ENG18LT
Platinum Member
A few of you have asked for my thoughts and observations regarding the Perma-Column poles I used. Well....
The added about 10% to the cost of materials. They are very heavy. There's no wood in the ground to rot.
I went with the factory assembled poles. This meant the 2x6's were glued into three ply posts for the PC6300 and four ply for the PC6400 models in a controled environment. Also this allowed the butt joints to be finger jointed and glue. The posts where then milled to be square and uniform dimensions. This created a very straight pole.
Attaching treated lumber to the lower concrete section was no big deal. I used a Milwaukee corded 1/2" hammer drill with the recommended 3/16" masonry bit. The split drive nails were fairly easy to drive with a 20oz. hammer.
Attaching girts to the wood portion was quick work for the nail gun. However, the wood portion is smaller then the concrete section on two opposite sides. So because I installed the poles all in same direction to accommodate the headers the two sidewalls required a couple extra steps. To avoid nailing through the 3/8" brackets you need to place a 2x6 nail on the post. Your first grit, at 24" o.c., is then nailed to the added 2x6.

All remaining girts and headers will need a piece of 3/4" plywood between them and the poles. This will maintain the proper plain, creating a vertically straight wall. Remember this is was because of the header layout. I probably could have oriented the poles so to minimize this step, just didn't think of it till after poles where in.

Overall I would say I am quite pleased with the Perma-Column product. Would I use them again, definitely (no I am not building another barn).
Hope this answers everyone's curiosity
The added about 10% to the cost of materials. They are very heavy. There's no wood in the ground to rot.
I went with the factory assembled poles. This meant the 2x6's were glued into three ply posts for the PC6300 and four ply for the PC6400 models in a controled environment. Also this allowed the butt joints to be finger jointed and glue. The posts where then milled to be square and uniform dimensions. This created a very straight pole.
Attaching treated lumber to the lower concrete section was no big deal. I used a Milwaukee corded 1/2" hammer drill with the recommended 3/16" masonry bit. The split drive nails were fairly easy to drive with a 20oz. hammer.
Attaching girts to the wood portion was quick work for the nail gun. However, the wood portion is smaller then the concrete section on two opposite sides. So because I installed the poles all in same direction to accommodate the headers the two sidewalls required a couple extra steps. To avoid nailing through the 3/8" brackets you need to place a 2x6 nail on the post. Your first grit, at 24" o.c., is then nailed to the added 2x6.

All remaining girts and headers will need a piece of 3/4" plywood between them and the poles. This will maintain the proper plain, creating a vertically straight wall. Remember this is was because of the header layout. I probably could have oriented the poles so to minimize this step, just didn't think of it till after poles where in.

Overall I would say I am quite pleased with the Perma-Column product. Would I use them again, definitely (no I am not building another barn).
Hope this answers everyone's curiosity