Logsplitter 2.0

[rswyan]

Back around ten or so years ago - before we got free gas - I was planning to heat with wood and I started to build a log splitter. Was going to be a three point mount for the tractor ... but powered by a (relatively new) 6.5 BS Intek engine I had from an old leaf vac.

Pretty much got all the parts for it and actually had the frame and 3PH fabbed up with the wedge, attachment point for the hydraulic cylinder, and table for the control valve all welded. Had the frame stored over in the woods about 300' from the house and some derelict came along and stole it apparently.

Recent (gas) furnace problems - and obtaining two very large (40" +) oak tree for firewood - have motivated me to start working on version 2.0 since it would be handy tool/resource to have. The only major thing I lacked was the H-Beam ... which I resolved the other day, courtesy of friend who hooked me up with the folks over at a fab shop where he used to work.

So I have the engine, the pump, the hydraulic cylinder and valve etc. to basically build the thing.

Judging from recent events, I probably should have moved on completing it about two months ago ...

Originally I was going to use a different hydraulic tank but I had 56" long piece of 1/4" wall 6" x 6" square tube that I had laying around and figured: Why not make that the tank/axle/crossbeam ?

So I drilled it and welded in pipe flanges and boxed the ends with some 1/8" sheet.

It should provide around 7.5 gallons of capacity, with an overall system capacity of around 8 to 9 gallons.

The H-Beam is a piece of wide flange 8 x 6 1/2 W28. It's almost 8' long - so it will have to be cut down to length.

 

[motoman3b]

Nice I too have been thinking about building a three point hook up splitter with its own engine, looking forward to seeing how you build yours keep us updated!

 

[rswyan]

Been trying to come up with a good way to remove rust and mill scale - preferably one that doesn't require a whole of time, effort, and user-intervention. Muriatic acid is presently not option due to the weather outside.

Was doing some reading the other day and ran across flame cleaning as a method to do this ... so decided to give it a try:

Appears to work fairly well ... although I'm not entirely sure all the mill scale is being removed. The following picture is a section of the H-Beam after I flame cleaned it and hit it with a wire cup brush in an angle grinder:

 

[ajmaxham]

How did you clean the inside of the 6x6 square tube?

It looks like you have a suction port and return line port -- you will also need a fill and vent port in the top of the square tube. Maybe a drain plug in the bottom of the square tube.

 

[rswyan]

How did you clean the inside of the 6x6 square tube?

I haven't yet.

When I do it will be with seven gallons or so of white vinegar - which works remarkably well at removing rust.

It looks like you have a suction port and return line port ...

Correct.

-- you will also need a fill and vent port in the top of the square tube. Maybe a drain plug in the bottom of the square tube.

The pipe flange for the drain hole is already welded in there (on the bottom of course) ... and the hole is cut for the vent/filler - it's on the other side of the H-Beam out of view. I'm waiting on a weld-on riser from Surplus Center for the vent/filler/strainer assembly so I can install it.

 

[LD1]

What pump are you using? IF an 11gpm 2-stage, you should be fine. But anything bigger and I would want more oil capacity.

And why remove the mill scale? Just knock the rust off and a good paint should work just fine for a log splitter.

 

[The Fred]

It's nice to have a clean rust free metal project but there is little chance of that beam rusting through in your lifetime.

Build the machine and disassemble in the spring and have sandblasted.

Looks good! Fred

 

[Jw5875]

You have a great impressive and quality project here. Complete it with a set of filters for both supply and return. I welded a 2" bushing into the tank for the filter to screw into. You can buy a return filter kit also.
Both will make your splitter last a long time!

jw5875

 

[LD1]

Since it is impossible to totally clean out the inside of the beam as well, I would also advise a suction strainer as well as the return line filter.

Another question, how are you building? Are you attaching the wedge to the beam and pusher to the cylinder? or wedge to the cylinder and pusher to the beam?

I dont know if you saw my build thread, but may give you some more ideas.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/305998-my-logsplitter-build.html

 

[vwnotrunning]

I keep telling myself I will get around to building a new splitter, but life keeps getting into the way. One thing I want to incorporate is the ability to put a pipe bending head on it to have hydraulic pipe / rebar bender also.

 

[rswyan]

I'm afraid my replies will have to be brief as the low tonight is supposed to dip below zero and I need to go gather wood. Will try to update later today/tonight or tomorrow.

What pump are you using? IF an 11gpm 2-stage, you should be fine.

11 gpm Barnes two-stage

But anything bigger and I would want more oil capacity.

Yup.

And why remove the mill scale? Just knock the rust off and a good paint should work just fine for a log splitter.

Because it will eventually de-laminate ... and with the cost of paint these days, not mention my time and trouble ...

It's nice to have a clean rust free metal project but there is little chance of that beam rusting through in your lifetime.

LOL ... quite true I'm sure

Build the machine and disassemble in the spring and have sandblasted.

I think that might be pretty sage advice, given the totality of the situation.

Looks good! Fred

Thanks.

You have a great impressive and quality project here.

Thank you.

Complete it with a set of filters for both supply and return.

Are you talking strainer or an actual filter on the suction line ?

I welded a 2" bushing into the tank for the filter to screw into.

UPS should deliver my 2" NPT weldable pipe flange today ... along with a few other goodies.

You can buy a return filter kit also.

I actually have one - from Surplus Center or Northern Tool ... can't recall which. It's an FPC spin-on.

Both will make your splitter last a long time!

If you're gonna do it, might as well do it right :thumbsup:

Since it is impossible to totally clean out the inside of the beam as well, I would also advise a suction strainer as well as the return line filter.

