't let a bubble run up and break your siphon.
"Hey, honey! Hold this hose for me while I go get something." "You're not going to take my pictu..." (snap). "Thanks!"
- Just Gary
Attachments
Back to the new valve...
I burned a lot of brain cells wondering how to mount switches on the joystick. The best idea I came up with was a pool ball drilled to mount on a shaft, and mill a cavity in the side for the switches (on a flush-mounting plate). The wires would run through the shaft and come out just above the valves.
Well, what stopped that was the facts that: 1) The existing loader stick has a 1.1" square base, and I don't have any stock over 1"; and 2) The square base has a threaded hole in it for the ball joint for the lift function. Did I mention that the hole is threaded? It's metric. Oh, and 3) I don't actually have a pool ball. Especially not an orange one. Three strikes, I'm out.
But we do have a few small die-cast Bud boxes at work...
Two "sealed" switches with "sealed" caps and a hank of teflon wire for durability, and we just might have something. The box is drilled on the ends to snug against the shaft, and an extra hole lets the wires out. Some heat shrink tubing will keep it tidy. I didn't seal the box, because the water will get in anyway, and I want it to drain. Look at all of that spare room! What else can I cram into that box?
At first I just tied it all up with braided cord, but then decided to use split loom to cover the exposed wires. It looks better and keeps the wires safer. I tapped off of the "work lights" fuse since I rarely use lights anyway. I brought the return side of the solenoids back to the fuse panel also, and lugged it to the frame where Kubota already had a ground wire.
A note on the "Hirschmann connectors" that plug into the valve solenoids: I didn't see any reason for the connectors to point toward the ends of the valve. I turned the inserts around so that they would point inward, making the installation a little more snag proof. The inserts have cutouts for the wires, but the ones I used (18 gauge) fit over the back of the inserts just fine.
I'll have to get used to having a box on the joystick. The buttons are close enough to be easy to reach, but far enough to stay off of them unless you mean to push them. It's ugly for sure, but it works!
A special thanks to Mr. and Mrs. 3RRL for all of their info on their installations. I know I wouldn't have started this project without seeing theirs first and asking them a bunch of questions!
Regards,
- Just Gary
I burned a lot of brain cells wondering how to mount switches on the joystick. The best idea I came up with was a pool ball drilled to mount on a shaft, and mill a cavity in the side for the switches (on a flush-mounting plate). The wires would run through the shaft and come out just above the valves.
Well, what stopped that was the facts that: 1) The existing loader stick has a 1.1" square base, and I don't have any stock over 1"; and 2) The square base has a threaded hole in it for the ball joint for the lift function. Did I mention that the hole is threaded? It's metric. Oh, and 3) I don't actually have a pool ball. Especially not an orange one. Three strikes, I'm out.
But we do have a few small die-cast Bud boxes at work...
Two "sealed" switches with "sealed" caps and a hank of teflon wire for durability, and we just might have something. The box is drilled on the ends to snug against the shaft, and an extra hole lets the wires out. Some heat shrink tubing will keep it tidy. I didn't seal the box, because the water will get in anyway, and I want it to drain. Look at all of that spare room! What else can I cram into that box?
At first I just tied it all up with braided cord, but then decided to use split loom to cover the exposed wires. It looks better and keeps the wires safer. I tapped off of the "work lights" fuse since I rarely use lights anyway. I brought the return side of the solenoids back to the fuse panel also, and lugged it to the frame where Kubota already had a ground wire.
A note on the "Hirschmann connectors" that plug into the valve solenoids: I didn't see any reason for the connectors to point toward the ends of the valve. I turned the inserts around so that they would point inward, making the installation a little more snag proof. The inserts have cutouts for the wires, but the ones I used (18 gauge) fit over the back of the inserts just fine.
I'll have to get used to having a box on the joystick. The buttons are close enough to be easy to reach, but far enough to stay off of them unless you mean to push them. It's ugly for sure, but it works!
A special thanks to Mr. and Mrs. 3RRL for all of their info on their installations. I know I wouldn't have started this project without seeing theirs first and asking them a bunch of questions!
Regards,
- Just Gary
