Massey Ferguson 135 issues

[BigHoss165]

Hello all, I bought a 1970 massey Ferguson 135 with a perkins diesel. I bought it as "not running". I'm no diesel mechanic by any means but ain't scared to try. I started with changing the fuel filter and caught heck bleeding the air from the system. Finally got it bled as far as I know and got the tractor to finally start by spraying WD-40 into the intake while spinning it over. Had to spray a good bit until it caught up speed and would run on it's own. I let it sit and run for about 5 minutes or so to get some heat in things. 2 issues I found so far... it was pushing oil out of the dipstick tube and the front of the valve cover. Once started the oil gauge pegs out and stays there. Not sure what normal range is. Other issue Is when you throttle the tractor it starts missing and blowing black smoke and eventually clears up and revs up. Any ideas what could be wrong?

 

[Roadworthy]

Black smoke is frequently an indicator of lack of air. This can also make a tractor difficult to impossible to start. If oil is pushing out the dipstick tube I'm guessing the crankcase is overfilled. It might be from oil being filled too high. On some tractors (don't know about Massey) the hydraulic pump is driven off the crankshaft. If the seal in the oil pump leads it is possible for hydraulic fluid to be dumped into the crankcase. Too much oil can cause the engine to hydrolock (or whatever the term is) with resultant bent connecting rods.

 

[Agvg]

On a MF 135 you have to loosen one or two of the lines on the injectors to bleed it if it's run completely empty, there are no hydraulic pump on the engine except for power steering, might leak diesel from the feeding pump or injection pump in to the crankcase. Suppose you have checked oil level on the engine.

 

[redman135]

On my 135 I would get fuel to both bleeders on the injector pump then crack no 2 or no3 injector lines (best access) at the injector to get running.

Re the oil coming out the dipstick hole,2 possibilities: you may have broken piston rings, letting the crankcase get preassurised.
Do you have power steering on that tractor? Some were retro fitted with power steering. If so then the internal O ring seal can fail and dump oil from the power steering system into the engine oil, leading to an over full sump.

Oil preassure gauge, if it has oil in the gauge face CHANGE it as the oil preassure will cause the gauge face to explode in YOUR face . Mine did. Back in the day this was a known problem to mechanics.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I agree w the other posters.. CHECK THE OIL LEVEL FIRST..
If the oil is HI.. check it for FUEL in the oil.. those little CAV inj. pumps are know to blow the front seal in the inj. pump if left to sit..

 

[BigHoss165]

Black smoke is frequently an indicator of lack of air. This can also make a tractor difficult to impossible to start. If oil is pushing out the dipstick tube I'm guessing the crankcase is overfilled. It might be from oil being filled too high. On some tractors (don't know about Massey) the hydraulic pump is driven off the crankshaft. If the seal in the oil pump leads it is possible for hydraulic fluid to be dumped into the crankcase. Too much oil can cause the engine to hydrolock (or whatever the term is) with resultant bent connecting rods.

When I got it I changed the oil and filter so I know it wasn't overfilled. I even checked it again before I tried to crank it the other day and it was still the same as when I changed it. You mentioned lack of air, where would I check for passages? I checked the air cleaner for restrictions.

 

[BigHoss165]

On my 135 I would get fuel to both bleeders on the injector pump then crack no 2 or no3 injector lines (best access) at the injector to get running.

Re the oil coming out the dipstick hole,2 possibilities: you may have broken piston rings, letting the crankcase get preassurised.
Do you have power steering on that tractor? Some were retro fitted with power steering. If so then the internal O ring seal can fail and dump oil from the power steering system into the engine oil, leading to an over full sump.

Oil preassure gauge, if it has oil in the gauge face CHANGE it as the oil preassure will cause the gauge face to explode in YOUR face . Mine did. Back in the day this was a known problem to mechanics.

There is no oil in the gauge. No the tractor has no power steering.

 

[BigHoss165]

Thank ya'll for the help and advice and prompt replies

 

[joecdeere]

Failed diaphragm in engine mounted fuel lift/hand primer pump will fill crankcase in just a minute, mine did it last year

 

[BigHoss165]

Failed diaphragm in engine mounted fuel lift/hand primer pump will fill crankcase in just a minute, mine did it last year

Okay I'll check there too.

 

[BigHoss165]

Haven't had much opportunity to look at it it's been raining so much. I did check the oil and the level is still full. I don't really know what to check to know if it's mixing with diesel. It doesn't run off the stick when you pull it out. I checked the vent tube coming from the valve cover and it wasn't clogged. Tractor still won't crank on it's on. Have to spray WD-40 while spinning it over. Do I need to go buy a compression test kit and check that? Will that tell if it's a possible cracked ring or piston? Just trying to check all I can before I have to look into a rebuild.

 

[JethroB]

Here is a copy of the MF 135 owners manual in pdf format. Perhaps you will find it useful. Our 135 has been in the family since new in 1975. 5300+ hours and counting. Good luck and enjoy.

