Look what I got for $1700

[theghoul]

One other thing; don't drop the loader or the TPH unless the engine is running. When the engine runs, the pump runs. Consider your loader and steering cylinders for example, and note that they typically have one hose at either end. With the engine running, fluid flows in both hoses; out one, in the other. But with tne engine off, fluid only flows one way; back to the sump. That's what artificially raises the level of the sump, because the pump isn't running to replace the cylinder fluid that gravity pushed out.

My Chinese tractors had only one line on the hydraulic dipstick. I considered that the FULL mark. And I didn't screw the plug back into the hole to check levels either. With Asian threaded dipsticks, you unscrew, wipe, set in hole, check level, screw back in hole when done. I never added fluid unless/until the dipstick came out DRY.

//greg//

Wow, didnt know that.

I definitely over filled the hydraulic then. I screwed the dip back in to check the level.

There's no loader on the machine, and I've dropped the TPH with the finish mower on it and the engine off a few times. Thanks for that tip. I do that on my NH 1920 all the time

 

[greg_g]

Yeah, your $1700 tractor employs a dual sump system. That is, a gear oil sump for the transmission and rear differential and a separate hydraulic fluid sump. The 1920 is a common sump tractor, holding 31 gallons in a trans/hydraulic sump. By comparison, your Chinese hydraulic sump only holds 9 liters (~2.5 gal).

//greg//

 

[sjb]

Lowering the three point with the engine off is not a problem. The three point cylinder is single acting, so lowering it just drains oil in to the sump. It doesn't matter if the pump is pumping or not. A loader with double acting cylinders is very different.

also, since the three point cylinder is in the sump, lower than the oil full level, the position of the three point hitch doesn't have any effect on the oil level in the sump.


Stan

 

[greg_g]

Lowering the three point with the engine off is not a problem.

Understand. But first time owners often either have - or may soon add - front loaders and/or other double acting cylinders. So it's a good idea to simply state it as a universal recommendation; that is, only lower hydraulics with the engine running. That way, everybody's covered.

//greg//

 

[theghoul]

Ok, went through Rich Waug's and Greg's suggestions.

When the tractor was cold, I replaced the newly cleaned brillo pad filter in the breather. I also cleaned out the bottom plate and made it spic and span.

I checked the fluid levels and saw that I had too much oil. This is most likely due to when I refilled it after the breather dumped oil on the ground. It didnt look like any cross contamination, but its new oil so it didnt show so well on the dip stick.

I refilled the transfer case fluid which was a bit low, but still between the lines. It may have settled over night.

I think you guys were right about the hydro fluid. I may, in fact I'm sure, I filled it when the TPH was up, which could have given me a false low reading when I dropped it. I should have known better on that.

I also checked the fuel pump oil which I already changed. It leaked a bit from the top filler screw. I added about a few tablespoons more which made it dribble out of the level screw hole again and tightened it back up.

Started it, let it sit for 5 minutes (picture coldengine.jpg). I then shut it down and checked the fluid levels. All the levels stayed the same *whew (picture "5minutesafter.jpg"). I then took it for 30 minutes of mowing at 2000 rpm. I watched the gauges fervently. The oil pressure dropped from .5 to about to about .3 (picture "30minutesofmowing.jpg"). I stopped it, checked the fuel levels..They were about the same. :thumbsup:

I mowed another 1hr or so, making sure I used the TPH to lift the finish mower over curbs and to see if it would leak and still no fluid changes besides the frothing of the transfer case fluid.

Video of it running after mowing. Sounds ok, but I'm relatively new to these machines. What do you think?
video-2011-10-06-14-46-27 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Looks like the problem was that breather valve (I hope). :drink:

The fuel pump oil filler did leak some more (picture fuelpumpleak.jpg), then it stopped. Could I have overfilled it? Maybe it needs bleeding or something? Whatever the case, I'm sure elated that I don't have to change any major gaskets or seals (yet).

 

[Rich Waugh]

It seems to me that all is well at this point. Good job!

