Log splitter rehab...

   / Log splitter rehab... #11  
People still crush their fingers/hands even without a detent on the splitting stroke, so I don't see how it would really be that much more of a safety hazard. It might even be safer as you, position the wood, set the valve and while it closes down on the wood, you step away to get the next piece ready. Most injuries are from inattention to details of operation. If you are prone to this, that is what will eventually get you regardless of how the equipment is configured...
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #12  
With your hand off the valve, you are not ready to deal with problems. I have split a lot of wood with knots and seen it go where ever it pleases. With my hand on the valve, I tend to reverse the ram at the first sign of trouble. I'll stick to my single detent.
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #13  
For a pump you want a two stage pump the first stage gives you a large volume of oil with little pressure(fast travel), when it hits a resistance(the wood) it shifts to a low volume and high pressure. With the two stage you save time on the forward and return stroke. When I built my own splitter I used a return detent valve and a two stage pump. Worked for me. I bought my equipment from Northern.
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #14  
I built mine with a detent on the return side. My splitter is fast enough I'm not waiting for the cylinder to engage the log. So I don't see a need for a detent on the push side. I don't necessarily fear it. Just don't see a need.

My splitter has a 24" stroke. I cut my wood at a minimum of 18". The cylinder will do a complete stroke in 4 seconds. So in theory, I'm only waiting a second or so for the cylinder to contact the wood. I'm slow enough I couldn't accomplish much in a second of free time anyway. ;)
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #15  
Wayne County Hose. Maybe you suffer from "small wedge syndrome" if you feel the need for a double detent valve. I'd try a modified wedge before a double detent valve. I cut all my wood the same length and installed a wedge with a faster taper. Oak wood splits in about 3" of travel and then I hit the retract so it only takes about 3-1/2" of stroke for a cycle.
The screen name "Lefty" may still be available:)
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #16  
Defective said:
With your hand off the valve, you are not ready to deal with problems. I have split a lot of wood with knots and seen it go where ever it pleases. With my hand on the valve, I tend to reverse the ram at the first sign of trouble. I'll stick to my single detent.


I think you misunderstood, you don't split with the double detent, the wedge travels till it contacts the wood then kicks out at the first backpressure. You still have to manually re-apply the lever/control the valve to split the piece of wood just like with a single detent valve.
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #17  
Ah...

OK...

Still don't like the idea too much. I'd hate it if something happened to stop it from kicking off.

All my splitters have had two-speed pumps and most have had adjustable backstops. Just seems like a bad idea to let the ram work on its own in the forward direction.
 
   / Log splitter rehab... #18  
Wayne County Hose,

So what are you going to do with your free hand while you're waiting those agonizing seconds for the wedge to come up to the log? What better things does it have to do? It can't be that "hard" to hold the lever for that little bit... Or is it just a little bit of laziness?

A detent on the push stroke is suicidal at worst and foolhardy at best. Would you trust your healthy hands to the faith in that detent kicking out at the "proper" time?

Come on man, get your head on straight. I know that you're smarter than this, at least I hope you are... maybe not?

Sorry to be so harsh, but sometimes it takes a 2x4 between the eyes to get the mule's attention...

In my life, I've split a LOT of wood with a splitter, and I've pinched my fingers once with my splitter... and to this day I don't know exactly how it happened or why I had my fingers back there. I know for sure it scared the **** out of me. And, I thank God that I had the presence of mind to let go of that lever, and THANK GOD it didn't have a detent. Don't believe for a second that you'll NEVER have your fingers in the wrong place... it happens, believe me. And it only takes one time. I got lucky. If you put that valve on your splitter, I guarantee that you won't think fast enough to kick that thing out of detent before your fingers are smashed or severed.

Do the math... even if you can get that detent to kick out at as low as 100psi, with a 4" cylinder that's about 1256 pounds of force that your fingers might have to stop. I don't know about yours, but mine wouldn't be able to do it without letting out some red juice I'm sure.

And, I'm pretty sure that when you yell, your wife will let go of that lever RIGHT NOW. That detent doesn't hear so well... you'll have to yell pretty loud.

Don't do it, OK? :eek:
 
   / Log splitter rehab...
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Lots of great info from you guys. Have a better understanding of the foward detent use now. Thanks for that. As for the Arbor.com site, it started asking for credit card info as if I want to purchase stuff. Opted out of it all.
Here's some pics of that splitter. Also on display is the helper "Popeye".
It's short cylinder, I think 18". Would prefer 20, but this'll work. I believe the side bolts are 1/2". Might that be an indicator of a higher PSI rating? I can't find any markings on the cylinder. The engine will soon be swapped out for a fresh rebuilt Wisconsin. This B&S is really tired as it goes through a couple qts in a half hour. But then, there's no problem with bugs in the area either!
 

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   / Log splitter rehab... #20  
CaptainBob,

:eek::eek::eek:Surely that isn't copper tubing that is being used for the hydraulic lines, is it?
 

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