Looking at a preowned Kubota L2800

[ovrszd]

I'm not aware of any Kubota 4wd built without the ability to shift between 2wd and 4wd??

I wouldn't worry about the dipsticks. Obviously it doesn't leak oil and need replacement or he would know where they are.

Out of everything you mentioned, the rusty rear wheels is my biggest concern. If I bought the tractor I would be removing the corrosive ballast and addressing the rust issues now before they become serious. Might require a tire store to dump them, remove the tires and check out the situation rather than simply dumping and refilling???

 

[Paul Thornton]

The jerky 3pt was one of the drawbacks of that model. The sight glass for the hydro fluid will be by the inside of your left ankle, the handle (pull up, push down) to put it in and out of 4 wheel drive behind your left heel

 

[jeff9366]

-This model is full time 4wd? Did not see a control lever to engage/disengage?
Owner said there was no control lever on this tractor.

I'm not aware of any Kubota 4wd built without the ability to shift between 2wd and 4wd??

Unless it is 2-WD and not 4-WD.

 

[ovrszd]

Unless it is 2-WD and not 4-WD.

Then it wouldn't be a "Kubota 4wd" tractor.

 

[The Deerslayer]

As stated, the jerky 3 pt is something those models are known for. If you can live with it, no big deal. There should be a lever to switch from 2WD to 4WD...check manual, serial number, and original dealer paperwork to confirm what he has there.

Depending what he is asking, 200 hours is nothing. Compare price of what you can get it for compared to new model with warranty, etc... and go from there.

I went through this process not to long ago and ultimately bought new. There were not too many used L's with low hours out there. Those that were got picked up quick, so I would not wait long if the price is right and condition matches.

 

[ovrszd]

I went through this process not to long ago and ultimately bought new. There were not too many used L's with low hours out there. Those that were got picked up quick, so I would not wait long if the price is right and condition matches.

I agree. If this is a good deal it will be gone very quickly. You gotta move fast to take advantage of good ones.

 

[jeff9366]

Going to see a 2010 Kubota L2800 with 200 hours.

Is 28 hp any disadvantage with this size tractor?

Any idea as to what is a good price to pay?

The optimum size Rotary Cutter for this 28-horsepower Kubota will be 48". Allowing for a 6" overlap, that equates to cutting a swathe 42" wide.
You can power a 48"/54"/60" PTO powered FORWARD ROTATION roto-tiller. Tractor will not pull a Disc Harrow with enough weight to be effective but as it is quite sufficient for a roto-tiller, who cares?
In theory, in soft ground, you could pull a 12" two bottom moldboard plow. If it were my tractor, I would pull only a one bottom 12" or 14" moldboard plow.

When I sold my garage stored Kubota B3300SU tractor/loader at 430 hours, a tractor pretty comparable to L2800, I set the price $4,000 less than my dealer invoice, in other words I ate depreciation @ $9.30 per hour. The tractor sold to the first person who looked at it. No sales tax on tractors in Florida.

I prepared a twelve page booklet on the B3300SU which included numerous photos and posts from T-B-N and the "new" dealer invoice. The Kubota dealer showed the booklet around and sent the buyer to me.

So maybe $2000 less than new price, also less sales tax, which should be on the original buyer. Tractordata.com shows a nebulous 2011 MSRP price of $12,187. Used tractor prices are usually most flexible when snow is on the ground, least flexible in Spring.

BUT FIRST YOU NEED TO BETTER DETERMINE EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE BEING OFFERED. If any any doubt, deduct your uncertainty from the price you offer.

I would deduct $750 for those questionable wheels as a contingency, but I would follow guidance from TCREELEY: "If holding air in the tires you can leave the rears for now."

On the basis of what is known now, I would make a cash offer @ $9,000. Be open to make a final offer of $9,500.

I concur with DEERSLAYER: "The jerky 3 pt is something those models are known for. If you can live with it, no big deal."

 

[k0ua]

Regarding the jerky hydraulics, are you referring to the 3ph. FEL, or the HST operation?

The 3pt. Has a jerky valve. They all have it to one degree or another. Kubota doesn't consider it a problem. They actually mention it in a way in their workshop manual for entire L series that the Grand L's have a "deluxe valve" that is smoother and a standard valve like what is in the L2800. It doesn't matter to a lot of people, to some it does. It is what it is. You can get the 3pt exactly where you want it by going past the exact point you want it to be with a series of "jerks" then feather it down to the exact spot you want it to stop.

Jerky going up, smooth as silk going down. There are several threads here if you want to dig them up.

 

[teg]

Just got back from seeing this L2800. Is it sold yet?

Here's my questions/concerns:
-This model does not come with a primary and secondary air filters? Only one was installed.

You can buy the inner filter and use it if you have a need (lots of dust). Only the primary one is needed for 90+%, I've replaced it lots of times.

-This model is full time 4wd? Did not see a control lever to engage/disengage?
Owner said there was no control lever on this tractor.

knob left side by your heal, pull up for 4x4

-Looked for the hydr. fluid dip stick/sight gauge and could not locate either one?
What concerned me was that the owner of 7 years, had no idea where the dipstick was. He never looked for it, and obviously never checked the fluid level.

Sight glass on the left side of the transmission, right at the floor level. Pretty hard to see and the clear fluid is even harder to see. I've been down 2.5 gallons hydraulic fluid and it works fine... the large (7 +/- gallons) is for cooling. I would replace the old with new Super UDT2

-Checked the 3ph operation with a ballast box full of stones attached.
Operation was VERY JERKY DURING THE RISE. Smooth decent.

Gravity down (speed control knob directly under you while in the seat) Also, might be very hard to turn at first. Jerky 3ph hitch you might not think its a problem, if you didn't hear about it (basically if you don't know how it should work on every other tractor).

-The one thing I noticed is that the control lever had to be moved all the way
to POSITION #5 before it would begin to move the 3ph.
Does this indicate that the 3ph control unit needs to be replaced?

This is very very common to standard/economy series, I can't say much about the tires... since I have the same stuff in my tires. I'll worry about it when/IF it fails.

Sight glass have been bad about cracking so keep an eye on it. not sure when kubota changed over to the non-cracking plastic.

 

[k0ua]

-Checked the 3ph operation with a ballast box full of stones attached.
Operation was VERY JERKY DURING THE RISE. Smooth decent.

-The one thing I noticed is that the control lever had to be moved all the way
to POSITION #5 before it would begin to move the 3ph.
Does this indicate that the 3ph control unit needs to be replaced?

Others have pretty well answered all your questions, but yes the control lever action is normal for this series. There is no movement on the lower numbers of the arc of the control lever. This is normal. The jerky rise is normal for this unit. The rusty wheels are NOT normal. Danger Will Robinson. Action immediately needed.


Be sure when checking the sight glass (plastic actually, and they fail often and suggest you purchase a spare.) is to have the tractor on very level ground in both the X and Y axis (in other words level both ways) with all implements and FEL down. The level should be near the top with perhaps just a small bubble showing at the top. It is a Pixx Poor system to check fluid level, but it is what it is. All part of that economy thing. The good news is once you have the correct level, and you have no leaks, really how often do you need to check?

Also you need to purchase a spare hydraulic suction hose. Failure is imminent on these hoses. They are about $25 and very easy to replace. It is near your right foot when operating. The hoses crack at the bend and suck in air.