logging

/ logging #21  
JPM where would the fun be in that getting them skidded out by someone else? As long as he takes some of the advice presented on here he should be ok. Taking the tractor down to the logs on a hill wouldn't be a good idea.
 
/ logging #22  
I would rig up a small skyline setup . Attach as high as you can in the base of the ravine and as low as possible on the hill top this will lower the effective pulling angle and make it easier to haul them up with snatch blocks and your tractor. I use a wire rope puller for the overhead line and chain lever hoist to lift the log then attach a cable to the overhead pulley and pull with the tractor.
 
/ logging #23  
It looks like you have a Deere 3038 (37hp) tractor. I think that this compares with my New Holland TC40D (40hp). I use pallet forks extensively to handle logs and other heavy items. I use real forks not the clamp on bucket type. Moving logs with the forks works pretty good even on tough terrain. Here are some things that you can do to help you be successful. A) Use the ROPS and the seatbelt. I'm constantly amazed at how many people I see riding around with the ROPS folded down. B) Carry the load very low to the ground. This greatly lowers the center of gravity and reduces tip overs. If you sense trouble drop the load imediately. Don't dump it just push straight down this will stabilize the tractor and give you time to figure out how to proceed. C) If your tractor has more than one width spacing for the wheels make sure that you are using the widest one. D) When moving up and down steep slopes go straight up and down. Your tractor is much less likely to flip endways than sideways. Also keep the load on the uphill end of the tractor. If you have the load on the downhill side you might end up doing a nose wheelie which is bad. E) Clear a smooth path/road for hauling. Many tip overs are caused when a wheel drops into a hole or runs over a stump. Plan your route to avoid obstacles. F) Put some counterweight on the rear of the tractor. My box blade weighs about 600lb and works very well for this. Remember to carry you counterweight as low as practical to. This can also be dropped to the ground in case of emergency. G) Avoid traversing sideways on the hill side as much as possible. H) Move slowly, this will give you more time to react if things go wrong. I) Don't work alone if you do not have to. J) Listen to your but! If the tractor starts to feel light in the rear or feels as though it may be tipping DROP THE LOAD!. My hand stays on the loader control with the load about 6" from the ground. At the first hint of trouble I will drop the load to the ground then figure out how to continue. My Dad is a retired equipment operator (I did it to for awhile). His first instruction to me was to always keep all loads as low as possible no matter what kind of machine I am operating. If things go to **** drop everything that you can. This advise has served me very well and I think it will help you to.
 
/ logging #25  
I saw a local rental company is selling a use Farmi winch. So I figure they must rent them. Maybe you can call a few places and rent one for the day.
 
/ logging
  • Thread Starter
#26  
that is good advice thank you everybody i dont have school today so i plan on doing some work before i go hunting tonight. i am planning on making a log carrier. like the log hog that northern tool sells on their website so i hope i can make it strong to get the logs to where i need to go!
 
/ logging #27  
You have been given some excellent advise here, especially the note from Andy above.

I use forks too. So, because of obstructions along the trail, I cut all the logs to about 80 inches (4 times 20 inches). I then carry a few of them at a time out of the woods, never dragging them, and stacking them as high as possible until I can get around to further processing. 3 saw cuts gets four chunks out of the 80 inch log. I am going to try doing the final cuts and any needed splitting, starting this year, on a concrete slab in front of an open-sided building I have. Then I will simply push the final sized pcs into the shed on the concrete and pile them. I think that piling is as good as stacking carefully, but may take a bit more room because of the randomness. BTW, all the wood is dry already as it has been dead quite a while, so I am not concerned with fresh cut sopping wet wood in a pile getting moldy.

One thing I want to add to the forks is some "sleeves" on the sides, of 1/4" ARS200 steel, with a serrated top edge, to grip into the logs so they don't slide off the sides of the forks on sidehills. I have the sleeves all designed and just have to get around to cutting them out.
 
/ logging #28  
If you drag them in the dirt, go and buy 50 chainsaw chains and a professional sharpener, because every single cut will dull out your chain.
Seriously, you'd be better off letting it there than dragging it thru the dirt.
If you can keep them out of the dirt, it will be worth it at most any cost. :thumbsup:
 
/ logging #30  
If you drag them in the dirt, go and buy 50 chainsaw chains and a professional sharpener, because every single cut will dull out your chain.
Seriously, you'd be better off letting it there than dragging it thru the dirt.
If you can keep them out of the dirt, it will be worth it at most any cost. :thumbsup:

Keeping them out of the dirt is nice if you can do it, but skidding logs is pretty much the way most logs are handled. It isn't as bad as you make it out to be, but a lot of the end result depends on the circumstances, equipment, land type, weather (mud or snow or dry or??) and whatever else. Lifting one end of the log on the 3 pt and slowly skidding it out (being careful to move slow you you do not catch the log and flip the tractor over backwards) is a very decent and common method.

Basically everything Andy said was spot on. But the one point about flipping the tractor forward is not too likely. I'm not sure if there has ever been a tractor with a loader flip over frontwards. It's just not likely given the physics of it. If the tractor goes forward at all, the loader will stop it, pretty effectively. Very not likely...but there is probably one guy out there who had it happen just to prove me wrong ;). Tractors flip over back or roll over to the sides, they really don't flip forwards.

