Low cost finish floor

[DFB]

Give me some suggestions...

My boss wants the upstairs in his new barn finished so he needs a finished floor over the construction subfloor which is real mess from paint and wallboard compound.

Its got to be wood of some form no adhesive tiles or lino

Consulting with my independent lumber yard they suggested shiplap pine boards its all the same price no matter what width I choose. I'm in agreement with that and I'm looking at about $1.75 sq.ft. there. I even have cut nails to make to look rustic (I had that in my other house)

His all talk no action pal wants him to buy packaged laminate floating flooring from the Orange Big Box. My independent guy didn't think that a great idea being the size of the room is approx. 25x 60 and all wide open thought it might show to much discrepancy in the room. Dunno never used it. My contractor buddy absolutely hates it I cant even run that suggestion in front of him. .

Now some of that stuff runs as low as .80 a sq.ft. or about half the cost of the 3/4" pine. I have no idea of the quality or durability of something cheap like that in semi-commercial setting. Obviously I can match or even exceed the pine in price with other choice selections though.

My boss he never even pounded a nail wants it done as fast as possible keeps saying to me he want some large panels sheet goods that look like flooring...I don't think I even know about anything like that and if they even exist


Anyhow its big room

and plywood isn't good enough!

 

[CurlyDave]

How much traffic is there? Pine is very soft and will not hold up under even moderate foot traffic.

Why do you even want to do this job? If he wants the cheapest, it will not be durable and he will remember that you did it, but not the part about what you advised.

A local carpet installer can put in the cheapest wood-looking laminate flooring very quickly and will be a convenient scapegoat if it fails.

 

[downsizingnow48]

During my contractor days that is the kind of job I would not take. Picky ignorant client just going to be trouble.

That said in some parts of the country you can get yellow pine floor boards much harder than regular pine. Looks nice too.

 

[KennyG]

I've become a real fan of click lock floating floors. They range from to cheap laminates to exotic engineered hardwoods. The cheap laminates are serviceable for light duty, look plastic but get the job done. Quality laminates are hard to tell from real hardwood. Engineered hardwoods are extremely durable and easy to install. I put in some engineered bamboo a number of years ago and I'm amazed at how good it looks and holds up. It was not all that expensive - much much cheaper than hardwood when you factor in the easy installation and no finishing required.

 

[paulharvey]

Sounds like you need "utility grade" pine or hardwood flooring.

 

[STx]

Laminate is cheap, quick and easy to replace. Durability will depend on the traffic an finish of the laminate, the more expensive stuff will be more durable. Take some moderate care in putting protectors under chairs (rugs or the plastic stuff used on carpets) and runner rugs in high traffic areas and it will hold up just fine.

Tile would be the most durable. It does need to be set with mastic but you can (and should) put a layer of 1/4" backer board over your plywood first, which is just nailed down. That would make removal of the tile pretty easy down the road, if needed.

 

[BitChin1]

Might not be what he is looking for but I saw a nice country house with a "finished" floor recently that looked rather good - they added a second layer of OSB over their subfloor and then put urethane floor finish over it - had a slight brown tent to the random pattern of the OSB.

My first thought was this was not going to be good but was actually surprised how nice it looked.
This was several months ago so I have no idea how well it will wear over time. That said it is low cost and quick to install!

 

[jaotguy]

don't walk away ... ......run from the job ...

you've already given suggestions and he's going in a different direction.

let HIM get someone fast and cheap ... and stay out of it .

he can only blame himself later if it fails to hold up or look nice ....

 

[s219]

There are some great laminates, but the cheap ones look and perform horrible, so I wouldn't waste my time.

Another cheap option is bamboo flooring -- it's durable and cheap, and looks good. Comes in pre-finished T&G planks just like other lumber flooring, and I have seen both 3/8" and 3/4" thickness. I know many people that have used it and it's a great option. Nails down with a standard floor stapler that drives a staple or cleat through the top of the tongue on an angle.

I agree with others, though, this seems like a serious boondoggle that I'd avoid like the plague.

 

[luvmexfood]

My one experience with a floating laminate floor is enough for me to say never ever again. It floats this way and then over that way. If you consider it look at the specifications for the sub-floor. Very low tolerances for anything that is the least bit out of level. At least what I used. A mid-grade from Lowe's.

