Tires Looking for tips on removing loaded R1 rear on L4760

[fishpick]

Any practical tips for removing a loaded rear wheel off a L4760 with R1 tires?

Im concerned the tread lugs will make the rolling of it out of the way be very wobbly and prone to falling.

 

[oldnslo]

Will this be on flat concrete or dirt. What type of equipment do you have to assist with moving or will this all be done by hand?

I doubt the lugs will cause much wobble but if it starts to tip very much you will not be able to hold it by hand.

Many years ago 2 of us removed loaded 15.5 - 38 tires from our tractor on gravel drive. Rolling wasn’t as much of a concern as balance.

 

[5030]

So long as the tire and rim stay vertical there won't be an issue. However, it it starts to lean over, get the heck out of the way FAST because if it falls on your foot or shin / leg, it can very well break it or cause you much unneeded pain I never fool with mine and they aren't loaded because I don't believe in loading a tire. I prefer cast centers myself and cast centers make the rim and wheel removal a dangerous job. I leave that to my farm tire guy with his truck mounted cherry picker. Some things are best left to those who know what they are doing and have the correct tools.

 

[CobyRupert]

One possibility: get the kit to empty and store the juice while you’re moving the tire, then put it back in when you’re done.
BTW, I have no experience doing this…

 

[JWR]

Best is to do it with two people. Usually even with a loaded tire that size two guys can keep the thing upright and avoid tip over. Slopes matter too as they are hard to control on any sort of hill side area. Recently I had a case involving a badly bent wheel needing removal. Jacks will work of course but being a front wheel I used the FEL to lift the front end and placed jackstands under the axle with the tire barely clearing the floor. Then took the lugs loose with an air wrench and 2 of us rolled it onto a trailer (using a slight downhill to the trailer.) This worked great for transport to a tire shop for tire and wheel surgery. This particular tire/wheel were 11.2x24, not loaded, and still too heavy for two guys to lift other than momentarily. I did notice the R1 tread made for a wobbly transit to the trailer. I had plans to use a much smaller tractor with a FEL and chain to hoist the tire/wheel back into place (which I certainly would have had it been a larger rear one) but we were able to get it back on by hand with 2 of us and a pry bar to lift it off the ground just enough to engage the studs.

Your 14.9x24 R1 tires loaded will be way too heavy to handle manually. You can probably use the same methods we did but need another machine (like something with a FEL) to help suspend it , especially for remounting. Actually that would be a good chore for a pig pole and small chain or good rope on a second tractor of almost any size. I recommend getting the tractor where there is lots of room around it to operate and then using a pig pole.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Just keep it balanced and have a place to put it. I take off skidder wheels alone and they are pretty big. Tractor wheels no problem.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Any practical tips for removing a loaded rear wheel off a L4760 with R1 tires?

Im concerned the tread lugs will make the rolling of it out of the way be very wobbly and prone to falling.

Don't even think of trying to handle it by hand.

The only way I would do that is with a cherry picker that is rated for the total weigh of the tire or a FEL. I'd use a lifting strap rated for the weight and pick it up that way. A good set of forks might be another way to do it.

 

[Citydude]

I took off a loaded rear by having the tractor close to my garage wall. Once off the tractor it was close to something to lean it on. In reality though, It's really a two person job.

 

[amhicks21]

I swap loaded rear turf tires on and off the L6060 seasonally by myself fairly easily. as long as you just jack the tractor up enough to barely take weight off the lugs its not hard to walk the tire on and off without doing any damage or being at risk of it tiping. You can let some air out to allow the tread to flatten out if you're worried about it falling over but ive never had problems keeping them upright and im not a particularly big person.

 

[JWR]

I swap loaded rear turf tires on and off the L6060 seasonally by myself fairly easily. as long as you just jack the tractor up enough to barely take weight off the lugs its not hard to walk the tire on and off without doing any damage or being at risk of it tiping. You can let some air out to allow the tread to flatten out if you're worried about it falling over but ive never had problems keeping them upright and im not a particularly big person.

Wow. Loaded turf tires are fat and a lot heavier than his R1s. They are however probably much less likely to tilt left/right being so fat and having a wide area in contact with the ground. Interesting report of your experience.

 

[amhicks21]

Wow. Loaded turf tires are fat and a lot heavier than his R1s. They are however probably much less likely to tilt left/right being so fat and having a wide area in contact with the ground. Interesting report of your experience.

