Mag drill?

[Shield Arc]

Also curious as to how these annular cutters handle higher RPM when standard drill bits start smoking.

Wonder if I could convert my press to run annular, it's a tapered pin chuck drive.

I never seen them run with many RPMs so I can't help there.

I use them all the time on my mill. I took a 3/4 R-8 adapter cut about 1/4 off the end, ground down one of the catch lips on the annular cutters, they work great! :thumbsup:

 

[dfkrug]

Also curious as to how these annular cutters handle higher RPM when standard drill bits start smoking.

Wonder if I could convert my press to run annular, it's a tapered pin chuck drive.

They do fine at 450RPM because they only cut out a ring (annulus), and
therefore much less metal, versus a same-size twist bit.

Anyway, I converted my drill press to run the annular cutters and run at
180RPM. See here:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/169219-annular-cutters-better-way-drill.html

For those who have invested in the mag drills, maybe you would use
the annular cutters more if you could use them on thinner steel in your
press or mill?

If you are a pro and need to drill big holes in steel fairly often, you might
consider cobalt or carbide annular cutters. HSS is fine for me. I bought
a set of 6 Evolution cutters for $100.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I have a Milwaukee mag drill and only use it for drilling large holes on flat surfaces. I have never figured a good way to line it up when trying to drill something like a frame rail. It is just to heavy to hold in position line up the hole and then turn on the magnet.
Bill

 

[OrangeinWis]

I have a Milwaukee mag drill and only use it for drilling large holes on flat surfaces. I have never figured a good way to line it up when trying to drill something like a frame rail. It is just to heavy to hold in position line up the hole and then turn on the magnet.
Bill

Our Jancy, Hole Hawg, and Milwaukee magnetic drills are all adjusted to the center punch the same way, they are gently? tapped into place with a ball peen hammer or what have you, we mag them higher than the hole center and let gravity take over while adjusting them, works going up also while vertical pos. Yes you will mar the magnet with hammer marks, our tool mechanic says he never has to touch the magnetic area during repairs from such use. Hope this helps, mag drills sure can take the load off a person's wrists.

 

[Danno1]

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We have a mag drill at work that has an X-Y adjustment. Just get it close w the magnet and then dial it in exactly. Milwaukee, I think? Pretty large unit!


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[dfkrug]

We have a mag drill at work that has an X-Y adjustment. Just get it close w the magnet and then dial it in exactly. Milwaukee, I think? Pretty large unit!

An X-Y adjustment would be a very good option. I guess a hammer
works as a form of brutal X-Y adjustment.

Anyway, on frame rails I imagine that the thin steel will keep the
magnet from holding on very well (HOOKED).

 

[Danno1]

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..................thin steel will keep the
magnet from holding on very well.............

That's correct. I borrowed the one fr work to drill my bucket a few years back and while it would hold it's own weight, it would not hold against the pressure of drilling.



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[dfkrug]

I borrowed the one fr work to drill my bucket a few years back and while it would hold it's own weight, it would not hold against the pressure of drilling.

And your bkt was 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick, most likely. Sometimes you
can put a thick piece of steel behind the area you are drilling, but that
won't work for tubing or non-planar surfaces.

I first used a magdrill back in the mid 70s at a lab where I worked. I
do not remember having any annular cutters back then, however.

 

[DanD78]

I have a Milwaukee mag drill and only use it for drilling large holes on flat surfaces. I have never figured a good way to line it up when trying to drill something like a frame rail. It is just to heavy to hold in position line up the hole and then turn on the magnet.
Bill

My Milwaukee is adjustable after it is stuck to the work. There is a toggle lever that can be backed off so the drill head can be moved around. My old Black & Decker has to be tapped around.

As far as the magnet pulling up when drilling I think I read in the book where the base material has to be 1/2" thick for full magnetic force. I have never tried a backing plate under thinner material. I have stuck the drill to a chunk of 1/2" plate and clamped the plate to thin material to use the Steel Hawg cutters.

If you are using it in any other position than flat be sure to add a safety chain in case the power fails. No power = no magnet = it's going to fall

 

[Danno1]

And your bkt was 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick, most likely......

3/16.


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