Also watch the lower priced 3/4" prefinished flooring. Especially if it says made in China. I bought some from Lowe's. Pretty fair hand at woodworking etc. Started out with long pieces along an outside wall. Mixed pieces from different boxes per instructions. Kept getting off leaving a 1/8" gap at times. Would fix with a joiner and get back true. Off again a few runs later. Come to find out their was a 1/16" difference in width between different boxes.

Good luck it whatever you use.

 

[DFB]

Thanks for all the replies guys. Now I am more confused than ever

I'll admit they are rough on stuff down at the orchard...they can even wreck concrete!

I will check if the shiplap boards are a SYP. They usually use that for the low cost stair treads when the oak is too expensive.

I like the bamboo idea. I have heard good things about it, the orange box online shows me some short (less than 4 ft pieces) 5 inch wide for $1.99 sq ft. 5/8 thick material. Didnt see anything longer.

Glue down or elastilon?

Home Decorators Collection Horizontal Toast 5/8 in. Thick x 5 in. Wide x 38-5/8 in. Length Solid Bamboo Flooring (24.12 sq. ft. / case)-HL615S - The Home Depot


Hey as much I would farm it out it is what keeps me on the payroll unless there is something more important to do.

It may not even happen this summer.


Now another question would it be best run parallel to the long way being it such a large room and you would be looking right thru it?


There is big flooring center on my into work I will kick around there today while its raining...its where I got all the commercial grade floor tiles and adhesives when I did both the apple packing house and the floor in the new donut shop.

 

[fishheadbob]

You're in Vermont and Maine. You ever considered looking at a small local mill to see what they can do ? Around here we have gobs of Amish as well as others with small mills who will do custom work at a fraction of what you would ordinarily pay.

 

[DFB]

You're in Vermont and Maine. You ever considered looking at a small local mill to see what they can do ? Around here we have gobs of Amish as well as others with small mills who will do custom work at a fraction of what you would ordinarily pay.

Yea we do have a lot of mills one in particular sources bulk hardwood flooring from other sources and distributes it locally. I just got of the phone with my contractor bud and that was his suggestion also after he ranted for 10 minutes about prefinished laminate flooring

Off to the job and to pick him up now...

 

[EarPlug]

If going with any of the "floating floors" don't forget the cost of the underlayment. It is a MUST DO and will cost $0.25 to $0.50 per square foot.

At $1.25 sq/ft for a good laminate and $0.50 sq/ft for the underlayment you are at $1.75 sq/ft - same as you pine flooring????????

 

[DFB]

Is there a "good" laminate @ $1.25 sq. ft?

My trip the flooring center was both good and bad, minimum cost and on sale per sq ft was $2.49 but with attached underlayment for a cost saving.

One thing I did learn was about every 20 feet you have add in a t-strip transition piece for a break so it was recommended running perpendicular to the longer direction for a better visual

Boy did they have some nice stuff but $3.50- $4.50 a sq ft. was average. They even had an applewood. If it was my orchard and my building that be a must have.

Also interesting was they also clearly pointed out some product issues like was mentioned in post 10 along with a certain brand name to boot to reinforce that they stood behind the products they sold.

Anyhow still at square one it seems

And the pine quote is just white pine which would have to be at a minimum stained

 

[BitChin1]

How is this area to be used? When you said "finished" does this included wallbord, painted etc? what else.

Google my suggestion for using OSB for the finished floor - you will find many examples of this - looks good. (I tried linking to them but site does not seem to want me to do this) Depending on what is on the loft floor currently you may be able to start with that and just sand it down - smooth, loose areas, remove ink stamping and any mess that has accumulated then varnish it with good floor finish.
Even if you add new OSB the cost will be ~ $0.25 - $0.75 sqft depending on which grade/thickness you choose.

After you are finished and decide you don't like it you will have a nice clean subfloor to install laminate, pine etc. If you do like it then you are finished much more quickly and save $$$$

Found this comment in finehome building forum - builder is discussing the use of OSB in his own home:



Here are his comments from the earlier thread:

"It works great despite the other comments. When I built the house in 96/97 I wasn't planning to finish the second floor right away. But after plastering I figured it wasn't much more to hang doors and some trim. But I didn't have the budget to install hardwood flooring so I decided to just sand and poly the 3/4" OSB subfloor. It came out so good (except for the rusty heads of the gun nails - the house was open to the weather for a very wet winter).

