Looking at a hydraulic offset flail for the 3038e -It's Home!

[bdhsfz6]

It's home. They used the hydraulic top link while getting it mounted, then removed the hoses & hooked up the flail hydraulics. The top link has a pilot check valve so it holds position until live hydraulic action changes it.
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I figured out my intended DIY multiplier configuration. It will be based on a one solenoid diverter kit from Summit Hydraulics. The only additional thing needed will be a couple of 12" hoses w/ 1/2" male NPT ends. All other needed hardware (other than a bracket) is included. I can fabricate a bracket that will attach to the JD rear scv bracket. Should be, ballpark, $400 for everything.

Be careful using those notch hose holders in the top center of your second pic. They often don't allow enough slack when the cutter head is fully extended.

I've had two problems with mine so far. The first time, the hose just pulled out of the break away QR connector on the tractor. The second time, it tore the check valve off the cylinder. Cost me $80 to replace.

I now use a bungee to hold the hoses instead of the notches.

 

[1 Old Man]

It's too purty....go use it

 

[leonz]

Hello nikdfish,

The lady fingers are used for holding the hose ends only when the mower is off your mule.
This is to keep them from dropping in the dirt. The hose bundles go under the three
point hitch top pin and then the hose ends are attached to the lady fingers.

I want to welcome you as the newest resident member of the Flail Mower Nations from
Person County in the great State of North Carolina.

Happy mowing

 

[Bearsixty7]

It's home. They used the hydraulic top link while getting it mounted, then removed the hoses & hooked up the flail hydraulics. The top link has a pilot check valve so it holds position until live hydraulic action changes it.
View attachment 1510733

I figured out my intended DIY multiplier configuration. It will be based on a one solenoid diverter kit from Summit Hydraulics. The only additional thing needed will be a couple of 12" hoses w/ 1/2" male NPT ends. All other needed hardware (other than a bracket) is included. I can fabricate a bracket that will attach to the JD rear scv bracket. Should be, ballpark, $400 for everything.

Looks great! Can't wait to see some video of it in use!

 

[nikdfish]

The diverter kit is on the way. Drew up a bracket for the diverter that will sit on the JD rear scv bracket. Printed an initial version to test fit/stability/alignment on the scv bracket.

It clamps on the top of the existing bracket

I've already trimmed it down a bit, but will be waiting to get the diverter on hand before finalizing & reprinting.

 

[nikdfish]

For those curious about the amount of potential right side offset in the 90° position:

 

[bdhsfz6]

Another tip to consider: Keep the 3pt drop speed valve open wide for the fastest drop rate possible. It can get you out of trouble if you start to tip.

 

[workinonit]

Be careful using those notch hose holders in the top center of your second pic.

Those aren't hose holders. Those are to hold your ag fittings when the unit is not connected to the tractor.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Those aren't hose holders. Those are to hold your ag fittings when the unit is not connected to the tractor.

According to the manual, they serve a dual purpose. Yes, they hold the hose connectors when the flail is not in use, but they also keep the hoses out of the way of the articulating members and driveshaft.

If you run the hoses under the cross member, they will eventually get damaged. I use a bungee to hold them under the cross member. That way, the bungee will stretch if the hoses come up short.

I can't say it works this way on every articulating flail though.

 

[nikdfish]

After finishing up with the 5th SCV diverter install ((install details), I finally got the 3038e & flail out to the acreage today to started familiarizing myself with it's operation.

Turns out there are quite a few variables with the offset linkage in the mix. I got to play a bit with both flat mowing & 90 degree trimming.

The grass was only 10" or so, long enough to see variations if I made changes. Starting to pick up on the sequence I need to follow when going from transport to flat mowing & the effects from non optimal angles. Even the draft setting impacts the front/back angle. Left/right tilt needs the right setting since the is only a small amount of mechanical float. The cylinder has a piloted check valve.

Having the hydraulic top link available turned out to be a big deal. That angle needed to change when going from flat mowing to 90 degree trimming to get the right elevation for clearance.