M-Series Engines
- Thread starter Big_Cajun
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5030
Rest in Peace
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- Feb 21, 2003
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- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
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- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
OBoneKubota:
Has a nice Darth Vader ring to it.
Maybe. The differences are negligible so long as you have the proper tools to pull the liners. Granted, the parent bore/dry liners are harder to remove, but the wet liners can be difficult to remove also. In either design, after tear down, do the liners just "come" out. In both cases, the liners have to be pulled either through the use of a hydraulic puller/weld bead shrinkage (in the case of dry liners) or by use of an internal expansion plug and puller (we use the overhead crane) on a wet linered engine simply because the crevice seals are an interference fit.
In as much as installation, neither type is harder than the other. The wet liner still needs to be seated, while taking care that the crevice seals and "o" rings remain seated and the liner has to be either flush or seated in the deck recess. The dry liner can be literally "dropped" into the parent bore so long as the liner is properly shrunk by cooling in either dry ice (solid carbon dioxide) or in the deep freeze over night. Final fitment usually consists of rapping the top of the liner with either a brass hammer or wood block and drilling hammer to obtain a flush fit with the deck of the block.
Has a nice Darth Vader ring to it.
Maybe. The differences are negligible so long as you have the proper tools to pull the liners. Granted, the parent bore/dry liners are harder to remove, but the wet liners can be difficult to remove also. In either design, after tear down, do the liners just "come" out. In both cases, the liners have to be pulled either through the use of a hydraulic puller/weld bead shrinkage (in the case of dry liners) or by use of an internal expansion plug and puller (we use the overhead crane) on a wet linered engine simply because the crevice seals are an interference fit.
In as much as installation, neither type is harder than the other. The wet liner still needs to be seated, while taking care that the crevice seals and "o" rings remain seated and the liner has to be either flush or seated in the deck recess. The dry liner can be literally "dropped" into the parent bore so long as the liner is properly shrunk by cooling in either dry ice (solid carbon dioxide) or in the deep freeze over night. Final fitment usually consists of rapping the top of the liner with either a brass hammer or wood block and drilling hammer to obtain a flush fit with the deck of the block.
5030
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 28,967
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Mr. Vader:
Bet if it does, you will loan me one of yours....right??......I never use the clutch anyway. Good truck drivers always shift without a clutch. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
If it did, though I doubt that it would, and it wasn't under warranty, I'd not be afraid to split it and replace it. Of course, I'd purchase a genuine Kubota Shop Manual beforehand.
Bet if it does, you will loan me one of yours....right??......I never use the clutch anyway. Good truck drivers always shift without a clutch. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
If it did, though I doubt that it would, and it wasn't under warranty, I'd not be afraid to split it and replace it. Of course, I'd purchase a genuine Kubota Shop Manual beforehand.
5030
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 28,967
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Mr. Vader:
May the Empire protect us........I looked and I don't have a clutch, like dry single plate. I have a hydraulic shuttle so my clutch is actually a clutch pack, wet, just like my motorcycle. Wet clutches never wear out, that is, until they do.
In all my trucking, 35 years, I've never wore out a clutch in any vehicle. Trucks have ceramic clutches anyway, so the hotter they get, the better they bite. Problem is, they score the flywheel so when you do replace one, you either face the flywheel or replace it.
May the Empire protect us........I looked and I don't have a clutch, like dry single plate. I have a hydraulic shuttle so my clutch is actually a clutch pack, wet, just like my motorcycle. Wet clutches never wear out, that is, until they do.
In all my trucking, 35 years, I've never wore out a clutch in any vehicle. Trucks have ceramic clutches anyway, so the hotter they get, the better they bite. Problem is, they score the flywheel so when you do replace one, you either face the flywheel or replace it.
Daryl I finally got my hands on prints of the " hydraulic wet clutch" and it looks like you are 100% correct. The way I interpret the drawings the input shaft must be engine driven via a torque converter bolted to a flex plate set up with ring gear for starting. I bet this engine fires counter clockwise because it looks like the reverse main pack drive shell is physically engage mechanically until the operator would shift the direction shuttle valve to forward at which time the oil flow pressurizes the forward main pack causing it's drive shell to engage the transmission's main synchronized four speeds.
The clutch petal looks like it is attached to a pressure reducing valve the schematic calls a "proportion" reducing valve whose A port is in series with a compensation valve they call a " modulating " valve. The oil flow comes from a positive displacement pump supplied with filtered oil from transmission case drain. What this means to me is the compensation valve acts like the springs in a clutch disc to take the shock loading during shifting through the four main gears. The pressurer reducing valve lets you slip the wet clutch packs like half clutching a pressure plate in a conventional mechanical system. One thing I can't get my hand on today is the operators manual. Does your manual say to 'clutch' between gears and ranges because I see no reason for it. and at the time of start up is there a neutral safety switch that would prevent the engine from starting?
If not, I think you experence a surge in the direction of the
shuttle valve is in. I'm going to order a M Series Saturday and I want to make sure I know what I'm in for before I shell out $40,000.
Ob1
The clutch petal looks like it is attached to a pressure reducing valve the schematic calls a "proportion" reducing valve whose A port is in series with a compensation valve they call a " modulating " valve. The oil flow comes from a positive displacement pump supplied with filtered oil from transmission case drain. What this means to me is the compensation valve acts like the springs in a clutch disc to take the shock loading during shifting through the four main gears. The pressurer reducing valve lets you slip the wet clutch packs like half clutching a pressure plate in a conventional mechanical system. One thing I can't get my hand on today is the operators manual. Does your manual say to 'clutch' between gears and ranges because I see no reason for it. and at the time of start up is there a neutral safety switch that would prevent the engine from starting?
If not, I think you experence a surge in the direction of the
shuttle valve is in. I'm going to order a M Series Saturday and I want to make sure I know what I'm in for before I shell out $40,000.
Ob1
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