logsplitter question

   / logsplitter question #12  
If you’re doing such a small volume of wood practically any option will get the job done. I don’t care much about hours on the tractor but I like having my tractor not powering the splitter so I can use it to move wood.
 
   / logsplitter question #13  
I borrowed my neighbours splitter a few times and he suggested I buy a half share. I now own half share in a stand alone splitter. The tractor is used to lift the rounds up to the splitter deck.
 
   / logsplitter question #14  
I went with the Champion 7 ton and it works great for me and the price did not break the bank.
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   / logsplitter question #15  
I would recommend buying a self powered unit.
Should be able to get one for under $1k.
Run it out of fuel when putting it away for the season and change the oil every 2 or 3 years with no more use then you say you will have.

I know I waited far too long before getting mine and that was back before the prices came down.

With 1-2 trees per year, run it dry after every tree jib is finished. The ethanol in todays gas is hard on small passages when it sits for a few months. I suggest pulling the line to the carb when finished with the current needs and drain that fuel from the tank. Then run the motor till it dies using all fuel left in carb.

My $0.02 worth, I agree with not getting one for the tractor, due to wanting to load splits in either the bucket, a carryall or trailer on the tractor, also want tractor to move larger pieces of the tree to the splitter.
 
   / logsplitter question #16  
I bought a high enough quality tractor in the first place, so I don't have to worry about trying to save a few hours off it, running my 3 point splitter!

SR
 
   / logsplitter question #17  
I went with the Champion 7 ton and it works great for me and the price did not break the bank.
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All well and good for you but I have some oak on my property that laughs at my 20 ton splitter and tells me I should have a 30 ton.... Tonnage of splitter is relevant to type of wood being split (soft/hard or green/dry)....
 
   / logsplitter question #18  
I bought a 27 ton Troy Built log splitter from Lowes about ten years ago for around $1,200. The reason for buying this was because of the Honda engine. In my opinion, the only thing that matters when buying something with a small engine is that it's a Honda engine. Everything else sucks. After ten years, it still starts easy and runs great!!!

Hooking up stuff to the tractor is always a pain. I don't think you could run it enough to matter on the hours, it's just a pain to unhook what's on the tractor, then hook up a splitter, then have to take it off again. I like to leave the attachment on the tractor for as long as possible. First time you do it, I'm sure it wont be an issue, but in five years, it will be something that you dread having to deal with.

Renting works for one time use, and for a lot of things, it's the smart way to go.

For me, I burn a cord of wood a year to heat the house and another cord sitting on our porch, just relaxing in the evening. Two cords isn't a lot by most standards, but it still takes time to cut, split and stack. I also work full time and I have a long list of things I'm working on, along with chores that need to be done every day. It is very hard to dedicate a full day to splitting wood. It's also a lot of work to do in one day. I tend to split according to how much gasoline I have. One tank of gas is a quick day, two tanks of gas is about my limit. It takes longer to stack it then it does to split it, and two tanks of gas is a lot of wood to stack. Doing it this way takes a few days, or even weeks, depending on what else I'm doing. Renting isn't an option. I just leave the splitter out until I have my rack full of wood.

I've also learned that for me, it's easiest to cut up the tree where it falls, into 10 to 15 foot lengths, and carry those logs to where I keep my log splitter. I cut them into rounds there, and then carry the rounds to my splitter. My splitter is right in front of where I stack my wood, so it hits the ground once, then I pick it up and stack it. For me, this seems to be the least amount of work to get the job done.

I don't mess around with big rounds. If I can't pick up a round, I don't want to mess with it. Ideally, I focus on the 12 to 18 inch branches with a few that will go bigger. There is so much wood on a tree that I can be picky and get what I want, and not kill myself messing with something so heavy that I might hurt myself. Sadly, I have so many oak trees that fall over every year from our Spring thunderstorms, that most end up rotting on the ground before I can get them to the burn pile.
 
   / logsplitter question #19  
All well and good for you but I have some oak on my property that laughs at my 20 ton splitter and tells me I should have a 30 ton.... Tonnage of splitter is relevant to type of wood being split (soft/hard or green/dry)....
Yes, this. No diss meant to the guy with the toy splitter :) but I find my 12 ton will barely split my small (12" dia) elm logs. For any given size log, I find elm to be the toughest to split. I still split most everything else by hand!
 
   / logsplitter question #20  
Personally I like a stand alone splitter so I can use the tractor for jockying logs around. For a very small amount I would consider an electric splitter. But I never tried using my electric splitter for anything substantial, like 18" oak.

I don't recall if you use the wood for anything like home heat or for campfires. You could have a friend cut it up and haul it away for firewood. Wouldn't take any effort, depending on the mess they might make. I am always looking for an easy free tree here and there.
 
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