Watch your path closely for obstacles, work uphill/downhill as much as possible, and above all move slowly. The keys to keeping the shiny side up.
 
/ logging #31  
If you drag them in the dirt, go and buy 50 chainsaw chains and a professional sharpener, because every single cut will dull out your chain. :thumbsup:

Wow. I don't know where you skid your wood. For your statement to be really true the log must be dragged through freshly pored concrete that you let dry and then cut up for firewood.

Unless you drag it through mud as thin as pea soup it will not be bad at all. Just pick the time when the ground is dryer or frozen and you are home free.
 
/ logging #32  
a few years ago, my neighbor skidded about 5 nice logs out for me. They were 20 inch diameter Maple logs. He skidded them in winter, and they were dragged in the dirt usually.

I went to cut them the following summer, and my Husky 357XP dulled out the chain instantly. I swapped the 3 sharp chains in that i had on hand, and I only had about 6 saw cuts done. :mad: I then went and drug them out to the woods and let them rot. No way was I ruining all my chains and time sharpening the chains for that mud-wood.

Just my opinion, but loggers cut their logs before they drag them thru the dirt. They don';t have any plans of sawing them after they drag them thru the dirt, so they don't care if they are dirty. Sawing firewood out of logs is a whole different game. You can buy Carbide tooth chainsaw blades for like $100+ each, that might be worth the investment if you drag them in dirt. there is also alot of different chainsaw chains, some can handle dirt and cut slow as a turtle, and some cut super fast and can't take dirt---thats what I use, but I forget the technical name for the chainsaw chain itself.
 
/ logging #33  
a few years ago, my neighbor skidded about 5 nice logs out for me. They were 20 inch diameter Maple logs. He skidded them in winter, and they were dragged in the dirt usually.

I went to cut them the following summer, and my Husky 357XP dulled out the chain instantly. I swapped the 3 sharp chains in that i had on hand, and I only had about 6 saw cuts done. :mad: I then went and drug them out to the woods and let them rot. No way was I ruining all my chains and time sharpening the chains for that mud-wood.

Just my opinion, but loggers cut their logs before they drag them thru the dirt. They don';t have any plans of sawing them after they drag them thru the dirt, so they don't care if they are dirty. Sawing firewood out of logs is a whole different game. You can buy Carbide tooth chainsaw blades for like $100+ each, that might be worth the investment if you drag them in dirt. there is also alot of different chainsaw chains, some can handle dirt and cut slow as a turtle, and some cut super fast and can't take dirt---thats what I use, but I forget the technical name for the chainsaw chain itself.

The loggers I know usually sort and cut to length on the landing, ie, after skidding. Guys in the firewood business routinely cut skidded out logs.
Normal skidding does not incase the bark with dirt the way you describe. The conditions must have been terrible.
To bad you lost those logs.
 
/ logging #34  
Keeping them out of the dirt is nice if you can do it, but skidding logs is pretty much the way most logs are handled. It isn't as bad as you make it out to be, but a lot of the end result depends on the circumstances, equipment, land type, weather (mud or snow or dry or??) and whatever else. Lifting one end of the log on the 3 pt and slowly skidding it out (being careful to move slow you you do not catch the log and flip the tractor over backwards) is a very decent and common method.

Basically everything Andy said was spot on. But the one point about flipping the tractor forward is not too likely. I'm not sure if there has ever been a tractor with a loader flip over frontwards. It's just not likely given the physics of it. If the tractor goes forward at all, the loader will stop it, pretty effectively. Very not likely...but there is probably one guy out there who had it happen just to prove me wrong ;). Tractors flip over back or roll over to the sides, they really don't flip forwards.

Watch your path closely for obstacles, work uphill/downhill as much as possible, and above all move slowly. The keys to keeping the shiny side up.
More than one: YouTube - Tractor-Truck-Car CRASH VOL2
 
/ logging #35  
I find that a 100' length of 3/4 nylon rope or 1' poly is a lot lighter to handle than chain for those long pulls. Just use a short chain choker at the log itself to save the rope (and learn some basic knots before starting). It can be hard finding a big enough snatch block for big rope.
Our local Canadian Tire store has 8000lb electric winches on sale for under $400 this week. Not the highest quality, but Harbour Freight might have something similar. (I have two $400 winches that work almost as good as my 30yr old Ramsey winch)
Most times when a log is dirty you will find that one side is worse than another. When you cut, make sure that the chain is entering the log from the cleanest side and exiting the dirty side. This way the sand is being thrown clear, instead of being dragged thru the cut.
Often times a good heavy rain will clean the top side (or you can use a hose if available).
 
/ logging #36  
You do not need a logging winch. Any winch will do especially if you couple the operation with something such a a Logrite Arch. I do not know your skill level or exactly what type of terrain you consider 30 degrees. I would not recommend anyone going down to skid logs w/o knowing the above. The safest way is to have the logs come to you. You can also rig up an arch as a tag trailer which takes most of the friction out of pulling.
Skidding in snow does not make logs any cleaner contrary to some beliefs. Micro pebbles attach themselves to the snow and ice and come spring, you have a pretty dirty log after all this stuff melts but the pebbles are still clinging to the log. What snow does do however is make for easier skidding. An arch is your best way if you want to go down and get them and will keep the logs clean. Do not risk your life on compromise for this type of job gives no quarter.
 
