Loader Max shuttle 28

[drajj5]

Have used the little tractor for everything, but found its limits maybe?

Where I live in North Ga, there is nothing but clay underneath the topsoil. I have been trying to enlarge an area for a future prefab carport. The area to be enlarged has been graded level around 10 years ago- a barn was going to go there. Anyway, when it was graded the spot looked like a square box leveled and there was no finish grading around the sides and back of the area. Over the years the sides fell and tapered themselves back to something more like nature intended but, now I need that space back. I used the fel and it did fine with the tapered/loose soil, however when I reach untouched earth the bucket will dig in and not lift or curl the bucket.

So I bought one of those teeth bars to help in breaking up the clay. Do I have tougher/stronger dirt than the rest of you guy's or am I doing something wrong. Loader will lift and curl a bucket of Loose/broken clay fine- just will not breakout unmolested clay/orange dirt.

Just so you guys have something to think about. tractor has never ( bogged down ). In 4wd the tires will in unison- dig to china. kind of feels as though someone turned the pressure relief down on the fel. Do I just have a wimpy Fel? My 8n would lift LOADED tires off the ground, what gives?

 

[RDrancher]

Your loader is fine, you need scarifiers on a box blade, or scarifiers alone. Scarify, then overlap to rip between the lines, then use your FEL to grade it out.

 

[drajj5]

What should I do with the area that I already cleaned out- RD? The place that needs to be widened is almost a vertical wall now. Should I place dirt back against where I dug out, and do what you suggested? what it looks like now is a "Minnie basement" dead level at the front and at the back a 3 or 4 ft dirt wall. each side cut into the hill. I guess I could backfill each side. I am concerned about hitting a root and 'it' dropping me off a now steep bank. I thought that the FEL would be able to dig like your skid steer does. This is Normal? A big track loader made the spot originally. I can get a full bucket it just doesn't want to break it out. Maybe I am asking a little too much for this tractor.

 

[RDrancher]

Hard to say without seeing it but it sounds like you could push the spoils off each side. Tractor loaders aren't know for there breakout power, they're more for moving and loading dirt. If you're trying to dig it out with your bucket on grade (the floor of the "basement), it may be too much to ask. You could try to start your cut, say 6" below the top or so and work your way down. If you can get the bucket teeth to start cutting into the bank, use the curl function to try to break it out. Your curl will typically be stronger than your lift.

Come to think of it, is there any way you can get above the vertical wall and use the weight of the tractor on the bucket edge to break it off?

 

[s219]

Nothing wrong, it's just that front loaders are not meant for this kind of work. In fact, you can damage them if you're too aggressive. I only move loose materials with my front loader bucket. If it's groundwork or grading, I loosen up with my box blade first.

 

[drajj5]

Thanks for your insight, I could go at it from the side and (break) the bank down. That should work to at least re-create the feathered edge to get at it with the box blade. You mention the curl of the bucket- that is what seems to be 'weak' when digging. I can nibble it fine. Tractor feels as though it could do- much more, bucket drives into the ground easily with the teeth installed "difficult task without the teeth". first instinct for me is to Lift the load after the bucket is loaded but does not have the Oomph to do it, so I try to roll the bucket and it is unsuccessful as well. I am forced to back up and try to get a "smaller bite, this works but is slow.
S219- I do expect a lot from my tractor, but it is a tractor, and work is what it is designed for. I am not afraid to push it to it's limits- but not abuse it like those with 'rentals' do.

 

[s219]

Well, just keep in mind the way bulldozers are built for pushing up earth, and notice how that's a lot different than the relatively delicate arms on a tractor's front loader. It's OK to work a tractor, but be mindful of the work it's designed to do.

 

[jimpen]

Many moons ago I bought one of those air inflatable pools that the top ring "floats" on the water. Well that's when I found I didn't truly have any flat large spots near the house.

So I ask my farmer neighbor (25+ years) about him using his IH 45HP tractor with FEL about making a spot. His reply is that he could level out something that had already but cut up, but he couldn't really dig out a spot like that. So when I bought my Max25 I made it a point to buy the backhoe with it.