Yup - already have it. In fact, that piece of 3 1/2" pipe that is welded onto the square tube reservoir is there to accomodate the length of the strainer.

Another question, how are you building? Are you attaching the wedge to the beam and pusher to the cylinder? or wedge to the cylinder and pusher to the beam?

Wedge to beam, push block to cylinder.

I dont know if you saw my build thread ...

Yes - I had a look at it some point awhile back.

Nice work ... really like how you tied in the wedge.

... but may give you some more ideas.

Yup, thanks - I'm going to review it before I get in too deep ... :laughing:

I keep telling myself I will get around to building a new splitter, but life keeps getting into the way. One thing I want to incorporate is the ability to put a pipe bending head on it to have hydraulic pipe / rebar bender also.

That's a great idea :thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

Nice work ... really like how you tied in the wedge.


Yup, thanks - I'm going to review it before I get in too deep ... :laughing:

IIRC it was shieldArc who gave that suggestion of tying in the wedge. (and the anchor block or the cylinder.)

I think that was in another thread where I was tossing around different ideas on how to attach, because I have seen too many threads of wedges ripping loose from the beam (and in some cases even ripping up part of the beam).

It really didnt take long to torch it out either. Fitment dont have to be perfect either when dealing with thick stuff. Actually get better penetration if the fit-up isnt perfect.

I'll see if I can find that thread:

 

[LD1]

Yep, it was shieldarc

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/305677-attaching-wedge-beam-best-method.html?highlight=

Also, if you plan on a table like mine, might want to leave the beam to extend a good bit beyond the wedge so you have something to tie it to.

 

[rswyan]

IIRC it was shieldArc who gave that suggestion of tying in the wedge. (and the anchor block or the cylinder.)

I think that was in another thread where I was tossing around different ideas on how to attach, because I have seen too many threads of wedges ripping loose from the beam (and in some cases even ripping up part of the beam).

Good info to know ...

I'd like to do similar ... but I dunno if I have enough steel with what I have on hand to actually do it ...

I had a 10" x 11" piece of one inch plate - I ripped that along the 10" length to create a 6" x 10" for the wedge. The 5' x 10" drop was partially cut through with a torch at some point ... which was probably why they tossed it in the scrap bin. So that will have to be ground out and filled for it to be useable.

I also about a 5" x 5" piece of 3/4" or 1" for the base end of the cylinder ... which has already been drilled for the pin and had the bevels ground on it for welding. Was originally thinking about making a tall two-stage wedge (5" on top of 6") ... but your comments about reading about wedge getting torn off makes me hesitant to add more leverage for that to happen.

One thing I think I am gonna do is box the ends of the H-beam like Timberwolf does ...

I've got maybe 15" or 20" of 8 x 6 1/2 W28 from the last beam (used on Logsplitter 1.0) that I can cut up and use for that. Hafta poke around up in the shop and see what I've got in "inventory"

It really didnt take long to torch it out either.

Gonna see if I can get Uncle Buck - whose torches I have - down here today and let him go wild with the gas axe ... divide and conquer

Fitment dont have to be perfect either when dealing with thick stuff. Actually get better penetration if the fit-up isnt perfect.

Yeah ... it all gets filled in anyways.

I'm about due to head down to the LWS on Monday and get a full bottle of 75/25 ... might have to see about grabbing another bottle of the correct mix and give that spray transfer thingie a shot ... although I'm not sure if the wire I'm using (.035) will support it ...

I'll see if I can find that thread:

Thanks.

 

[rswyan]

Yep, it was shieldarc

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/305677-attaching-wedge-beam-best-method.html?highlight=

Hafta scope that one out.

Read/reviewed your build thread again this morning.

Nice work :thumbsup:

Also, if you plan on a table like mine, might want to leave the beam to extend a good bit beyond the wedge so you have something to tie it to.

At around 92" - 93", I've got plenty of beam so that should be no prob ...

Any particular reason you went with solid sheet metal on your table ... rather than just doing a table grate like Timberwolf does ?

 

[arrow]

Rsy i have a 17 yr. old Northern product 16 ton splitter. It also uses its axle mounts as a hydraulic tank. (seems a bit larger in volume than yours). It has a 6' long I-beam but I wish it were a bit longer. Not to split longer wood, but to man handle the thing a bit easier. I like to split my wood and stack it at the same time. This constitutes moving the splitter further down the line of course. I pick up one end and drag it up the line. If I had a bit more leverage with more weight hanging off the axle end, this would be a bit easier. Would also give a bit more leeway for a hitch ball on the axle end to be able to attach the splitter to the tractor at either end. Just some fft incase you didn't want to cut your beam as short as you originally figured. If this will end up as a 3 pt, everything I just said becomes moot. I also made a log table for mine whose base is made of wood. I slip it between the I-beam sections so it pulls on and off quite easily. It has a sheet metal top as well. The reason being was that sheet metal was easier to attach to the wooden base as it gave infinite screw in points to align itself to the wooden base. Have had it now for 25 cords w/o a break down.

 

[ajmaxham]

I also made a solid outfeed table. It makes moving the large piece of wood from the first split, of a large round, easy to slide back to the log lift.
My wedge is 9'' tall -- should be at least 12'' tall for large wood rounds -- I also made a 4 way slip on wedge.

 

[murphy1244]

I like the log lift on that!

 

[yomax4]

I copied the log lift and wish I had done it long ago. Next I'll copy the horizontal wedges with the slight downward angle. Nice work.