Manifold grease fitting

[PILOON]

On an exhaust manifold it would be to fit a rectal thermometer! LOL

Mind U I know of some engines that had remote quick start installations that would have needed some pipeing going back to the dash from the intake manifold.
Had a Deere 510 with such a set up.

That or water injection to boost HP as in WW2 aircraft,

 

[jinman]

I noticed the manifold in the link had 8 ports. Isn't the engine on the MF35 a 4-cyl? Is this a combination exhaust and intake manifold with that port being a place to check manifold vacuum?

 

[smstonypoint]

I noticed the manifold in the link had 8 ports. Isn't the engine on the MF35 a 4-cyl? Is this a combination exhaust and intake manifold with that port being a place to check manifold vacuum?

Jim,

Check post #11.

Steve

 

[Ford tractor]

Is this a combination exhaust and intake manifold with that port being a place to check manifold vacuum?

Yes, that's it exactly.

 

[jinman]

Jim,

Check post #11.

Steve

Hey! I'm a day late and a $ short, but at least I called it right. I swear I didn't notice the answers in the thread, but I'd have probably forgotten them at my advanced age anyhow.:ashamed:

 

[DJ54]

By the way, that would be a 1/8" NPT plug....

 

[Gem99ultra]

>snip Now I have to try to get the manifold off without breaking any of the studs. I'll be back on this website if I do, to figure out how to deal with that problem:laughing:

<snip

Lots of luck on getting the exhaust manifold off without breaking any studs. Lots of penetrating oil, maybe some heat, lots of good luck, is what that takes

Remember back in the old days ('40s - '50s) where almost every car had a metal tube running from the manifold, either intake or exhaust? One for timing advance and one for choke heat? Those were really a pain - and usually broke off or frozen so you couldn't remove it. Thank goodness for modern electronics!

 

[birddog10]

Thanks for all the advice. The manifold is OFF without a hitch. The nuts seemed to loosen fairly easily making me think it's been done before since the 1962 production of this particular tractor. I almost thought I was going to have to cut the old manifold off in pieces just to get to some of the nuts:confused2: It they were really rusted on that probably would have been my only option.

 

[milkman]

Thanks for all the advice. The manifold is OFF without a hitch. The nuts seemed to loosen fairly easily making me think it's been done before since the 1962 production of this particular tractor. I almost thought I was going to have to cut the old manifold off in pieces just to get to some of the nuts:confused2: It they were really rusted on that probably would have been my only option.

You're a lucky man, get out and buy a lottery ticket.

 

[birddog10]

Not just yet. I still need to get the old gasket off, put on the new gasket and manifold, hook it up to the carb, make sure I don't drop a nut into the engine:laughing:, reattach the muffler, and then fire it up. This is the first time I've ever attempted anything like this, and though it appears to be an easy task, especially after getting advice from people on this site, I'm still waiting for something to go wrong.

 

[RPW]

If the studs are really rusty you might end up breaking them while installing the new manifold. If you feel real lucky soak studs in PB Blaster or equivelent let soak in for awhile apply a bit of heat to the block and hope to get studs out. Replace with new and use antisieze on threads.

Good luck.

 

[Soundguy]

In your first post, you said "exhaust manifold", it threw me for a loop along with others, now that we know that it is in the intake manifold, it makes sense. :thumbsup:

ditto that. my first impression was intake manifold vacume port.. but the op said exhaust manifold.. ford N's with oem manifolds have those fittings tapped and plugged for use as needed.

soudnguy

 

[jimmysisson]

I doubt you'll have trouble with the studs. Run a die over them if you want, after plugging the head openings with tape or something. Those are pretty good steel even after all these years.
Jim

 

[birddog10]

No, i didn't have any problem at all. I got the old manifold off and the new one on today. One problem though. The manifold is an "intake/exhaust" combination. There are 8 nuts, 4 on top and 4 on the bottom, that hold it on. I was able to tighten 6 of those nuts. The two inner, UPPER, nuts are impossible. The gas tank is in the way for me to get a wrench to move upward. The new manifold is very thick compared to the old rusty one so I can't get a ratchet on the nut, and I can't reach in between the exhaust part and the intake part with a 9/16 socket because the socket won't go through the gap. Too big. I was able to put the nut on with my finger but that was it. I need to devise a way to come straight at it, like a socket, with something that will grip onto the nut and allow me to turn it. OR take the stupid gas tank off. Man, i don't really want to do that. The old manifold broke into 3 pieces as I took it off so I was glad I changed it but this is driving me NUTS (pun intended):laughing:

 

[Soundguy]

4 choices I see.. 2 involve yardsale or chinese or cheap tools.

1, loosen fuel tank and see if it buys you any room without taking it completely off. even if you can get 1 turn facing at a time it's worth it.

2, get a set of crowsfoot wrench heads for your ratchet, IF they will have clearance... visualy inspect BEFORE purchasing.

3, make a stubby wrench ie.. cut a cheap wrench or heat it and bend. I got a whole set of stubby or bent wrenches that I made up for specific time saving 'cheater' repairs.

4, grind a socket real thin so it grabs the nut.. but not so thin it brakes thru.

and a 5th as honorable mention.. use a die grinder with chainsaw sharpening stone and very slightly enlarge the area around the nut so you can get that shaved down socket you just made, in there..

btdt and got the cut up tools to proove it...

soundguy

 

[jimmysisson]

Did you try with a 9/16" 1/4" drive socket? Barely strong enough to tighten with 1/4" drive but quite a bit better than loose. I have one I have used a lot.
Jim

 

[birddog10]

I was thinking about trying a 1/4 inch 9/16 but the last 2 hardware stores I went in to didn't have one. I'll look around and see. I'm probably going to buy a cheap, thin 9/16th wrench, cut the handle to make it stubby (about an inch or so long) (as mentioned above:thumbsup which will allow me to tighten the nut down enough on the stud which will allow me to get my close end 9/16 on it to tighten it further. If I made it with only a 2 inch handle I'll bet I could get a 1/2 turn out of it. I really don't want to even begin screwing around with removing or lifting the gas tank.

Thanks to all those with good ideas and suggestions:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Jim

 

[Soundguy]

i've even made a stubby rwench that accepted a socket drive.. IE.. cheap crows foot.. etc.

soundguy

 

[638]

I've made long (tall?) nuts by welding two nuts together. Another way would be to weld a short piece of pipe between two nuts. You can also buy long nuts from your local electrical supply house. Electricans use them to join allthread together for conduit hangers.

 

[Soundguy]

tsc carries those hex long coupler nuts for allthread as well.

soundguy