I want to clarify one thing, though. If you check the hydraulic fluid level by screwing the dipstick back in, that will result in UNDER filling the sump, rather than in overfilling it. When the dipstick is screwed in, it goes deeper into the sump - thus, a lower oil level will read full than it would if the stick was merely rested on the top of the hole, which holds the stick up higher. Does this make a big, important difference? I doubt it. The important thing is to do it the same way all the time and pay attention to what seems to work well for your machine.

Overfilling the hydraulic sump usually results in the oil dumping out of the breather cap/dipstick when the tractor is going up steep inclines. After a certain level is reached, this problem cures itself, obviously. However, that level may not be the optimum level for proper operation of the hydraulic system. If you go up a lot of steel hills (thus losing fluid), you may want to extend the hydraulic filler/breather by modifying it to take a piece of clear vinyl tubing that can be zip-tied to one of the ROPS arms so you don't lose fluid on hills. Your own experiences will dictate what is right in your particular circumstances.

Rich

 

[greg_g]

The oil pressure dropped from .5 to about to about .3

That's a bit high actually, but the electrical oil pressure gauges are not known for accuracy. Those numbers represent MegaPascals by the way:
0.1 MPa = 14 psi
0.2 MPa = 29 psi
0.3 MPa = 43 psi
0.4 MPa = 58 psi
0.5 MPa = 72 psi
But I'm wondering if someone fooled with the pressure adjust on the filter head. I say that because many owners - presumably with correctly adjusted filter heads - report cold oil pressures of up to 0.4 which then settle between 0.2 and 0.3 when warmed up and under load. Hot idle pressure as low as 0.05 can still be considered safe. If you're unsure whether or not to trust the gauge, I recommend borrowing a mechanical gauge for comparison.

The fuel pump oil filler did leak some more (picture fuelpumpleak.jpg), then it stopped.

Doesn't look significant. I'm going to speculate that - as the pump heated up - air in the sump expanded. There's mesh inside the vent cap similar to that in the engine oil breather. The expanding air took the path of least resistance, and pushed out what little oil that may have been in the vent cap

//greg//

 

[theghoul]

That's a bit high actually, but the electrical oil pressure gauges are not known for accuracy. Those numbers represent MegaPascals by the way:
0.1 MPa = 14 psi
0.2 MPa = 29 psi
0.3 MPa = 43 psi
0.4 MPa = 58 psi
0.5 MPa = 72 psi
But I'm wondering if someone fooled with the pressure adjust on the filter head. I say that because many owners - presumably with correctly adjusted filter heads - report cold oil pressures of up to 0.4 which then settle between 0.2 and 0.3 when warmed up and under load. Hot idle pressure as low as 0.05 can still be considered safe. If you're unsure whether or not to trust the gauge, I recommend borrowing a mechanical gauge for comparison.

Doesn't look significant. I'm going to speculate that - as the pump heated up - air in the sump expanded. There's mesh inside the vent cap similar to that in the engine oil breather. The expanding air took the path of least resistance, and pushed out what little oil that may have been in the vent cap

//greg//

Thats exactly what mine did. It went to .4 on a cold engine then settled down after it warmed up.

Thanks for advice. I'll keep an eye on the pump. It didn't lose much after the first fillup. I put a few teaspoons in it and it started to dribble from the level screw hole again.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Now your next issue is a stuck thermostat. Its not running at the proper temp. Diesels need to be at the right temp to perform properly.

Get a 82C or 180F or as close as you can t-stat. Take the old one out take it to your favorite auto parts store. Also get a new rad cap, its a 4 psi cap. I think you can find them at auto parts stores also. I got both my cap and t-stat at Auto Zone years ago.

Some report 7psi caps on the tractors but its wrong. Get a 4 psi cap.

Chris

 

[RonMar]

Now your next issue is a stuck thermostat. Its not running at the proper temp. Diesels need to be at the right temp to perform properly.

Get a 82C or 180F or as close as you can t-stat. Take the old one out take it to your favorite auto parts store. Also get a new rad cap, its a 4 psi cap. I think you can find them at auto parts stores also. I got both my cap and t-stat at Auto Zone years ago.

Some report 7psi caps on the tractors but its wrong. Get a 4 psi cap.

Chris

Mine came from china with a higher pressure radiator cap...