And the BH has been invaluable for other reasons as well. Such as the former owner used railroad ties as fence posts. I tried once or twice to pull them out with the FEL and a chain. It got the rear tires of the ground but the post barely budged. The BH allows me to knock them around and then pull them out with the added advantage of the weight of the engine is in the front for leverage.

So maybe you want to look at buying a BH attachment or rent one for a day or two.

 

[drajj5]

Jimpen - You are right- back hoes rock!!

I have been to Fla,"where my brother lives" and he has some sort of sandy soil that you can literally dig with your hands...... I am certain that the tractor I own would cut that like hot butter. I was stationed in Va while in the military and the earth is 'rich' and 'rocky'. seems like every time I stuck a shovel in the ground a rock was found. Here, there are few rocks but the ground is so hard in spots that with teeth installed it leaves a rendition or imprint of the bucket design when scraping. Maybe I don't have dirt, just some sort of natural (Mortar).

 

[drajj5]

Ok did as you suggested "Come to think of it, is there any way you can get above the vertical wall and use the weight of the tractor on the bucket edge to break it off?" This method worked great!!!
Still, I wish sometimes I owned a 80hp tractor that is as maneuverable as my Max 28. Guess that there are trade offs to compact size, versatility, and power. I need a bulldozer, skid steer, tractor, and a mower all wrapped up into the smallest package possible.
I can dream right?

 

[RDrancher]

Ok did as you suggested "Come to think of it, is there any way you can get above the vertical wall and use the weight of the tractor on the bucket edge to break it off?" This method worked great!!!

Glad it worked out for you. :thumbsup:

 

[Scaper]

Do you know anyone with a good tiller that you can use on your tractor? When I have to do work like you stated I first till the area deep enough to backfill with crush and run or 57 stone and a load of stone dust to set it up right. You the can use the loader to remove the clay and either back fill around the area or dispose of it somewhere else on the property. Scaper

 

[sdef]

My tractor as configured weighs ~ 7500 pounds, has 45 HP and a 710# rollover box blade. My heavy clay, rocky soil is not hardly touched by the box blade unless I break it up first with the scarifiers. Same thing goes for the bucket with a tooth bar added.

 

[drajj5]

Do you know anyone with a good tiller that you can use on your tractor? When I have to do work like you stated I first till the area deep enough to backfill with crush and run or 57 stone and a load of stone dust to set it up right. You the can use the loader to remove the clay and either back fill around the area or dispose of it somewhere else on the property. Scaper

Scaper- I do know someone who has a tiller, he should let me borrow it. I have a lot of work ahead still to do on the future "RV/Boat/tractor carport " area. I want to create plenty of room now so in 5 years I could make a short wooden lean-too off of one side next to the Pre-fab jobber that will be installed there. The wooden lean-to would house the fourweeler and lawnmower with various gardening tools. The floor will be done as you stated, 57 followed by crush and run....Plenty of spots that I could dispose of dirt all over the property. I am trying to do this thing right - and right now the funds are in from 'Uncle Sam'. burning a hole in my pocket

 

[drajj5]

My Box Blade has scarifiers too- 5 of them. They do a wonderful job of breaking the clay up. I have 57 gravel spread for my driveway and most, if not all of the crush and run somehow disappears after it is spread (1 to 2 years). In those summer days when it is hot and dry, my box blade bounces on the road like a toy. Ground here is like yours "hard as heck". Makes me feel better knowing that even with a BIG tractor such as yours has difficulty in this type of soil. I know that it is tough to work and when wet is like greased snot, But when you get that 'finished' result it stays for a long time.

 

[sdef]

... I know that it is tough to work and when wet is like greased snot, But when you get that 'finished' result it stays for a long time.

Funny. Greased snot is accurate for mine also. My property has been very wet since I started working it in early January and I am unable to use the tractor to its fullest since I am constantly spinning all 4 tires whenever I place any kind of load on the FEL.

 

[Gittyup]

The right amount of moisture content can make it easier or harder to dig too. You want it moist, but not muddy. And yes, a loader is not a bulldozer. Loaders are meant to load not dig. Under ideal conditions you can have some success. Other times, just futile.

Pushing from the top works if you are trying to soften the edge. Might also try a middle buster, or trenching attachment. Pretty cheap and with a few passes will have it broken up pretty deep.