majic paint

[allen6634]

has anyone used that majic paint? if so how did you apply it? i want to spray it on my stuff and ididn't see any thing about using thinner on the can, idon't think the reducer will thin it enuff.

 

[LD1]

Don't waste your money. The paint sucks. Here are a few threads here about it if you search. I am on a smartphone now otherwise I would search and link for you.

But short answer, you use some other reducer along with the paint and hardener.

 

[DT86]

We used some on a Deere several years ago and the color was nasty. The yellow turned out chalky looking and the green was almost an olive green.

I agree don't waste your money.

 

[Code54]

What LD1 and DT86 said - its crap. Mine took forever to dry and the color faded quickly.

 

[Soundguy]

i liked bps / valspar. this magic is inferior quality. can't find the valspar anymore.. so went with nason syn enamil.. a lil more $ but lays down nice.

Ont he magic. the plain alkyd hardner from valspar or the quick cure nason syn enamil hardner.. and naptha for spraying.. or mineral spirits for brushing. or at least that is what I recall the can I bought said.

 

[sixdogs]

Buy the factory acrylic enamel if you can get it and thin with acetone. Much better quality, faster dry time and better gloss. I would steer clear of the hardeners until and unless you understand the risks associated with isocyanides. One use can cause permanent damage without a proper supplied air system.

I wasn't happy with the Majic paint either. Super quality paint doesn't cost that much more.

Here's a photo of New Holland Red--1950's red--acrylic enamel on an old beat up piece of farm equipment. Look at the depth of that color and the shine. And it will stay shiny.

 

[allen6634]

sounds like ,i dodged a bullet but asking here before i bought any ,thanks guys for the advice.

 

[paulharvey]

I've used Majik, about 3 gallons total. You can thin with mineral spirits, or there own reducer (which after some research turned out to be ... mineral spirits). I didn't use hardener with the primers, did with the color. I don't know how much of my problems where caused by the paint, the gun, the air, the environment, or the operator. One thing to keep in mind is that at TSC or ASC the can might have been on the shelf for 3 years, and they don't mix well with all the solids in the primers.

Would I use it again? The cheap gray primer, sure, but it's slow drying, and you have to make sure to avoid solvent pockets from re coating before dry. The color; I might on my 1976 L285, but I'm going to look into other options in the ~$30 range too first.

 

[sixdogs]

I've used Majik, about 3 gallons total. You can thin with mineral spirits, or there own reducer (which after some research turned out to be ... mineral spirits). I didn't use hardener with the primers, did with the color. I don't know how much of my problems where caused by the paint, the gun, the air, the environment, or the operator. One thing to keep in mind is that at TSC or ASC the can might have been on the shelf for 3 years, and they don't mix well with all the solids in the primers.

Would I use it again? The cheap gray primer, sure, but it's slow drying, and you have to make sure to avoid solvent pockets from re coating before dry. The color; I might on my 1976 L285, but I'm going to look into other options in the ~$30 range too first.

On the early Kubota 285, look into Orange I (not Orange II) from a dealer. It is acrylic enamel and one of the most beautiful dealer paints out there. Works like a charm, dries quick and is durable.

I believe tractor makers make such fine paint and price it so reasonable to encourage guys to paint their equipment and paint it. What better advertising than pride of ownership and fine looking equipment? It's a billboard on wheels.

 

[Soundguy]

I wasn't awar CIH was using an acrilic or acrilic moded paint. thought it was straight alkyd tech...

Buy the factory acrylic enamel if you can get it and thin with acetone. Much better quality, faster dry time and better gloss. I would steer clear of the hardeners until and unless you understand the risks associated with isocyanides. One use can cause permanent damage without a proper supplied air system.

I wasn't happy with the Majic paint either. Super quality paint doesn't cost that much more.

Here's a photo of New Holland Red--1950's red--acrylic enamel on an old beat up piece of farm equipment. Look at the depth of that color and the shine. And it will stay shiny.

View attachment 375514

 

[sixdogs]

Uh-oh, Soundguy. I went out to take a picture of the can for you and you are indeed correct. It is alkyd and I said acrylic.

I'm not sure how that happened since I am certain I saw the word "acrylic" on their shelf on one of the paints. It could have been the New Holland Red, a different and more modern color from recent NH balers. rakes and such. Perhaps they kept this one as alkyd because it is more historically correct? In any event it is a superior quality paint that performs very well.

Sorry for my error but the point is the same. Use great quality paint and the best deal is factory paint. I m 100% certain Kubota is acrylic as is Case-IH since I recently sprayed it.

 

[Code54]

I used some of the Kubota branded paint a while back and was very pleased with the results. I seem to recall it was a bit pricey but I can live with that if the quality is on par with the price!

 

[Soundguy]

Uh-oh, Soundguy. I went out to take a picture of the can for you and you are indeed correct. It is alkyd and I said acrylic.

I'm not sure how that happened since I am certain I saw the word "acrylic" on their shelf on one of the paints. It could have been the New Holland Red, a different and more modern color from recent NH balers. rakes and such. Perhaps they kept this one as alkyd because it is more historically correct? In any event it is a superior quality paint that performs very well.

Sorry for my error but the point is the same. Use great quality paint and the best deal is factory paint. I m 100% certain Kubota is acrylic as is Case-IH since I recently sprayed it.

better check that too. last gal of cih 2150 i picked up was alkyk.

their iron guard may be acrilic.. don't know. rickB might know.

 

[sixdogs]

better check that too. last gal of cih 2150 i picked up was alkyk.

their iron guard may be acrilic.. don't know. rickB might know.

I sprayed the CIH red last fall and was acrylic. Acrylic is so great I go out of my way to search for it.

 

[Soundguy]

was yours the iron guard or the older can 2150 red?

 

[sixdogs]

was yours the iron guard or the older can 2150 red?

I'm nearly certain Iron Guard.

I cut out a piece of plate steel and painted--no primer--it about six or seven years ago. It almost looks like the day I painted it and remains shiny and perky.

 

[varmint]

My experience with tractor paint is using Kubota's "new" orange... I have sprayed a quart of it, and I am quite happy with it. I used xylene as a thinner- worked nicely, but it does slow down drying time a tiny bit. No hardener. The paint was pricey, but sprayed, and covered, very well.

 

[Soundguy]

The iron guard may very well be acrilic / or modified paint. the older 2150 i'm almost certain was plain alkyd.

 

[sixdogs]

The iron guard may very well be acrilic / or modified paint. the older 2150 i'm almost certain was plain alkyd.

I'm not sure how long ago I painted this with the Case IH Red but it was probably five or more years ago and has been outside in the sun and elements ever since. It looks almost like the day I painted it and whatever it is it's great paint and stays glossy and hard.

 

[Soundguy]

i've had great look with basic straight alkyd paints. untill recently they were all i used. When valspar / tsc / bps left.. I've jumped over to the nason syn enamils.. and had great luck with them.

Didn't like that resto quality or magic paint.