LPGS For Kubota B2910

[tractorworks]

I use a 6' grade master behind a B2910 with good luck. I have a 5' boxblade also and sometimes it's handier to use but really appreciate the 6' width on LPGS. Mine is more like 4 feet long on the ground. I can pull about the same amount of dirt with either. Maybe a little more with LPGS.

 

[rswyan]

tractorworks,

That's good to know :thumbsup:

I'd prefer to go wide and long ... but I realize I can't have it all ... :laughing:

 

[rswyan]

Executive decision:

6' wide x 4' overall, with 3' in length on the ground.

That will allow me to use the two 3' drops from the side plates for the tailgate and its stop.

 

[ovrszd]

Keep in mind the length is what gives the tool the ability to plane.

 

[Rustyiron]

I would make the c/e adjustable, even if you had to do it with a series of holes and r&r some bolts. Not being able to do any "cutting" would be just silly unless you never expect to do anything but dragging around whatever loose material was on the surface. I guess I should have asked what you want to do with it.
I think your 10" chan. sounds good and as you said, the longer the better but you have to consider the weight waaaay out behing you! Charge up your camera:thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

Also, since the LPGS is wider than the tractor the sides can extend forward to keep the weight closer to the tractor to help in lifting it.

 

[bcp]

Not all grader blades have the holes centered. I have a pair like the smaller one in this photo. Double-edged but off-center holes.



Bruce

 

[ovrszd]

All cutting edges built to use on a commercial road grader are non reversible. Holes are offset.

That's why I suggest securing the edges before building so you use the right material that can be drilled in the right place.

 

[rswyan]

Keep in mind the length is what gives the tool the ability to plane.

Yeah ... rethinking this:

Executive decision:

6' wide x 4' overall, with 3' in length on the ground. ...

I'll keep the 4' length on the ground, and rather than cutting the side plates to achieve the upward angles at front and rear, I'll use some bar stock to form the runners and then plate them in ... less useless waste that way.

 

[rswyan]

I would make the c/e adjustable, even if you had to do it with a series of holes and r&r some bolts. Not being able to do any "cutting" would be just silly unless you never expect to do anything but dragging around whatever loose material was on the surface. I guess I should have asked what you want to do with it.

As long as there is some portion of the ground above (and within) the plane formed by the four corner points of the skids/runners, it will always be capable of "cutting" ... even if the blades are mounted flush.

Of course, that ultimately might not be as aggressive as I'd want it ... so it just might be a good idea to make the blades adjustable ...

Just have to figure out how I want to do it.

I think your 10" chan. sounds good and as you said, the longer the better but you have to consider the weight waaaay out behing you!

Yup ...

Took out the digital calipers while I was up there and checked it ... looks like it's only C10 x 15.3 so that's not quite as bad ... but using 6' of channel and cutting edge as the tailgate will add some weight to the rear ... along with the stop for the tailgate itself.

Charge up your camera:thumbsup:

Actually had it on the charger in the shop while I was up there ... if I had remembered to bring the cord back down with me I'd be posting pictures right now.

Doh ! ... just remembered I can email it to myself from the phone and then collect it on the desktop ... so here ya go ... :