Log Splitter Project

MadReferee · Jul 21, 2004

SAE 6 = 9/16 - 18

Most Prince valves have ports that are either SAE 8 (3/4-16) or SAE 10 (7/8-14). Adapters for SAE to NPT are common and should be easy to get and fairly cheap.

rswyan · Jul 21, 2004

Mad,

Thanks. In scoping this stuff out it looks to me like SAE stuff is mostly straight thread (not tapered like NPT) and generally uses either o-rings or some type of flare or seat to achieve it's seal - correct ?

SPIKER · Jul 21, 2004

rsyn;

yes they use an adaptor which has an O-Ring and threads into the cylinder and a Flare on the other end, then the hose threads into that flare end. hope that is clear as mud.

Mark M

rswyan · Jul 22, 2004

Mark,

Crystal - thanks /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I think the adapters (big honkin' things) that go into the PTO pump for my Kubota 4690 hoe are SAE on the end that go into the pump but maybe NPT on the other.

BTW, you're pretty much just right down the road from me - I'm in southern Summit county, between, but a little west of Akron/Canton.

Anybody out there know what the pilot load checks on that cylinder that I linked in a couple posts back are all about ?

MMM · Jul 22, 2004

Load checks are for keeping a loaded cyl stroke where it is when control valve in neutral, such as a loader cyl. Usually they're on valve though. BTW, I prefer SAE fittings over NPT as they are less prone to leakage. Given the choice , I order SAE ports and go JIC for hose fittings instead of swivel NPT.

MadReferee · Jul 22, 2004

( I order SAE ports and go JIC for hose fittings instead of swivel NPT.)

Yes, but the problem is that you have to have the non-swivel JIC connectors positioned correctly when they are crimped onto the hose. With NPT swivel connectors you don't have the alignment problem. When forced to use JIC connectors on hoses, I always make sure the other end has a swivel.

If you are building you own hydraulic circuit it is sometimes better to just use NPT with swivels for everything. It sure makes for less headaches.

Woodsman_Pete · Jul 22, 2004

The control valve ($89.99), which has pressure-released detents in both directions:

My idea on using this type of valve was that I could start the split and put the valve into detent to complete the split. Or just manually run the valve until the split completes and then put the cylinder into detent for the cylinder return.

There was a warning that it was dangerous on the NT page about using this type of valve for log splitters .... which I found a little interesting (given that there was no futher elaboration on WHY it was dangerous - and the fact that they offer it for sale anyways) I'm sure I have seen (and used) this type of valve used on splitters ... but it may have been many years ago. I'm curious if anyone sees what the potential issues might be ?


I might be way off on this but if a detent means that you can push the valve lever over the end of the stop and it sticks there until the pressure builds enought to kick it out (back to center). Then I would wonder about this from a safety standpoint on the outbound (split) stroke of the cylinder. We had a stand alone splitter on the farm and you had to hold the lever on the split stroke, "detent" on the return stroke. I liked this because if you had a helper placing logs or holding a stubbon log centered up until the wedge contacted, you might get your fingers or there's pinched. Now I know with any kind of splitter there is a great opertunity for pinched/cut off fingers, but if you have the control lever suck in detent you have to pull it back to stop the cylinder. With the stand alone splitter we had if you let go of the lever on the split stroke it returned to center on its own (I'm guessing a spring loaded piston in the valve) and everything stopped. Just my 2 pennies.

beenthere · Jul 22, 2004

As woodsman pete said, very politely, the two way detent is not a safe splitter valve. You DO NOT want an uncontrolled hands off splitter, while you do something else. Too much potential for trouble and lost fingers at worst.

I find it interesting that you are building without more experience or understanding than you have. Please be careful, as you are playing with fire and do not know what you are getting into. True, you will find out, but it may be the hard way and much more expensive than just buying a splitter designed by experts with experience.
Sorry if this is too blunt. When safety is a real consideration, and I see someone jumping into something where they don't know what they are getting into, I feel some responsibility to speak.
/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

SPIKER · Jul 22, 2004

rswayn:

I grew up borne & raised in LODI, and my sister lives in barberton and I'm up there every month or two. great to know someone is else is close by, "pineridge" lives east of you farther, near canton I bleive. check out ebay and surplus center for good deals, just no stores locally that carry hyd stuff cheaply. I bought my hyd cylinder up at the mall exit at State Street and go north 2 blocks. they were there 1 month back and go there 2 times a year. my sister lives down opposite way on state st on austin drive. I cut up 619 to austin and down to her place.

let me know if there are any deals on 18' 7~10K trailers up there. I need one yet. my sister never knows what to look for, locally I found NEW for 2700 with full flat deck and HD 8 lug rims and elec brakes on both axels. still 2 times what I want to pay... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Mark M

rswyan · Jul 22, 2004

( I might be way off on this but if a detent means that you can push the valve lever over the end of the stop and it sticks there until the pressure builds enought to kick it out (back to center). Then I would wonder about this from a safety standpoint on the outbound (split) stroke of the cylinder. We had a stand alone splitter on the farm and you had to hold the lever on the split stroke, "detent" on the return stroke. )

You are correct - the detent valve I want to use will hold the cylinder on the outbound as well as the inbound stroke. I have actually used commercially built ones like this (Timberwoldf offers this functionality as a option on some of their splitters, albeit with two valves - but the same functionality) There definitely is an added safety aspect to it.

( I liked this because if you had a helper placing logs or holding a stubbon log centered up until the wedge contacted, you might get your fingers or there's pinched. )

When loading or handling logs into or around a splitter, one should NEVER, EVER handle the log by it's ends - this is what creates the potential to have a hand cut off. Handle the log on it's side - much less liklihood of being amputated that. way.

( Now I know with any kind of splitter there is a great opertunity for pinched/cut off fingers, but if you have the control lever suck in detent you have to pull it back to stop the cylinder. With the stand alone splitter we had if you let go of the lever on the split stroke it returned to center on its own (I'm guessing a spring loaded piston in the valve) and everything stopped. Just my 2 pennies. )

Lack of detent valve isn't guarantee of not losing a limb (although it might reduce your chances) - it doesn't take much when your hand is inbetween a log and a sharp splitting wedge - one could just as easily be crushed by being the loader with an inattentive operator.

I appreciate the concern - it is very definitely a valid one.