M9540 Belly Skid Plate/Brush Guard

[xring100]

Looks good I've been thinking about doing building something like this as well for my m8540. the low hanging fruit has always scarred me i try to be careful, after ripping of a brake line of my buddies JD 2040 while brush hogging some nasty brush

 

[ovrszd]

Looks good I've been thinking about doing building something like this as well for my m8540. the low hanging fruit has always scarred me i try to be careful, after ripping of a brake line of my buddies JD 2040 while brush hogging some nasty brush

As I said earlier, the first 200 hours of life on my M9540 were in the brush. I consider myself very careful and try to not get brush under the tractor. Clear a path as I go. I dented the hydraulic filter, lost a return spring, bent the factory shield around the hydraulic valves. unplugged one solenoid on the 3rd function valve and lost several retaining clips on the 3pt assembly. Can't imagine what I'd have damaged if I weren't "careful". I replaced all the clips with hard fasteners and added the skid plate to stop this pattern before expensive damage was done. I didn't do this to make the tractor indestructable, but more as a preventive measure.

 

[Rustyiron]

Richard, I re read most of this post and you mentioned a rear work light and factory wiring. Are these the wires (unused) on the r.h. side of the rops? And is it tied to the fact. sw? BTW, thanks for the bolt sizes earlier. The dealer had some of them and I went on a wild goose chase for the 1.5x18 that go in a hole that I don't think you used. I am in the woods with lots of stumps and rocks that are invisible in the summer with all the prickers (rasberries) & crap that have grown up since the last logging. This is the reason for my full "pan". I'm basically making 3 crossmembers. 1 at the rear axle, 1 at the back of trans and one at the clutch area, of 2x2x.25 sq tube that will hopefully support the tractor . Then for the engine and front area, I built some brackets that extend down from the front 2 loader bolts and running some bars back to the front new crossmember. I'm going to use .25 plate for the actual pan. This job has been a good "head scratcher" as to mounting points, making it removable for service, and ending up at the same "elevation" for a smooth skid pan along with trying to keep it reasonable in size while trying to guess at every angle a stick can get in and poke something. As you noted, there is a ton of stuff down there that is not protected at all, fine if you're just brushing it with some nice tall Timothy or something, but not so much for brush hogging saplings. In my terrain, I usually back in with the mower up high to (hopefully) see the rocks & stumps, then pull out with the mower lowered. This leaves some nasty "spears" on that the way out! Not to mention the "slash" that was left and the tires love to kick up. I am starting to do some paint primer now on some of the parts and I'll put some pic's up later. Maybe I'll start a thread. Thanks for your help.

 

[xring100]

Richard, I re read most of this post and you mentioned a rear work light and factory wiring. Are these the wires (unused) on the r.h. side of the rops? And is it tied to the fact. sw? BTW, thanks for the bolt sizes earlier. The dealer had some of them and I went on a wild goose chase for the 1.5x18 that go in a hole that I don't think you used. I am in the woods with lots of stumps and rocks that are invisible in the summer with all the prickers (rasberries) & crap that have grown up since the last logging. This is the reason for my full "pan". I'm basically making 3 crossmembers. 1 at the rear axle, 1 at the back of trans and one at the clutch area, of 2x2x.25 sq tube that will hopefully support the tractor . Then for the engine and front area, I built some brackets that extend down from the front 2 loader bolts and running some bars back to the front new crossmember. I'm going to use .25 plate for the actual pan. This job has been a good "head scratcher" as to mounting points, making it removable for service, and ending up at the same "elevation" for a smooth skid pan along with trying to keep it reasonable in size while trying to guess at every angle a stick can get in and poke something. As you noted, there is a ton of stuff down there that is not protected at all, fine if you're just brushing it with some nice tall Timothy or something, but not so much for brush hogging saplings. In my terrain, I usually back in with the mower up high to (hopefully) see the rocks & stumps, then pull out with the mower lowered. This leaves some nasty "spears" on that the way out! Not to mention the "slash" that was left and the tires love to kick up. I am starting to do some paint primer now on some of the parts and I'll put some pic's up later. Maybe I'll start a thread. Thanks for your help.

