Logsplitter

Deerlope · Jan 14, 2005

That 4-way split is a good idea. I have a proto type pattern made up using pieces of wood that will slip over the wedge on the hyd cyl. Just have not taken the time to put it all together in steel. It is a lot cheaper cutting up a few scrapes of lumber than it is steel for the pattern. It looks like yours will not be moved easily by hand, but you do have a good design. Could we see a pic of the finished product?

rswyan · Jan 14, 2005

Fred,

After seeing a 4-way in operation I was pretty sure it was something I wanted to have, always have been a fan of working smarter, not just harder. I think doing one for a ram-mounted wedge is maybe a bit trickier from a design standpoint - since I'm a beginner at this sort of thing I just went with the wedge on the end of the beam. Making up a cardboard or wood template is definitely the smart way to go.

Attached is an pic of my fixed wedge in place ready to be welded (maybe today) and another wedge which I cut in half and beveled on the bandsaw - it will be used for the slip-on 4-way. I picked these up from Northern Tool, they are 12" inches high, 6" long and 3/4" thick. Probably could be made cheaper from just a piece of 3/4" stock but I didn't have a real good way to put a bevel on them at the time I picked them up.

( It looks like yours will not be moved easily by hand, but you do have a good design. )
Thanks - you're totally right - it will not be easily moved by hand (probably will weigh on the order 600+ lbs.) I plan on putting a 3PH mount on it and moving it around with the tractor. But I may also try to put three wheels on it as well if I can get the components at a reasonable cost and can come up with a good design to incorporate them. I like the idea of the 3PH because I can raise the unit up to a comfortable working height, but it would be nice to have it as a freestanding unit as well for those times I want to use the tractor for something else. It will be powered by a 6.5 hp Briggs motor that doubles as a power source for my TracVac.

( Could we see a pic of the finished product? )
Absolutely - I'll continue to post pics as I go along and will post some when I get it fully completed. I probably won't get around to painting it until the weather gets nice though since I don't have a good space to do that in.

rmath · Jan 14, 2005

rswyan, I have to ask, what brand is the cylinder you're using. I worked for Hydro-Line for 15 yrs and it looks like a HL tie rod cylinder. It may say Eaton now. They bought HL and closed the plant to Mfg elsewhere. Just curious on the Cyl. I have a couple 4 X 24's in my barn. "extras" from the plant closure. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Deerlope · Jan 14, 2005

I power mine with an 8HP Briggs. Its more engine than I need but I want to go to a 16GPM pump and with that I need 8 HP. Now I have 13.6 GPM pump. I just put on a new engine cause the other one was used and it finally gave up. I like the welded "T" cyl better cause the beam can be about 8" shorter. I move mine around a lot by hand or with the ATV.

rswyan · Jan 14, 2005

Ron,

Just went and looked at the tag on it and it says it's an Eaton Fieldmate, Rockford, Illnois ..... and sadly, I see in much finer and smaller print 'Cylinders Manfactured in China'

Since it was an Eaton I had assumed that it was probably made in the US somewhere .... I should have guessed I suppose.

rswyan · Jan 14, 2005

When I was looking at pumps I almost went with a 16 gpm instead of thirteen, since my motor was 6.5 hp (the recommended motor for the 13 was a 5 hp and for the 16 an 8 hp) Surplus Center also had a 15.2 gpm Viking pump that I considered as well. Called Surplus Center and the guy recommended that I stick with 13 - said the ratings for the pumps were based on electric motors and a gas motor of the same hp wasn't as efficient. I probably could have gone with the 15.2 at least and gotten away with it.

After I got the pump, I had to remove the vacuum impeller from the grass/leaf pickup off of the motor so I could install the pump. I worked on that on and off for about three weeks. Tried PB Blaster, heating with a propane torch, and ended up breaking two (6" and 8") 3 jaw Harbor Freight gear pullers trying to get it off. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Finally cut it off with a Sawzall.

While I was sitting there in front of the woodstove in the shed contemplating my folly, I looked over at the old Monkey Wards rototiller (with the prefectly good 8hp B&S engine) that we never use any more and thought 'I really should have went with the 16 gpm pump.' /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

beenthere · Jan 14, 2005

Sure glad to hear that I am not the only one with those kinds of 'happenings' or 'awakenings'. Don't know if more planning would be better, or in the long run, if nothing at all would get done because of 'always' planning. But sure have Been There /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

MMM · Jan 14, 2005

( 15 ton splitter should be just fine )

Do you think it will push a 4way? I think there's a 4way slip on at Northern Tool.

rswyan · Jan 15, 2005

( Do you think it will push a 4way? I think there's a 4way slip on at Northern Tool. )

I think for most of what I'll be splitting (maple and ash) it probably will - 15 tons of force is quite a bit. Might be some that don't go real fast if I get into some gnarly oak or something ..... time will tell.

I looked at the Northern 4-way when I ordered my wedges. They didn't say whether it would fit the wedges - only that it fit certain splitters they sold. Besides that I figured I would forego the $90 they wanted for it and just spend the $26 on the wedge and make my own.

rswyan · Jan 15, 2005

Beenthere,

Take it from me you're definitely not the only one /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It seems like it always happens on every project to some extent - sometimes small, sometimes large.

Planning is always good, but like ya say - if the runway is too long, the plane might not ever get off the ground. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif