M7060 Creeper Gears

[5030]

Why I run Kubota ag utility tractors. Less compaction.

 

[JWR]

Old thread, but here's my experience with adding creep speeds. This was on a different Kubota M series model, but the overall situation was about the same. The tractor came with 8 speed transmission (4 high and low). I bought a rear mount Orsi flail style ditch bank mower ...

With the creep speeds installed, the ditch bank mowing is much easier and I do a much cleaner job as I drop down into creep when necessary. Anyone who says creep speeds aren't useful probably hasn't done any work where the lower speed options are relevant. If you think you might find creep speeds useful, you almost certainly will.

Here are some photos of an Orsi RB215b on a different tractor.

Several things in common ! I now have 3 Kubota B2150s and all have creeper gears from the factory. As I said 3 years ago in this thread the creeper gear is THE thing for snowblowing. Secondly, I think you and I both must have visited Matt Valkenberg down in South Carolina at VMC. I too have an Orsi articulated arm mower from Matt but mine has a 4ft rotary brush hog he made me out on the business end rather than a flail cutter. Mine is an RB415B model. Not sure without chasing paper work the difference between an RB215 and an RB415.

 

[5030]

Someone has a NH Rollbelt in the background just like the one I traded in this spring for the Kubota round bailer.

 

[5030]

Kind of surprised that side mount isn't tippy on that tractor. Most of the ones I've see, the left hand wheel has extra weights on it to offset the mower head weight.

 

[JWR]

Kind of surprised that side mount isn't tippy on that tractor. Most of the ones I've see, the left hand wheel has extra weights on it to offset the mower head weight.

It is tippy. The mfr claims it is OK on a 50hp tractor and mine is an 81 horse weighing right at 9000 lbs as equipped plus the Orsi. And my rear tires are 8ft apart outer edges. The Orsi weighs 2100lbs according to Matt at VMC. It is good and stable until you are on the side of a hill (like a pond bank which you cannot cut without the mower on the lower side or a V-shaped ravine with brush in it which also has to be cut with the mower on the lower side.) In those cases it gets complicated. If the arm is only half way out = no problem. If the arm is all the way out, and you are on say a 30% slope, it will start to tip. Some of that is less scary than first blush because it stops tipping when the mower touches the ground on the low side. That comes as a surprise relief the first time you tip it. This one reaches out 17 feet. Great for overhanging limbs, ditches, etc.

 

[JWR]

Someone has a NH Rollbelt in the background just like the one I traded in this spring for the Kubota round bailer.

That rollbelt belongs to my farm renters as do the blue tractors. We have talked about mounting the Orsi on the larger of the blue ones if they decide they are interested. I'm getting too old and tired to take it on and off my tractor these days. A lot of tricks to doing it and things that have to be done to avoid damage to the tractor with that much weight hanging on the 3pt (I made supports for underneath.)

 

[5030]

Either one of my M9's would carry it just fine even fully extended, but the I run cast centers on both. Kin d of wish I had known about them before I purchased the bat wing, I would have went with one as I I have to contract the ditch mowing on 2 of my hayfields as 2 of them have drainage ditches next to them which I cannot mow. Is it totally self contained and PTO driven or do you run it off the remotes? My Cat 2-3 3 point can carry it with no issue I suspect and I have a tad more suds than you do too. If you ever decide to sell it, please contact me (PM), I'm very interested in it and you aren't all that far from me, couple hundred miles, not a big deal. I'm sure it would fit in my 1 ton long bed pickup truck. I actually considered buying a 3 point disc mower because they will mow a negative grade of 40% which is about the bank slope on the drainage ditches I deal with.

I fully understand the need to slow down, at 72 and a cancer survivor, things I used to take for granted are no longer taken for granted, why I only run the hay I do and don't want any more. I get requests all the time for hayfield mowing and bailing but I just tell them no. I have more than enough to deal with as it is and having one steady customer that buys it all and has bought all of it for the last 5 years is a blessing in itself. When I started out, I was bailing idiot cubes and that was all grunt work and then having to deal with the public and their 'I don't want to pay or the hay isn't quite what I wanted' or a million other excuses is all behind me now. Not even in the rear view mirror. Sold my idiot cube maker last summer on Tractor house and wasn't at all sad to see it go down the road on a drop deck. The purchaser got a well maintained square bailer and I even included the owners manual and the shop manual with it.

 

[Fezzik]

Figure'd i'd add to this post so others can see instead of creating a whole new post.

Installed the creeper gear for the m7060. I bought all my stuff last year from Messicks and finally got around to it this year. Need it for snowblowing. The turtle gear range was still too fast for me snowblowing large chunks. I saw this post on here which helped but i saw the pictures are gone now so I'll add my own.

and also a youtube video Ryan Lynch posted just a few months ago:

Ryan Lynch's Video on the install. It does a pretty good job. I'll add my suggestions and tips here and on facebook
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My tractor is not the cab model but the ROPS so a little different on how tank has the rear spout instead of the front is about all.

I DID NOT HAVE to remove the tire. Thanks to tractorbynet user MBU for that. That is what I dreaded to most about this install and that saved a bunch of headache. I took a picture showing how much room you have to work with. The hardest part of the install was removing and putting back the fuel tank. There is a breather hose on top that has a clamp that is a pain to get too. Much easier with my 16yo son helping. Also the lower skid plate has to be removed. And the hoses at the bottom have the be removed. BE SURE TO label where the hoses go because they look similar when removing and both run along the side of the tank. The fuel level sensor connector was not easy to remove because dirt had harden in the connector pretty well.one of my guide pin holes on the tractor was rusted pretty good for some reason so i had to get some fine sand paper and clean that up.In Ryan's video he had to tap the guid pins into the plate. I did not have to. they slid in well. The instructions say to tap into the tractor but the way ryan does it by putting in the cover plate and then seat onto the tractor is best. I just tighten the bolts evenly focusing on the two bolts on either side of the guide pin a little more. The gasket maker is what Messicks recommended and came with the creeper gear kit. Overall the install took me about 6 hours. But I did a complete fluid change, hyd oil filters, oil and filter change and fuel filer change since I had the fuel drained. Tractor said I had a little over 3/4 fuel left but i drained out 15 gallons of fuel.

Drain fuel:
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Remove the step. Also on the ROPS model there is bar going from the frame to the step. Keep that there but loose to help with the tank. I was able to use that to prop the tank partially down to get the connectors off.
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On ROPS model disconnect the rear filler from tank

Matt over the tank has to come off. 4 push pins. Careful on removal so you can reuse them. I have a special tool to get them out.
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Fuel level sensor. Was tough because of the dirt caked on there.
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Back side of sensor plug

The skid plate has to be removed. The drain plug is apart of the skid plate. Be sure to label the hoses as they need to go back in the right order.

Breather hose connector at the top back of the tank. This was what I considered the hardest one to get to to take off and on.

Picture from the back showing the breather hose that connects to the barb seen in the photo above.
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Picture showing how much room there is with the tank out of the way with the tire STILL ON. Plenty of room to work. See that guide pin hole. There was a lot of rust in there for me. Had to clean out well.
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The plate was secured on there well even after the bolts were off. I show here what I used to tap mine off. The plate had a little overhang on the bottom that i used a hammer and chisel to tap it off.

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Gear with coverplate. Putting guide pins in. In Ryan's video he had to tap them in. On mine they just slid into place.
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Messicks recommend this permatex. Working so far.

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Guide pins in the plate about to install.
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Painted the bolts

On the other side of the tractor. Removing the gear lever stop

Putting the fuel tank back. This SOB to get back on

 

[5030]

I'm glad my M shipped from Japan and came with the creep gears already installed. I also have the 2 speed PTO. One thing I never get is crud on top the fuel tanks because it gets blown off and pressure washed regularly. For gasket sealing, I only use 3 Bond, never RTV silicone.

 

[Fezzik]

I'm glad my M shipped from Japan and came with the creep gears already installed. I also have the 2 speed PTO. One thing I never get is crud on top the fuel tanks because it gets blown off and pressure washed regularly. For gasket sealing, I only use 3 Bond, never RTV silicone.

That is nice. 2 speed pto as in 1000 and 540? or pto and epto?
Also the gasket material i showed is NOT RTV silicone. I usually use 3 bond as well, but Messick's when I called them recommend this. Again it is NOT rtv siliocone. This stuff is made for transmission cases and all.