Yes their is actually factory wiring tucked away on both left and right hand sides of the tractor the power is live to both of these wires any time the ignition is on. The kubota light has a switch integral to the the back of the lamp housing. The stock kubota work light is 35 watts kind of sucks but is better than nothing i have not got around to replacing it yet. if need be the Rigid dually D2's i have can be turned to face backwards as they are mounted using Ram Mounts. Its about the equivalent of holding up a AA maglite next to a 55 watt headlamp on a car

by the way here is a nifty drain valve you can put into the drain plug on the side of the transmission case it is the Fumoto F105 if you get the F105 N it has a nipple that you can hook up a drain hose too to control the flow. http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f-105-valve.html I would not put it in the bottom drain but the side works good especially if you make the shield. you could use the N model and not have to worry about ripping it off. I put the normal model on mine because i don't have a shield made yet but it works a lot better than pulling the bottom drain plug and going oh crap what am i going to do with 16 gallons of oil as the first 5 gallons drains in about 45 seconds. You can lock the valve by putting it think a 5/8" quick hose clamp on it.

I didn't care about the engine oil as 3 gallons it is really easy to handle the 16 gallons in the trans is a different story

 

[ovrszd]

Richard, I re read most of this post and you mentioned a rear work light and factory wiring. Are these the wires (unused) on the r.h. side of the rops? And is it tied to the fact. sw? BTW, thanks for the bolt sizes earlier. The dealer had some of them and I went on a wild goose chase for the 1.5x18 that go in a hole that I don't think you used. I am in the woods with lots of stumps and rocks that are invisible in the summer with all the prickers (rasberries) & crap that have grown up since the last logging. This is the reason for my full "pan". I'm basically making 3 crossmembers. 1 at the rear axle, 1 at the back of trans and one at the clutch area, of 2x2x.25 sq tube that will hopefully support the tractor . Then for the engine and front area, I built some brackets that extend down from the front 2 loader bolts and running some bars back to the front new crossmember. I'm going to use .25 plate for the actual pan. This job has been a good "head scratcher" as to mounting points, making it removable for service, and ending up at the same "elevation" for a smooth skid pan along with trying to keep it reasonable in size while trying to guess at every angle a stick can get in and poke something. As you noted, there is a ton of stuff down there that is not protected at all, fine if you're just brushing it with some nice tall Timothy or something, but not so much for brush hogging saplings. In my terrain, I usually back in with the mower up high to (hopefully) see the rocks & stumps, then pull out with the mower lowered. This leaves some nasty "spears" on that the way out! Not to mention the "slash" that was left and the tires love to kick up. I am starting to do some paint primer now on some of the parts and I'll put some pic's up later. Maybe I'll start a thread. Thanks for your help.

On my tractor there are two unused circuits, one on each side located where the light bracket bolts to the ROPS. Both are ON when the key is turned on. So I had to add a switch to the light I used. I mounted it on the left side because I carry my chainsaw on the right.

When you get your skid done please start a thread. I'm anxious to see it. Don't forget to take lots of pics as you go.

As you mentioned, I think most damage in brush is done by changing direction with standing brush under the tractor. As careful as a guy can be, it still happens.

 

[ovrszd]

xring100, thanks for the tip concerning the drain valve. I totally understand trying to catch that 16 gallon of oil. I went thru that with my first change. I've ordered a 540/1000 rpm PTO conversion kit so will have to drain again to install it......

 

[xring100]

No problem. Could you start a thread when you install the pto if your doing the work yourself im curious whats involved. Ive seen a few things that would be nice but they had a 1000 rpm pto like a used batwing but i did not get this option

Dave

 

[ovrszd]

No problem. Could you start a thread when you install the pto if your doing the work yourself im curious whats involved. Ive seen a few things that would be nice but they had a 1000 rpm pto like a used batwing but i did not get this option

Dave

Yep, I'll start a thread with photos and my personal ramblings as always.

I never thought about it when I bought the tractor. When I started looking for a brush cutter I realized most in the size I wanted had 1000 rpm pto. My Brother has a 20' batwing and it's 1000. So I bought a conversion so the tractor can run either. Also bought a 10' 1000rpm cutter. Now for the big stuff I can borrow his 20 footer.

I ordered the kit from Messick's. Should have it in a couple weeks. As a side story, I had priced the kit thru Messick's at $1156 with free shipping. I contacted the dealer I bought the tractor from and they priced it at $1156 plus shipping. Go figure.

 

[Rustyiron]

Wow that's expensive! I read about it in the OM and (wishfully) thought that it was just a different pto shaft that perhaps was splined differently (on the inside) to engage a different set of gears inside. They make it sound like it's a simple 10 min job in the "book". I'd be curious to see some pics also. Thanks for the tip's both of you guy's.

 

[xring100]

No problem

Dave