Matching attachment size to tractor

[dnw64]

Is there a post or page anyone could suggest that has basic HP requirements for different types/sizes of attachments?

 

[smstonypoint]

See https://www.extension.iastate.edu/agdm/crops/xls/a3-28tractorsize.xlsx. Note that 4WD applies to the large articulated ag. tractors.

Steve

 

[RjCorazza]

You could also check out various manufacturers www sites for hp recommendations. Land Pride, HLA, BefCo, etc list very general ranges for implement widths.
May be better to post your machine specs, implement type, and work to be done to get some real world answers and / or opinions.

 

[teg]

What works in sandy Florida may not work in Rocky Vermont!!! Likewise, a light duty mower vs. a heavy duty mower of the same size would work on some tractors but not others.

Shoot, the basic 5-hp per mower foot doesn't even work on my tractor (I would even like to try a larger 6 footer but I know that would be pushing it too much).

Best to just ask, I run a 6 foot box blade that is oversized for my tractor but I can make it work just fine.

 

[dnw64]

See https://www.extension.iastate.edu/agdm/crops/xls/a3-28tractorsize.xlsx. Note that 4WD applies to the large articulated ag. tractors.

Steve

Very interesting, but a little too "working farm" for me. I'm just a homeowner...

 

[dnw64]

OK, I guess I was being a bit unrealistic that there might be something out there.

I have a 22.5HP HST with a claimed 18.7HP at the PTO.

I currently have a 48" tiller and it has plenty of power to run that in virgin VT lawn.

At this point I am looking at getting a finish mower and brush hog. I have roughly 1.5 acres to mow and 7-8 acres to brush hog. Although some of that may be mowable too. We just bought the property this winter and haven't seen it without snow. I think I'd prefer a belly mower, but used ones seem to be about as scarce as loaders and hen's teeth.

I may want a bigger tractor, so I thought a handy chart might help me figure it out. I am not one who enjoys mowing, so if it's got to be done I'd rather spend less time on it. My brother-in-law is living with us and has offered to do some mowing, but I'm not sure I can count on that consistently - he's on full disability with a heart at 30% capacity.

 

[jeff9366]

Pasture mowing 7-8 acres with 7" of ground clearance will be rough indeed.

Larger wheels and tires BRIDGE ruts, holes and burrows so much better.

A 48" wide Bush Hog, allowing for 6" overlap, cuts 42" in each swathe.

A 60" wide Bush Hog, allowing for 6" overlap, cuts 54" in each swathe.

Etc.

If you keep Rotary Cutter (AKA Bush Hog, a brand of Rotary Cutter) blades sharp, and can resist cutting saplings, you may find you get an acceptable/NOT fabulous, cut on both turf and pasture with the single implement. Blade sharpness and optimal 'Hog adjustment both important.


Massey Ferguson GC2300 - dimensions
2005 - 2008 GC Series
Next model: Massey Ferguson GC2400

Dimensions:
Weight (shipping): 1,367 lbs [620 kg]
Wheelbase: 57.1 inches [145 cm]
Length: 97.6 inches [247 cm]
Width: 45.8 inches [116 cm]
Height: 72.8 inches [184 cm]
Ground clearance: 6.9 inches [17 cm]

Engine Detail:
Iseki
diesel
3-cylinder
liquid-cooled
68.5 ci [1.1 L]
Power: 22.5 hp [16.8 kW]

 

[Turbys_1700]

I ran a 5 foot Land Pride rear finish mower with a YM 1700 Yanmar for 14 years just fine. The Yanmar was a lightweight 2 WD tractor at 1550 pounds. My rear tires were loaded so I figure my tractor was around 1850# at the time. I also ran a lightweight 5 foot Squealer Bush Hog with the tractor and it was OK with it. Just had to be careful on side hill mowing due to the light weight and narrow width of the tractor. The Yamnar was 17 HP at the PTO. I would consider 5 foot implements the upper end of it's capacity.

I traded the YM 1700 in on a New Holland 1720 that was front wheel assist, 23.5 HP at the PTO, and 3300# with loaded tires. Those 5 foot implements were handled much easier. I later sold the 5 foot Land Pride and now run a 6 foot Woods PRD. Much heavier duty unit than the Land Pride. The 1720 handled it fine but it certainly was aware of the added weight of the Woods PRD. I consider the 1720 a 5 foot implement tractor.

I now have a Workmaster 50 that weighs over 6000# with loaded rears. I run a Brown 472 brush cutter with it that weighs around 1100# just fine. It would handle an 8 footer and possibly a 10 foot pull type brush cutter. I sold my 5 foot box blade and bought a 7 foot box blade to go with it. I also have an old Rhino Super Utility 8 foot rear blade that is 760# and the Workmaster pulls it fine.

For the most part implements can be matched to your rear tire width. The lighter the tractor the lighter your implements need to be. Nothing is set in stone. If the implement you are buying has a manufacturers suggested HP and weight requirements that is a good start.

 

[jeff9366]

I want a bigger tractor, so I thought a chart might help me figure it out.

The best way to shop for tractors is to determine your tasks first, then determine how much bare tractor weight you need to SAFELY accomplish as many of your tasks as possible. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites.

Hillside work demands more tractor weight than flat land work. Heavier tractors have greater wheel spread making them more stable. Heavier tractors have larger wheels and tires better able to bridge holes and ruts without the tractor rolling over. Larger wheels and tires provide a much smoother ride over rough ground. Heavier tractors have greater inertia to resist rollovers when moving heavy loads in the FEL, the most hazardous of routine tractor tasks, especially hazardous on sloped land.

