Log splitter rehab...

   / Log splitter rehab... #1  

mrcaptainbob

Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2002
Messages
592
Location
Jackson County, Michigan
Tractor
Bolens HT-20
Inherited a rather old homebuilt log splitter. It has some strange Sperry Vickers controls on it and a LOT of plumbing. I'd like to replace it all with the simpler detent type valves available today. Looking at the NT catalog I can see many types. How do I choose which is appropriate? I see 'open center', 4 way control, 3 way control, open-spool, 2-way detent (Which sounds like what I'd like). Where can I get definitions of these terms? Also, not knowing what the pump capacity is, how might I figure it's volume and pressure?
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #2  
I'm sure one of the experts will come along shortly, but I CAN start you off...

You do want a two-way valve.

You do NOT want a 2-way detent. The detent keeps the valve open. This is definitely good on the return stroke and a serious mistake on the forward stroke. If you can take your hand off the valve and the cylinder keeps moving forward, you can easily get hurt.

Many places sell "log splitter" valves that have a detent in the return position.

Here's a very good example
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #3  
I have two splitters, one homemade but not by me. Try the arborist.com, they have a complete section of their forum on splitters. These guys build some very unique splitters with great pride, very helpful for any splitter problems, and can help idenify the pump, get numbers, what size cylinder is on it? Most splitters run between 2000 and 2500psi, Max tonnage is based on the cylinder ( radius, squared, X pie X pressure)
large cylinder and a small volume pump = slow cycle time, not less tonnage.
replacing components and still having a matched set of conpontents is what these guys are good at.

How big is the engine?
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #4  
The valve linked in Defective's answer is probably on 90% of the splitters sold.
That's the one I have on mine. As he noted, it allows for hands-free retraction, but you MUST hold the lever for the Power stroke.

Safety Note: The amount of pressure it takes to "kick off" the auto-return is adjustable. Even if it is adjusted correctly, an arm or hand could be smashed seriously if caught in a pinch point while retracting. I have mine set so the least bit of back pressure kicks it to neutral, aka: no movement.

I would suggest showing a picture or make a diagram showing "a LOT of plumbing" before we can tell you , definitively, what you may need.

A photo showing the Pump, hydraulic lines and existing valve would probably be best.

I was using my splitter yesterday and noticed my suction hose that connects to the reservior is looking pretty ratty, I think I'll change it and replace the fluid and filter while I am at it.
I mention this, because you will probably want to do a visual inspection and consider the same filter/fluid change.

.
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #5  
Yes, the one linked in Defective's post is what you want...
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #6  
Surplus Center has some good prices on this kind of stuff when you find out for sure what you want. They sell lots of Prince valves. Check out Ebay too, good deals pop up there from time to time.
 
   / Log splitter rehab...
  • Thread Starter
#7  
You guys are good! Thanks for all the help. That link to Northern is the same one I was looking at in the catalog. Why I was entertaining the double detent is what was cautioned about the detent return. If it hurts going, it can hurt coming. But then, I remember how some oak logs popped sideways when helping the neighbor a couple years. Not a good idea to stand beside this stuff. Would give a real headache while leaning over for the next one and the one on the blade pops sideways. So....single detent it is. Thanks for the cautions on that. Will check out Arborist site and will also post pics of this splitter in the next few days.
Thanks again for the help.
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #8  
mrcaptainbob said:
Inherited a rather old homebuilt log splitter. It has some strange Sperry Vickers controls on it and a LOT of plumbing. I'd like to replace it all with the simpler detent type valves available today. Looking at the NT catalog I can see many types. How do I choose which is appropriate? I see 'open center', 4 way control, 3 way control, open-spool, 2-way detent (Which sounds like what I'd like). Where can I get definitions of these terms? Also, not knowing what the pump capacity is, how might I figure it's volume and pressure?


Try Burden Sales Surplus Center - Hydraulics, Engines, Electrical and More they got it spelled out for you in their catlog.
Item # 9-1262 is a Prince log splitter valve detented on the return stroke. I'm telling you that is cpmpany has got it all.
 
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   / Log splitter rehab... #9  
I'm actually going to replace the valve on my splitter with a 2 way detent. It is much safer than having my wife run the valve. If the wedge hits your hand, no way the detent will kick out until your hand is crushed. As a general rule, especially with my baby's momma running the valve, I never put my hand between the wedge and wood anyway.

Installing a 2 way detent doesn't mean that it will run thru the wood until the cylinder bottoms out. Sometimes it may, depending on what pressure the detent kicks out and how much pressure it takes to split the wood. I just think it would be nice to not have to sit there and wait for the wedge to come up to the wood. With a 2 way detent, I can set it to come to the wood and kick out and wait for me to manually move the valve. I can get other wood ready or do something else while the wedge comes to the wood. For me, to watch the wedge come forward is like watching dough rise.
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #10  
For me that would be very unsafe. I have not seen very many made that way.
 

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