After the article came out in 99 I got calls from all over the country - people wanting to know how I did it and how it performs.

All I did was hit it with a floor edger. I was afraid to use a drum sander. Then I applied several coats of waterborne poly. First two dissapear. I sanded after 3rd coat and then top coated with a forth and fifth. Sounds like a lot but you usually need 4 or 5 coats of waterborne anyway. There are only a couple spots that flaked - under the wheels of my old oak desk chair. And even that spot isn't bad.

If I were doing it again I would have used Advantec OSB rather than regular. Advantec is much denser, doesn't flake, doesn't swell when wet and they do such a good job sanding - you'll just barely have to touch it. If your building the units from scratch - then just use Advantec for the subfloor and take just a little better care framing on it. You could screw it down for a neater look but for artist's apartments - just shoot it down and putty the holes. The putty will dissappear in the randomness of the OSB strands.

I just rolled out #30 tarpaper over the floor before the blueboard and plaster went on to protect it (but I do that even if I'm not planning to finish the OSB and using regular hardwood - keeps the mess under control)

I'd recommend using a U-Sand 4 head random orbital floor sander to dress up the surface before finishing. The sander is easier to use than a drum sander and won't 'cut' the floor. Lots of rental companies have them and you don't need to practice as you do with drum sanders.

Just plan on putting on several coats of poly and then make sure you recoat every 5 years or so before the surface wears through. That will save the effort (and wood) on a resand / recoat which will be necessary if you wait too long.



My floor has 6 years of use on it and still going strong. It looks great, people think it's novel, architects love it, it naturally hides dirt, and it's inexpensive."

 

[DFB]

BitChin1 I'm not dismissing that idea and I follow what you say but I really don't know if I can sell me boss on that. I cant even sell him on a nice grade of sanded plywood underlayment for the time being.

Geez I have plywood floors been sealed with Thompsons during the framing stage and my contractor buddy says they look like they've been polished. I love my plywood floors! . I'm still in a partial construction stage with the home I built. It's been fine for me right now, plus there is no woman here to complain about it. And with my job, farming, dirty feet and big a lack time to play house it works great for me.

Personally I want to use a laminate floating floor thru my entire house eventually...and I need to use a type that is approved for radiant under floor heat (no rubber backer from what I understand it only blocks the heat transfer and stable enough that it wont warp.)

Hey I did go over the rotted floor of our 14 foot box truck with 3/4 chipboard T&G underlayment and he really liked that so maybe there is still hope. I'll say...well you like the way the truck looks don't ya?

 

[BitChin1]

Good luck :laughing:

 

[newbury]

<snip>
I like the bamboo idea. I have heard good things about it, the orange box online shows me some short (less than 4 ft pieces) 5 inch wide for $1.99 sq ft. 5/8 thick material. Didnt see anything longer.

Glue down or elastilon?

Home Decorators Collection Horizontal Toast 5/8 in. Thick x 5 in. Wide x 38-5/8 in. Length Solid Bamboo Flooring (24.12 sq. ft. / case)-HL615S - The Home Depot<snip>

Did you read any of the comments on HD's website?

It seems anyone tracking in something from downstairs would easily scratch and dent bamboo. If you can do it in pine it will age gracefully.

There was a thread here last year about flooring, but apparently that brand is not offered anymore http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/318976-basement-upgrades-allure-vinyl-flooring.html.

 

[DFB]

Did you read any of the comments on HD's website?

It seems anyone tracking in something from downstairs would easily scratch and dent bamboo. If you can do it in pine it will age gracefully.

There was a thread here last year about flooring, but apparently that brand is not offered anymore http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/318976-basement-upgrades-allure-vinyl-flooring.html.

Nope have had no time to look at reviews but the gluing installation threw me off right away

I had suggested a vinyl coated floating flooring for ease of maintenance but my boss refused it immediately...has got to be wood of some sort. He is insisting on that.

There is an commercial store I frequent, an ice cream shop that set up in an old building and renovated. The floor has a commercial grade vinyl coated board. And the abuse it takes is awesome.

The wide plank pine floors in my reconstructed 1800's post and beam house were good with me. Had a dark walnut type stain. They did suffer some scratches over a decade of use (I had a dog too) and heavy furniture created some dents but for the most part it was all fine.