log splitter wedge design

[wowbw7]

that's quite the rig you've got there. i'm sure it works well for you but in my case i'm trying to get all the info i can on improving or modifying a copy of the one pictured. my backhoe bucket has a 4-1/2" cylinder, 27" stroke, but i'm not sure on the psi...maybe between 2500 and 3000. the cost, with new metal, should be about $300. were cost no object, i'd have a 30 ton unit sitting in my shop, but such is not the case. but where's the fun in 'buying' when you can 'build' , right?

 

[WilliamBos]

Thus design seems to work well. Be interesting to see how long it stays sharp, and how long the wedge lasts.

 

[Berniep]

For each pass of the splitter I get 4 pieces of wood. When the push plate cycles back the area is clear and I slide the nsplit half back. No having to catch and hold pieces so you can resplit them.

I have been thinking a lot lately about building something like that. Did you use any kind of special steel in the blades? Maybe hardfacing rod on the leading edges? Did you angle them at all to prevent wedging?

 

[denmansoft]

I've been looking at various designs.
One thing I've seen is some log splitters have a moving wedge and fixed block to push against. Others have a moving pusher block and fixed wedge.
The fixed wedge idea seems to be self unloading, at least for a while, until the pile gets big. Also if a peice doesn't split clean the next peice will just push it through.

The moving wedge you would have to clear your input area each time?

Any other thought on this?

 

[Bill Barrett]

I've been looking at various designs.
One thing I've seen is some log splitters have a moving wedge and fixed block to push against. Others have a moving pusher block and fixed wedge.
The fixed wedge idea seems to be self unloading, at least for a while, until the pile gets big. Also if a peice doesn't split clean the next peice will just push it through.

The moving wedge you would have to clear your input area each time?

Any other thought on this?

I like wedge on ram, that way you don't have to bend down and pick up wood to split again.
On large logs I split up to six times. Wood will stay on beam, back up, and split again.

 

[wowbw7]

Bill, those are my thoughts. with a table on each side of the beam, all the work is right in front of you. turn around and stack the splits on a pile, turn the other way and grab a new chunk.....

 

[Cord]

I have been thinking a lot lately about building something like that. Did you use any kind of special steel in the blades? Maybe hardfacing rod on the leading edges? Did you angle them at all to prevent wedging?QUOTE]

The steel is regular A-36 1/2" plate. I put a very sharp edge on the plates and did hardface the edge so it would stay sharp. The plates must splay apart or the wood will wedge. My first design did not splay the plates enough and it took too much power to split the wood. You can see how much the throat opens up in my current design.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I don't know if you need to think about this so much. We're talking about the power of hydraulics here. If you select a 4" cylinder and decent parts that will push to 3,000psi, you'll have more than enough power. If you buy cheap parts that can't produce pressure, then you need to get inventive with your wedge design.

I agree
The wedge does not need to be anything other then straight. Mine works fine on a 4" ram. Its not overly sharp either, about 1/16" wide on the front edge. You can cut a piece of 5" ash cross grain if you like, just shear it off. And my relief is set at 2250 psi, relatively low.
I also favor the moving wedge for re splitting without doing anymore then turning the block 1/4 turn. Yes you have to clear that area manually but I favor that over picking the pieces off the ground. Mine has a stripper on it incase the block sticks to the wedge, when you retract the ramit strips it off. I usually throw the pieces across the splitter into my loader bucket and grab the next round while the ram retracts. Every 15 blocks or so I go straighten up the wood in the bucket. (my 4 year old is not alot of help yet )

The self clearing of the fixed wedge design would not last too long. A table on that style is a good idea, but works best with a helper, as the splitter would have to move himself from the splitting area to the table to clear it.
I put a table across from the splitting area on mine, so large blocks get split in 1/2, the one 1/2 sits on the table while I split the other 1/2 a couple more times and fire it into the bucket. then I don't have to pick the 2nd 1/2 up from the ground again. I hate working at my feet.
Ken

 

[F.L. Jennings]

I added 3" to the height of my wedge this past weekend. I split a lot of Hickory and it is very fibrous. When I am splitting larger stuff 18"-24" the splitter will push it through the wedge but the part of the wood above the top of the splitter wedge often has many uncut fibes that hold the two halves together. I've had to cut these with an ax or hatchet to part them in the area that was avove the wedge.

I'll still have to do that on some larger pieces but now the overall height is about 15-16".

Make your wedge tall enough unless you are splitting much smaller wood.

 

[wowbw7]

wedge height was another concern i had, but 16".... wow! i was torn between 8 and 12 inches.
i, too, plan on incorporating a 'stripper' on each side of the wedge to un-stick the ones while the wedge retracts.
F L, did you catch my idea on your other post on the adjustable cables?