 

[BigHoss165]

Here is a copy of the MF 135 owners manual in pdf format. Perhaps you will find it useful. Our 135 has been in the family since new in 1975. 5300 plus hours and counting. Good luck and enjoy.

Thank you very much. I already purchased the owner's manual, parts manual, and service manual

 

[redman135]

BigHoss165, to check for diesel in engine oil, pull the dipstick and smell it, you said you changed the engine so there should NOY be any diesel smell. 2nd test is to rub some btween finger and thumb, oil only will feel smooth, while dieseled oil will feel thin and smell.

Lastly, Black Smoke, 2 things, check the rubber pipe between the air filter is not collapsing under revs.
next, you don't say weather you have a paper or oil bath filter. If oil bath release the ring clamp (near bottom of air filter) and remove of filter and change the oil (oil level marked) then remove the internal canister, this is about 2" thick. It is desiged to be washable. Get some petrol and brush the crap out of the bottom of the mesh. The internal canister is tightly packed steel mesh, and near imposible to repack, so don't open it.

 

[BigHoss165]

BigHoss165, to check for diesel in engine oil, pull the dipstick and smell it, you said you changed the engine so there should NOY be any diesel smell. 2nd test is to rub some btween finger and thumb, oil only will feel smooth, while dieseled oil will feel thin and smell.

Lastly, Black Smoke, 2 things, check the rubber pipe between the air filter is not collapsing under revs.
next, you don't say weather you have a paper or oil bath filter. If oil bath release the ring clamp (near bottom of air filter) and remove of filter and change the oil (oil level marked) then remove the internal canister, this is about 2" thick. It is desiged to be washable. Get some petrol and brush the crap out of the bottom of the mesh. The internal canister is tightly packed steel mesh, and near imposible to repack, so don't open it.

Far as I know it's not the oil bath one but I will double check. I'll search to see if I can find pictures of both to see which one I have. Okay thank you I will check the oil tomorrow

 

[mllud]

Haven't had much opportunity to look at it it's been raining so much. I did check the oil and the level is still full. I don't really know what to check to know if it's mixing with diesel. It doesn't run off the stick when you pull it out. I checked the vent tube coming from the valve cover and it wasn't clogged. Tractor still won't crank on it's on. Have to spray WD-40 while spinning it over. Do I need to go buy a compression test kit and check that? Will that tell if it's a possible cracked ring or piston? Just trying to check all I can before I have to look into a rebuild.

In the photo below the damage to the piston was caused by thee previous owner using starting fluid. Two of three cylinders had cracked lands and rings. I'm not sure if wd40 could also do similar damage.
Does your manifold heater work. If its working properly you can see diesel vapor at the intake manifold after 15 seconds holding the switch with the air cleaner disconnected. It will start if you have diesel fuel vaporizing. In warmer weather a good engine will state without the heater. You may want to do a compression check.
Avoid using fluids to start the engine. Its doing nothing to solve the starting issue.
Will the engine restart on its own after its warmed up?
Your fuel will bleed down out of the injector lines and loose prime if you have leaks at the filters or in any lines.


The piston rings weren't lined up like that when it was removed. I turned them to show damage to the lands.

 

[BigHoss165]

In the photo below the damage to the piston was caused by thee previous owner using starting fluid. Two of three cylinders had cracked lands and rings. I'm not sure if wd40 could also do similar damage.
Does your manifold heater work. If its working properly you can see diesel vapor at the intake manifold after 15 seconds holding the switch with the air cleaner disconnected. It will start if you have diesel fuel vaporizing. In warmer weather a good engine will state without the heater. You may want to do a compression check.
Avoid using fluids to start the engine. Its doing nothing to solve the starting issue.
Will the engine restart on its own after its warmed up?
Your fuel will bleed down out of the injector lines and loose prime if you have leaks at the filters or in any lines.


The piston rings weren't lined up like that when it was removed. I turned them to show damage to the lands.
View attachment 661449

Mine doesn't have the heater on it. No it won't start on it's own after warmed up. I let it run about 10 minutes and it wouldn't start back up on it's own.

 

[mllud]

Mine doesn't have the heater on it. No it won't start on it's own after warmed up. I let it run about 10 minutes and it wouldn't start back up on it's own.

Your tractor sat for a time and has unknown history. The injection pump is a lot more complicated than a carb.. It controls timing of injection. If you want to have dependable starting and running , start with an injection pump rebuild. The fact that it will run is a plus. Even if your engine ends up needing a rebuild you need an injection pump that you know is working right. Its money well spent.
There is a forum member thepumpguySC that rebuilds pumps. You wont find a more trustworthy fair guy to rebuild your pump. Google him.

No heater ??? Look on the intake for a wire connection and a small fuel tubing going too it

 

[mllud]

Yours could very well be different. Inside the red circle is a manifold hearer that's fed by diesel fuel. Not a block heater. The wire is off of the one pictured

 

[BigHoss165]

Yours could very well be different. Inside the red circle is a manifold hearer that's fed by diesel fuel. Not a block heater. The wire is off of the one pictured

View attachment 661495

Mine just has a plug right there