I actually don't have experience moving around loaded r1's but ive moved r3 and r4's quite a bit. Just judging from pictures of r1's I'm really not sure they'd be more tippy. It seems like the lugs are pretty flat across but I have to admit I don't know first hand. I'll say for sure that highly inflated tires are way harder to keep upright though. those 18" wide turf tires will stand up on their own if they only have like 10 psi in them.

 

[CobyRupert]

Would an engine puller be of assistance?

 

[oldtimer 66]

I not sure if I have a more detailed pictures. Here are 2 from when I needed to replace my fuel gauge on my JD 4320. I modified an engine lifter to do my tire changes. I swap out my ind lug tires 17.5-24 to turf tires every spring and fall. The ind lug tires are are filled with rim guard/ 550 lbs. approx. with 2 wheel weights approx. 210 lbs. plus the rim and tire weight. With out the wheel weights they were vertically stable. Now with the wheel weights they want to lean at a 15/20 deg angle towards the weight side. It makes them harder to control and move around. I modified the support legs of the engine lifter to give it a wider opening around the wheels and parallel to each other. I use a custom length of chain, screw shackles and a special 2.0 X 2.0 pc of box tubing with lugs as a lifting adapter. It works for me but like I said I do this change over 2 times a year.

 

[oldtimer 66]

I forgot to mention one thing. This works for my tractor and the industrial lug tires. If I had R1 tires this would not work because I would not have sufficient clearance between the tire and fender for the lifting adapter/ 13.6-28's. I am not sure of your tire to fender clearance. Some tractors have the tire and fender so close you cannot even use chains. At the local fair a short time ago the was a new Massey compact tractor with industrial lug tires and you could not even get your little pinky between the tire and fender. Not good.

 

[JWR]

I not sure if I have a more detailed pictures. Here are 2 from when I needed to replace my fuel gauge on my JD 4320. I modified an engine lifter to do my tire changes. I swap out my ind lug tires 17.5-24 to turf tires every spring and fall. The ind lug tires are are filled with rim guard/ 550 lbs. approx. with 2 wheel weights approx. 210 lbs. plus the rim and tire weight. With out the wheel weights they were vertically stable. Now with the wheel weights they want to lean at a 15/20 deg angle towards the weight side. It makes them harder to control and move around. I modified the support legs of the engine lifter to give it a wider opening around the wheels and parallel to each other. I use a custom length of chain, screw shackles and a special 2.0 X 2.0 pc of box tubing with lugs as a lifting adapter. It works for me but like I said I do this change over 2 times a year.

That's a great solution. It does require a nice smooth concrete floor (which I do not have at my farm) but otherwise it is just about ideal.

 

[bsekf]

Why are you removing the tire? If there is something wrong with it bite the bullet and get the farm tire repair guy. They have the equipment and knowledge. Service call to fix a tractor tire around here is about $200.

 

[beckmurph]

 

[JWR]

The dolly above is probably a good idea (for flat smooth concrete locations) but there is no provision to avoid tip over. This tire thing is still a 2 person job to me. By the way I have a friend who restores antique automobiles and he has a current project car on 4 of these dollies and can orient the car any direction he wants within his shop.

 

[fishpick]

I thought about dolly thing like above but I'm not sure that's gonna be lug friendly. I think I'd rather work i no the ground and know what the ground is gonna do vs have a lug slip off the edge of that and then the wheel wants to be off angle.

I have pulled an old 8N wheel before - this one is just gonna be heavier is all and the tread is quite a bit more aggressive so that's the wondering about the lugs.

I'm not going to use someone to pull it because I need it off to access the panel behind the wheel to install rear remotes.

I'm not sure I can get another tractor in and to the wheel to access it with the loader in the barn due to space... I know I want to keep the FEL on the L4760 when doing this to manage the weight offset the wheel coming off introduces.

It should be fun!

 

[oosik]

I removed the loaded R-1 rear tires on my first tractor - Ford 1700. They were Ag rims and I wanted to widen the stance. One of the tires DID flop down and almost caught me under it.

There is NO WAY I would even consider removing the RimGuard loaded rear tires on my M6040. With 775 pounds of RimGuard in each tire - one tire would be well over 1000 pounds.

It would be a call for service from our friendly tire store in our small town.