For most tasks greater tractor chassis weight is far more important than tractor horsepower. This tractor fundamental is difficult for people new to tractors to comprehend.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range.

Tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight are offered in one configuration. Most, such as the high volume Kubota standard L series, are prosaically equipped to hit competitive price points. Others, such as the Yanmar YT235 and Kubota B2650/B3350 series, are splendidly adorned.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight are operated in residential applications on one to five fairly flat acres. These "residential tractors" fit in a typical garage.

Tractors over 3,000 pounds bare weight are generally offered in a utilitarian configuration and a deluxe configuration, on a common chassis. Deluxe kit enhances productivity and operating comfort ~~~ but you have to pay. Many are too tall to fit in a typical garage, even with ROPS folded down.

I like to spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

It takes a 50% increase in tractor weight before you notice a significant tractor capability increase. It takes a 100% increase in tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider, implements for a heavier tractor is a pain and often a big hit in depreciation. ((Ask me how I know.)) Many who buy too light tractors buy too light implements.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, is a priority for me; less so for others, well experienced with tractors, who do their own maintenance. For most new to tractors a quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is essential. My kubota dealer is six miles away.

Horsepower is a primary consideration only operating PTO powered implements.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

I suggest your next tractor should be 2,600 to 2,800 pounds, bare tractor. Tractors in this weight range will have 12" to 13" ground clearance. A 25-horsepower, 100 cubic inch displacement tractor engine can spin a 60" wide Rotary Cutter through dry 18" grass at normal operating speed. Can cut slightly taller grass at very low speed.

More horsepower on same 2,600 pound to 2,800 pound chassis will allow you to mow faster and an increment taller grass.

Is mowing the only task(s) you foresee? I think not.

 

[RalphVa]

Think category 0 goes up to about 18 to 20 hp. A bush hog (and probably a mower) takes 5 hp/ft. Not sure what hp a rotatiller takes/ft, maybe about the same as a bush hog?

I've a category 0 chipper/shredder. Had it originally on an 18.5 hp tractor. Just fine. My current 24.5 hp one is run at a lower rpm on it. Same with a 4' bush hog: fine on the 18.5 hp. Run at lower rpm on the current tractor. Never had a rotatiller. Can't comment.

For category 0 on a cat 1 tractor, you just need bushings at each TPH point.

Wish the tractor manufacturers would put the goodies on their lower hp units like they offer on bigger hp units. Kubota seems to be a bit better for this. You can get more, for instance, on a B2301 Kubota than you can on a JD 1025R (a piece of junk) or a JD 2025R at a lower hp. The goodies: tilt steering, long reach tph control, easy-on PTO.

Ralph

 

[powerscol]

One thing I can suggest is rent the size your think of first. That way you know. Also the rental place may have great sale prices. There are times you can run more than you think. In my case I have a Bobcat CT 235. 34HP with 26.5 at the PTO. I can run a 74" tiller with out issue, and I am at 6000 feet elevation. To me there are two issues when selecting an implement. Lifting it and turning it.

So look around and find a local agg rental place - they can also advise what you can run.

 

[dnw64]

Thanks for the insights.

At this point I'm thinking of getting a 60" finish mower for my GC2300. Continue to use the tiller in spring/fall and snowblower in winter.

Then get a "bigger" tractor with FEL (no FEL on the GC) that I can put a decent sized brush hog on, possibly after renting one if I can find some place that does so (I'm not aware of any within a 1 hour drive). Good points about the weight factor - I noticed the weight of the tiller on my GC when making awkward transitions. I assume this tractor would also be better in the woods (we have 30 acres) with more weight, Ag tires, more ground clearance and no cab. Never mind that I used to run a 2WD 7 HP Wheel Horse in the woods to get my firewood...

 

[BrokenTrack]

There have been some great replies on here, and while I am in NO WAY countering them, it is interesting to note that I am in the exact opposite position. That is I have a smaller tractor then what is ideal. In my case however, having inherited so much implements off my grandfather, father, etc; if I got a much bigger tractor, it would not fit my current implements. It is cheaper for me to stay with a smaller tractor, then to buy a bigger tractor and then try and scale up all my implements to fit it.

 

[dnw64]

Yes, it's good realize that everyone's situation is unique and there is rarely a "one size fits all" solution to every problem.

 

[big bubba]

Is there a post or page anyone could suggest that has basic HP requirements for different types/sizes of attachments?

do you have an owners manual? every kubota i've owned has a section in back that states max size/wt for various implements for a given tractor. then most manu list the pto hp requirement. not a complicated thing.
if you intend to keep your tractor, sure wouldn't exceed those given specs keeping it simple

 

[DieselBound]

I'd say that in general one goes with an implement that's no wider, or just slightly wider, than the width of the tractor. Rakes and blades are an exception. Field cutters also can and should be on the slightly-wider side: with few exceptions it's more about ground speed- one can run a big cutter, but only at slower speeds (talking exaggerated sizing).

I ran a good 6 years with a lightweight 30hp tractor, a Kubota B7800. Unless someone has run one a lot I don't believe that one can really appreciate how much work a smaller tractor CAN do. Another positive for a smaller tractor is that you can often go places where a larger tractor cannot, or should go. My ground is really soft, I don't dare run my NX5510 during the rainy season (other than on established surfaces). My B7800, on the other hand, is more able to get around: of course, I can get it stuck as well as anything.

Loader work and dirt engaging work does require larger tractors.

Identify your needs first. Then size accordingly.