LONG Water Line Question

[txdon]

I replaced the 4 way connection with a deeper lip 3 way connection and drove in a 6' T-post to hold the line in place. I have check the water meter 4 times in the last 4 hours and each time the wheel is still

I hereby declare the leak fixed!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks.

 

[EddieWalker]

Don,

Congratulations!!! That can sure be frustraitinng and I'm glad to hear you found the problem.

I'd mark the place that you put that PVC union on the line. I'm not a big fan of them and it's now the week link in your line. Put a brick or something destictive in the ground so you can find it five or ten years from now.

I'd also replace those palstice PVC ball valves while they are uncovered.

Lastly, I just found out it's a good idea to put severl bags of readi mix at the end of the water main when it ends. The T-Post is probably plenty, but for a few bucks, you'd never have to worry about it ever again.

Thanks for posting the pics, it was fun following along with you on your search, plus all the great suggestions.

Eddie

 

[Egon]

Whew!! Another job done. Congradulations. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

As mentioned "Thrust Blocks" may be a good idea for the type of pipe you are using. Thrust blocks are a common part of pipeline construction. Lots of information on the web.

web page

A site with a little information. I would not get too excited by calculations. Common sense works wonders.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jinman]

Great job, Don. Sorry you had to so much time and grief getting the union. I won't try to be too much of a Monday morning quarterback, but it is a good idea to keep at least one repair union for each size pipe you have used in your main. Those late day runs to a store when you are filthy, tired, and mad at yourself are no fun. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Please don't ask me how I know. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[txdon]

<font color="blue"> "I'd also replace those plastic PVC ball valves while they are uncovered."
</font>

Eddie those are new ball valves. What would you suggest they be replace with? The metal valves corrode quickly here is this sand. When I went to turn on a metal valve in the field, that I had not used in a while, the handle crumbled in my hand. I always wonder which is best the brass or PVC valves for underground use. For valves exposed to sunlight I always go metal. I also really don't like the unions. Is there anything better for a splice? The only thing I could think of was to uncover about 20' on each side of the break and try to bow the line enough to slip on a coupling and a cutoff valve. WWED?

Egon, the thrust blocks are a good idea. There was a lot of pressure that broke the back of the box and allowed the first leak. (see attachment)

 

[tommu56]

If cost isn't an option I like the three piece ones it gives you a place to disassemble sections


web page
tom

 

[ronjhall]

Your url has two http's in it. Here is the corrected web page.

 

[EddieWalker]

Don,

The problem with the PVC valves it they don't handle usage very well and they will seize up on you over time. There are all sorts of metals and various materials in every water system. Over time they bild up in all types of valves. PVC is just the worse for this. They are not allowed in most applications and to my knowledge, only home owners use them due to their price.

A good gate valve, or ball valve like shown in the link is made from brass and stainless steel. They cost allot more than the cheapy ones, but 20 years from now it will still work and wont leak on you. Nobody can say that about PVC.

The problem with the union is the same thing, unless the two inch model are different. The ones I've used are tightend by twisting the ends on PVC threads. The ones the water department use are only available from the plumbing suppliers. They are one piece rubber sleeve with a stainless steel band around the entire lenghth. Then bolted together with massive bolts. These run $40 to over $100 or more depending on the size of the pipe.

In my thread about my 6 inch line breaking, they used two hundred dollar clamps to hold mine together.

With your large water main, things are different. Anything an inch or less and I'd just dig it out far enough to bend the pipe and put in a PVC Union and glue it together.

Since it's done, I'd leave it alone, but you really should mark that spot of the repair with a brick or something that will stand out when you go to look for it. A rock might end up looking like all the others 20 years from now.

Eddie

 

[txdon]

Thanks for the info Eddie! Don

 

[3RRL]

Don.
Before you bury those ball valves, consider getting 2 short lengths pf PVC about 4" or 6" diameter and a couple of plastic caps. Put the pipes over the valves and cap it but don't glue the caps on so they are flush with the ground and those will be you "markers" If you needed to, you can pop off the caps and shut off the valves with no digging.