/ logging #37  
a few years ago, my neighbor skidded about 5 nice logs out for me. They were 20 inch diameter Maple logs. He skidded them in winter, and they were dragged in the dirt usually.

I went to cut them the following summer, and my Husky 357XP dulled out the chain instantly. I swapped the 3 sharp chains in that i had on hand, and I only had about 6 saw cuts done. :mad: I then went and drug them out to the woods and let them rot. No way was I ruining all my chains and time sharpening the chains for that mud-wood.

Just my opinion, but loggers cut their logs before they drag them thru the dirt. They don';t have any plans of sawing them after they drag them thru the dirt, so they don't care if they are dirty. Sawing firewood out of logs is a whole different game. You can buy Carbide tooth chainsaw blades for like $100+ each, that might be worth the investment if you drag them in dirt. there is also alot of different chainsaw chains, some can handle dirt and cut slow as a turtle, and some cut super fast and can't take dirt---thats what I use, but I forget the technical name for the chainsaw chain itself.

DM, were these Husky chians by any chance? Most Husky chains sold out of the Husky place is full chisel and not chromed semi chisel. This could explain why your chains dulled out so quickly. Also, I always carried a small hand axe in dirty locations so I could lop off the first layer of bark when cutting in soft earth dragged logs. We also used a pressure washer on site for especially dirty turns.
 
/ logging #38  
Basically everything Andy said was spot on. But the one point about flipping the tractor forward is not too likely. I'm not sure if there has ever been a tractor with a loader flip over frontwards. It's just not likely given the physics of it. If the tractor goes forward at all, the loader will stop it, pretty effectively.

It is unlikely to overturn frontwards but that is not the only danger. I have had personal experience with carrying heavy loads downhill that did not go as planned. I was moving a heavy plow with my loader. On level ground all was stable. When I started down a slope the C.G. shifted forward making the rear end very light. I was riding the front wheels down the hill ("nose wheelie") until I could drop the load. I also found that the rear wanted to start sliding sideways in this situation. This whole process reverses itself when keeping the FEL load on the uphill side. The C.G. shifts backward some placing more weight on the rear wheels thus increasing traction and stability. Personally, I have much better luck keeping the FEL load on the uphill side.
 
/ logging #39  
a few years ago, my neighbor skidded about 5 nice logs out for me. They were 20 inch diameter Maple logs. He skidded them in winter, and they were dragged in the dirt usually.
Too bad for having lost the logs. They might have been dragged through soft mud that then froze onto them. Then you were trying to cut wood coated with that stuff. I always skid out my logs and never had any problems like you describe. It may have been something to do with the chains as it was mentioned above, but that I have not experienced.
 
/ logging #40  
a few years ago, my neighbor skidded about 5 nice logs out for me. They were 20 inch diameter Maple logs. He skidded them in winter, and they were dragged in the dirt usually.

I went to cut them the following summer, and my Husky 357XP dulled out the chain instantly. I swapped the 3 sharp chains in that i had on hand, and I only had about 6 saw cuts done. :mad: I then went and drug them out to the woods and let them rot. No way was I ruining all my chains and time sharpening the chains for that mud-wood.

Just my opinion, but loggers cut their logs before they drag them thru the dirt. They don';t have any plans of sawing them after they drag them thru the dirt, so they don't care if they are dirty. Sawing firewood out of logs is a whole different game. You can buy Carbide tooth chainsaw blades for like $100+ each, that might be worth the investment if you drag them in dirt. there is also alot of different chainsaw chains, some can handle dirt and cut slow as a turtle, and some cut super fast and can't take dirt---thats what I use, but I forget the technical name for the chainsaw chain itself.

deadman
Something just doesn't add up here.
Logging by lifting one end of a log and letting the other end drag will not allow much dirt to accumulate on the log (just a little on one side at one end). Nothing that would warrant what you experienced. Your logs were not pulled out from your woods in a normal "logging" manner.
Too bad you formed your opinion on dragging logs from this one unfortunate incident. Would be interesting to learn just how your neighbor did that dragging for you.
And on top of that, usually some time out in the rain will wash most of the dirt off for you. And as has been mentioned, removing the dirt before plunging a chainsaw into it will benefit the experience considerably.

I've dragged logs out for firewood for going on 40 years, and never (NEVER) have had an experience where I felt the chain sharpness was compromised by some dirt from skidding. I have used the axe to remove some bark with dry dirt imbedded. The only thing that will quickly dull a chain is letting the saw drop through the cut and into the ground/dirt below. That I avoid as if my life depended on it. :) But I've been around those cutting/bucking logs that just can't make a cut through a log without letting the chain get in the dirt/ground. It is somehow built into their technique. They either continue to cut with a dull chain or have to go get a sharp chain on the saw after each cut. :confused3:
 
 

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